Portland Countryfile


Portland

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The Isle of Portland.

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Remaining staunchly robust, whatever the weather throws at it.

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Home to historic lighthouses,

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one of the largest man-made harbours in the world

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and host to London 2012's Olympic sailing.

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Welcome to Portland.

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For a tiny isle, there's a lot to see,

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and it's a place that many of you wanted us to explore.

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So, here we are.

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Monumental Portland stone.

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It's been quarried here for centuries,

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some say since the Romans.

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It's been used at St Paul's Cathedral, Buckingham Palace

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and even at the United Nations headquarters in New York.

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But today, there are only five working quarries left on the Isle.

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So I will be finding out what happens

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when the quarrymen move out, and the artists move in.

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Tom's got a dilemma on his hands.

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Sky lanterns, for some a charming source of innocent pleasure.

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Others, though, find them guilty of starting fires

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and killing livestock.

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So, should I let this one go? You can find out later.

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And Adam's finding out how to be a dog's best friend.

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My sheepdogs work very hard for me,

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so I need them to be in tiptop condition.

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Today, I'm meeting a dog nutritionist

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to tell me about what I need to feed them.

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If you've got dogs at home, you might want to watch this.

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The Isle of Portland, a tiny gem of land

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reaching out from Weymouth

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five miles into the English Channel.

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Towering limestone cliffs repel the powerful sea below,

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and sitting at its southern tip is a rocky outcrop

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known as Portland Bill.

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And the reason that we've ventured to this tiny island

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is all thanks to you, because a couple of weeks ago,

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we asked Countryfile viewers

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for suggestions of where we should take the programme,

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and Portland inundated our inbox.

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We had endless suggestions of where we should be pointing our cameras.

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And the majority of those e-mails mentioned Portland Bill,

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a place with not one,

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not two,

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but three lighthouses.

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Lighthouses have stood here since 1716, and for good reason.

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This is one of the most hazardous spots on the Channel,

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with hidden sandbanks and competing currents clashing

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to create a treacherous race that can run at up to 10 knots.

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But this constant danger has been dwarfed by recent events.

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The worst weather conditions in living memory

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have seen storms batter this coastline,

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with waves towering 70 feet high,

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stopping shipping in its tracks

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and leaving the people of Portland stranded.

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Around the treacherous Bill, it's the candy-striped lighthouse

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that today warns travellers to steer clear.

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The others were decommissioned more than a century ago,

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but as I'll be discovering, each has a unique tale to tell.

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My first stop is the Old Lower Lighthouse,

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now a bird observatory run by warden Martin Cade.

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-Martin, morning.

-All right, Matt?

-Are you well?

-A bit windswept.

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-It is a bit blustery.

-It's still blowy today.

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So I gather that it's not boats that you're on the lookout for here?

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No. It's a little bit early in the season,

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but I'd be on the lookout for early migrating birds

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before very long.

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Let's see if we can see anything. Like you said, it's very blustery.

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We're looking for sea birds at this time of year,

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things that have come from further north

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that are spending the winter in the English Channel.

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There will be birds like gannets, guillemots, razorbills.

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They'll be going off before long

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to breed all up around northern Britain.

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But this will be the viewpoint before very long

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that we're looking for things like swallows arriving.

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Great place to spot them.

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As the spring migration gets under way, not only swallows,

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but birds like chiffchaff, willow warblers and even hoopoes

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may all head this way,

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heading north to breed from as far away as southern Africa,

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in one of the UK's biggest natural events.

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Portland Bill's position,

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dangling deep into the waters of the English Channel,

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makes it an incredibly important spot for migrating birds

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and keen bird-watchers alike.

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From the bird point of view, it couldn't be in a better place.

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They're coming across the Channel,

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and we're the first place they spot,

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so we're the landfall for them, we're the oasis.

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I guess it means it's better to be watching them from this level,

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-as opposed to being at the top.

-That's right.

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I get visitors who come and think that somehow,

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there's a very large pair of binoculars at the top of our tower.

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-I thought the same thing.

-You're just like the rest!

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How many birds would you expect to see?

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Just in this garden here, it will be in the tens of thousands.

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More species of bird have been seen from this patio

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than probably any other place in Britain.

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It is wonderful to keep that concept of looking out for something.

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Oh, yeah. This is a fabulous viewpoint.

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While lighthouses have for centuries been a welcome sight

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warning of hazards ahead,

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it's claimed that a more recent addition to our skies

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is putting our countryside at risk, as Tom's been discovering.

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Enchanting and romantic, it's becoming a tradition

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to release sky lanterns at new year, at weddings and festivals.

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They can look spectacular,

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like this world-record launch of 15,000 in the Philippines.

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But there's also a darker side.

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These floating, fire-powered lanterns

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have the potential to cause destruction on a huge scale.

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You can buy them for as little as 99p, and once you get the hang of it,

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they're pretty easy to handle and light.

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But some people want them banned

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and believe I certainly shouldn't let this go.

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So let's look at the case for and the case against.

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It's thought that between 3 and 6 million lanterns

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are released into the UK skies every year.

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A handful of them have started fires that caused massive damage.

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This is my caravan compound, or what's left of it.

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In this area, we had about 100 caravans stored,

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and on the night of 24th November,

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a Chinese lantern caused a tremendous blaze.

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Alan Newell's caravan park in Gloucestershire

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was devastated after a sky lantern came down on his land.

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This is what's left. A few chassis and a bit of rubbish.

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A few personal possessions, but not a lot else.

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That's astonishing that 100 or so caravans

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-were reduced to this by a lantern?

-It was terrible.

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100 families were obviously extremely distressed

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that their caravans were completely destroyed,

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with nothing they could save.

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We're looking at in excess of half a million pounds' damage.

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So your advice if someone's thinking of using a lantern?

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Forget it. Forget it. Just don't do it.

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The fire here wasn't simply a one-off,

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and while most sky lanterns pose little danger,

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a tiny number have had a huge impact.

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To find out how easily sky lanterns can start a fire,

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we've enrolled the experts,

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and because we don't want either lanterns or sparks

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going up into the air, we're doing it all inside their firehouse.

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The question here is, if used properly,

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can a sky lantern present a fire risk

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as it returns to earth at the end of its flight?

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So at this point,

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whatever it touches that's flammable will ignite.

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But it's towards the end, the important part.

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When it actually drops down, it will still be very hot.

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So even though the flame is not visible, the heat is still there,

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so whatever it comes into contact with potentially could burn.

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The fire service thermal imaging camera shows just how hot it is.

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In the centre, the hottest part is over 500 degrees.

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That's interesting, because I thought when they fell to earth,

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the fire had gone out, but clearly, that's not the case.

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And as the lantern is dropped onto the straw, sure enough,

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it catches light.

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Now, our test doesn't fully replicate normal outdoor use,

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but of the six lanterns we tried, one did set light to the straw

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and two set fire to their own canopies.

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The paper's gone again.

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You can see how quickly that can start a blaze,

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and it's getting smoky in here,

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so I'll back off and leave these guys to do their job.

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Not sure I want to spend any longer in your firehouse.

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-No, it's not the pleasantest place to be.

-It's making my eyes water.

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Well, I can see, as an amateur, how easily they start fires.

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But as an expert, what are you thinking about this?

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We have real concerns about it, because at the end of the day,

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you're talking about a naked flame that is floating around uncontrolled

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and can land on combustible material.

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The problem with the lanterns is that unlike a firework,

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which goes up and comes straight down, a lantern goes up

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and can drift around on the wind and we don't know where it'll land.

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Phil was in charge when a sky lantern

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started the West Midlands' biggest ever fire,

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destroying 100,000 tonnes of plastic at a recycling plant.

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It took 200 firemen and 35 engines to get it under control.

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What do you think should be done about them?

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We'd like to see them banned.

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We don't want to sound like we're spoiling everybody's party

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but the bottom line is, this is an uncontrolled fire that can land

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and cause a lot of damage, and we have seen that.

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But it's not just the fire risk.

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They can also be lethal to wildlife and farm animals.

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So this field here is some of our grazing.

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And this is the kind of place where we find these lanterns.

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Will Lacey is the seventh generation of his family

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to farm this land in Buckinghamshire.

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The danger to his cattle comes

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when they eat lanterns which have landed in his fields.

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We've had nine die in the period of about 18 months,

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all from similar causes.

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To start with we weren't sure what it was

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and then, working with the vet, we said we'd do a postmortem

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and that's when we started to find the problem with the wires.

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This is one we pulled out of a cow.

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As you can see, it's got two very sharp edges on there.

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If it's not too gruesome, how does the cow actually die as a result?

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So it's inside the cow's gut and then more than likely it's when

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it needs to exert extra pressure, so when it's starting to calve

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then that will dislodge and it will start poking holes in her.

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It won't die from those holes,

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it will die from the infection caused by them,

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so it's a slow and it's a painful death.

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It's not a matter of hours, it might be weeks it's suffering.

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Wire is increasingly being replaced by string in sky lanterns

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but there are still concerns

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that the bamboo frame could injure animals too,

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so farmers, firemen and landowners all have their reasons

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to be against sky lanterns.

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After hearing all that, you might well want me to keep

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a very tight hold of this.

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But, if they're that dangerous, should they be banned?

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I'll be finding out later.

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The Isle of Portland,

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tethered to the mainland by the ever-changing Chesil Beach.

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From above, the landscape looks craggy and weathered.

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Its exposed, hard-bitten edges have a story to tell.

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What makes this place special isn't just the views,

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it's this stuff under my feet, the limestone.

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It's tough, durable, attractive

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and, most importantly here on the Isle of Portland, it's accessible.

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You, the viewer, wanted to know more about it

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so, as ever, your wish is my command.

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The island formed millions of years ago when the sea bed was

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forced up out of the water as the Earth's plates moved.

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This brought limestone to the surface, and it's the Romans

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who are thought to have made the first cuts to get to it.

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Since then, quarrying has been as much a part of this landscape

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as the stone itself.

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Until very recently every building on the Isle

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was made from Portland stone, but its fame has spread worldwide.

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'Local historian Stuart Morris wrote to tell us about

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'one thing that we couldn't miss here - the history of the quarries.'

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Let's start with the famous Portland stone, then. Why is it so famous?

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Portland is lucky in its location

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in that stone could be quarried from the cliff edges

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so it was easy to ship out and transport,

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but it is the quality of the Portland stone.

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It is still reckoned to be

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probably the best building material in the world.

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But it was tremendous effort to extract the stone.

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They had to clear off the overburden, the rubble,

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from the top before they could get down to the workable beds,

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tumble them down over the very steep hillsides,

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right down onto what we call the weirs,

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and then these stones would be roughly shaped

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and loaded onto stone-carrying barges from three or four little piers.

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There's still evidence here, right behind us.

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Yeah, the stone blocks, as you can see, standing there

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would have been swung around and loaded into the barges.

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It was a skilled operation because those barges could easily

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fall to pieces if they hit the rocks there.

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There was a turning point, wasn't there, for Portland stone?

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Yes, that's right.

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The Banqueting House in London was designed by Inigo Jones,

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and he specified Portland stone.

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Sir Christopher Wren saw Inigo Jones's work,

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he investigated the qualities of Portland stone himself

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and realised that this is an ideal building material

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to be a structural element as well as a decorative one.

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So in 1669, after the Great Fire of London,

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Wren embarked on the project which was to make his name -

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rebuilding the majestic St Paul's Cathedral from Portland stone.

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The project provided 35 years of work for the Portland quarries.

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It represented a lifetime's work for many, many quarrymen.

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-How important is it still today?

-It is still very important.

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Obviously it only employs a fraction of the number of people,

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because of mechanisation, but it still engenders

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a lot of pride to the area and the name of Portland stone.

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And so it should.

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Its distinctive grey-white tones can be seen

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in some of the most significant buildings in the UK.

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Not only St Paul's Cathedral, but also Whitehall,

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Regent Street,

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Buckingham Palace

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and even the BBC's very own Broadcasting House.

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Today Portland stone is still big business.

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There are five quarries on the isle, and last year alone

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around 25,000 tonnes were shipped off around the globe.

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However, not all the stone departs these shores.

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This is the Tout Quarry Sculpture Park.

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What was once a tough working quarry

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is now a place of artistic contemplation.

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Opened in 1983 by the Portland Sculpture and Quarry Trust,

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it was the first sculpture park

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to be sited in a disused quarry in the UK.

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Local residents and visiting artists,

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including Sir Antony Gormley, wanted to use this space

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to create, educate and celebrate the brilliance of Portland stone.

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'The weather might have taken a turn

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'but I'm meeting artist Hannah Sofaer for a soggy tour.'

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So, Hannah, I'm a fan of sculpture parks

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but this is the most unusual location for one. Why here?

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Tout is a really inspirational quarry.

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It means "lookout", it's on the edge of the west cliff,

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it's got sea, sky, stone, it's got all the elements,

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and it was bringing people to the site

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rather than the material going away.

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As an artist, what's it like working in a quarry,

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this environment that you can't control?

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Well, it's working with the elements, really.

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You're working with material in its place of origin,

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you're working with natural light, and every time you carve something,

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that area has not been exposed since the beginning of time.

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And this is a really good example, Antony's piece.

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So this is Antony Gormley?

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Antony Gormley carved this in 1983 and it's called Still Falling.

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It's a life-sized figure on the living rock face,

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just where the good building stone is.

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Everything above it is waste, it's been stacked all around here.

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But, you know, it tells you the history of time on this rock,

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it's an original land surface.

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It's been estimated that around a third of Portland's limestone

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has been used up, but here you have a chance to really see its beauty.

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Everywhere you look there are tributes in stone.

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Some are so much a part of the landscape they came out of,

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it's hard to tell if they're natural or man-made.

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Hannah has really inspired me.

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The sun's out and now I want to get my hands on some stone.

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There's a thriving community of sculptors on the Isle.

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Phil Doherty is Portland born and bred.

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By day he works in a sand quarry on the mainland

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and by night he works Portland stone.

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So you're a quarryman and a sculptor. You must pretty much know

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-everything there is to know about Portland stone.

-A reasonable amount.

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Is it hard to work with?

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Depends whereabouts on the island you get the stone from,

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cos it varies in density, so some quarries might be really hard,

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some areas would be a bit softer.

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-So that's just experience, you get to know?

-Yes.

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What kind of stone do you prefer to work with?

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The harder stone, because it holds a better line.

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You get a much better edge on it.

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Your work - some of it's here - is so intricate.

0:18:570:19:00

You start with a circle

0:19:000:19:02

and then you draw 12 evenly spaced points around the outside, then you

0:19:020:19:06

basically just use a straight edge and connect all the dots together.

0:19:060:19:09

-You make it sound so easy!

-Well, it's reasonably easy.

0:19:090:19:13

-Once you've seen someone do it!

-Don't undersell it!

0:19:130:19:15

'OK...let's see if I can crack this.

0:19:170:19:20

'Don't hold your breath.'

0:19:200:19:22

Hold the chisel like that and then you just basically

0:19:220:19:24

-roll your hand round it, not hold it too tight.

-OK.

0:19:240:19:27

Position it at the angle you want and then work a line across there.

0:19:270:19:32

I'm so frightened that I'm going to take a massive chunk

0:19:320:19:35

out of this beautiful stone.

0:19:350:19:38

And this pattern, with you doing it, not with me doing it,

0:19:380:19:42

-will take how long?

-Four hours, maybe?

0:19:420:19:44

With me doing it, I think maybe four days.

0:19:440:19:47

'Working with stone seems to be in the very genes

0:19:480:19:51

'of the people of Portland,

0:19:510:19:53

'and if Phil's skill is anything to go by

0:19:530:19:55

'the love and respect they have for it is monumental.'

0:19:550:19:58

Well, I don't think the professionals of Portland

0:20:010:20:03

have anything to worry about, but it is a lovely experience.

0:20:030:20:07

Sculpted onto the northeast coast of this isle is Portland Harbour.

0:20:160:20:21

The distinctive breakwater that shapes this harbour was built from

0:20:210:20:25

that famous Portland stone back in the mid-1800s.

0:20:250:20:29

It was one of the most expensive building projects of its day,

0:20:290:20:32

but thought to be well worth it

0:20:320:20:35

because this port has played a vital role in our maritime history.

0:20:350:20:39

So special is this harbour that Countryfile viewer Andy Straw

0:20:400:20:44

wanted to show it off.

0:20:440:20:45

For Andy, it's not just an historic site, but his workplace,

0:20:450:20:50

because he is one of the harbour's two tug boat captains.

0:20:500:20:53

-Andy.

-Hello, John. Welcome aboard.

-Good to see you.

-How you doing?

0:20:530:20:57

-Going out today?

-We're going out, and you're welcome to join us.

0:20:570:21:00

'A Portlander born and bred, he's worked this small patch of sea

0:21:000:21:05

'for the last 12 years, and it is his job to know every inch intimately.'

0:21:050:21:09

So what made you become a tug master, Andy?

0:21:100:21:13

Well, it's something I've always wanted to do since I was a child.

0:21:130:21:17

My father, he worked on the tug boats as he was younger

0:21:170:21:21

and I got that from him, really.

0:21:210:21:23

I thought, "One day, I'll be on those tugs," and I am.

0:21:230:21:25

But I never thought I would ever be a tug skipper.

0:21:250:21:28

Nowadays, this is a commercial port, a kind of marine service station,

0:21:300:21:35

repairing and refuelling more than 500 ships a year.

0:21:350:21:39

But from the mid-1800s until 1996, it was a Royal Navy dockyard.

0:21:390:21:45

To me, there's little sign of it on the surface,

0:21:450:21:49

but 150 years of naval might has left its mark

0:21:490:21:52

if, like Andy, you know where to look.

0:21:520:21:55

What's that building over there?

0:21:550:21:57

That building is where they used to test torpedoes.

0:21:570:22:00

-Torpedoes?

-Yeah, yeah.

0:22:000:22:01

They used to, um, fire off torpedoes to test them

0:22:010:22:04

into the Weymouth Bay.

0:22:040:22:06

And then they would monitor them from a large radar to see

0:22:060:22:09

how far of a distance they went with how much fuel they had on them.

0:22:090:22:12

So, really, this was the birthplace of the torpedo, then?

0:22:120:22:15

Pretty much, yeah, yeah. For better or for worse.

0:22:150:22:19

In 1890, the inventor of the modern torpedo, Robert Whitehead,

0:22:190:22:24

began testing his weapons here at Portland Harbour.

0:22:240:22:27

Production reached its peak during World War II,

0:22:280:22:31

a time when this port played a key role in the action, with over

0:22:310:22:35

half a million troops leaving here for the Normandy landings.

0:22:350:22:39

And, of course, the two blocks over there are the Mulberry blocks.

0:22:400:22:44

-From the old Mulberry Harbour?

-That's right, the Mulberry harbours.

0:22:440:22:47

They were used during the D-day landings.

0:22:470:22:49

Three days after the initial Normandy landings,

0:22:490:22:52

two temporary harbours, code-named Mulberry A and B,

0:22:520:22:56

were constructed from massive concrete blocks

0:22:560:22:58

towed across the Channel.

0:22:580:23:00

Although one was soon destroyed by storms,

0:23:000:23:03

the other kept operating for ten months.

0:23:030:23:05

Altogether, 2.5 million men, half a million vehicles

0:23:050:23:09

and four million tonnes of supplies were landed.

0:23:090:23:13

Two of these blocks now sit here, in Portland Harbour,

0:23:130:23:16

as a lasting memorial to that great achievement.

0:23:160:23:20

So what's the job you're about to do now, then?

0:23:210:23:23

We're going to lean onto a vessel just to help them

0:23:230:23:26

whilst they tighten up their mooring ropes.

0:23:260:23:28

They're alongside a berth at the moment.

0:23:280:23:30

Although there is little navy presence here now,

0:23:300:23:32

fleet auxiliary ships still often call in to stock up.

0:23:320:23:36

It's one of these, the 38,000-tonne Orangeleaf,

0:23:360:23:39

that Andy's little tug is helping out today.

0:23:390:23:42

How is it that, really,

0:23:420:23:44

a very small boat like this can boss about a huge tanker?

0:23:440:23:48

It's all in the engines, John. The manoeuvrability, it helps as well.

0:23:480:23:52

And a great deal of skill on your part.

0:23:520:23:54

Oh, of course, there is a little bit of that. Yeah, yeah!

0:23:540:23:58

So you're very gently pushing the ship towards the quay now.

0:23:590:24:03

-How do you know when to stop?

-We know when to stop when we go, "Ugh!"

0:24:030:24:07

Orangeleaf, Wyke Castle. Yes, that's all complete with you.

0:24:090:24:12

Thanks ever so much for that, and we'll see you again.

0:24:120:24:15

With the job done, before we head back to the quayside,

0:24:150:24:17

Andy makes me an offer I just can't refuse.

0:24:170:24:21

-Would you like a play, John?

-Yes, please!

0:24:220:24:24

-Right, OK. At the moment...

-A tug master!

-Yeah.

0:24:240:24:27

-Push it forward. Lightly forward.

-Yeah.

0:24:280:24:31

-Forward.

-But we don't seem to be moving.

-We are.

-Are we?

-Yeah.

0:24:310:24:35

-Oh, good!

-If you move your joystick now to your right-hand side...

0:24:350:24:40

'With Captain Craven at the controls, things quickly get into a spin.'

0:24:400:24:44

This is fun.

0:24:440:24:46

Not in danger of hitting anything?

0:24:490:24:51

-No, you're all right at the moment.

-Just going round and round.

0:24:510:24:54

It just shows how manoeuvrable it is.

0:24:540:24:56

We're doing a full 360 in a very tiny space, aren't we?

0:24:560:25:02

If you want to put some more power on, you'd go round faster.

0:25:020:25:05

Ho-ho-ho-ho! How about that?!

0:25:060:25:09

Buoyed with confidence, I'm soon venturing out of my depth.

0:25:090:25:13

-What about going sideways?

-You want to have a go at going sideways?

0:25:130:25:17

-Yeah, is that...

-OK.

-..an easy manoeuvre or not?

-It can be.

0:25:170:25:19

There's a little bit of a knack to it.

0:25:190:25:22

-Bring the joystick directly towards me.

-Yeah.

-Not too much.

0:25:220:25:25

-Oh!

-Bring it back a bit.

-Right.

0:25:250:25:27

Not too much power. Once you start moving...

0:25:270:25:30

-Like I say, there is a bit of a knack to it.

-Yeah.

0:25:300:25:32

-We're still going round in circles!

-Yeah!

0:25:320:25:34

'Before I get too out of control, the weather, cursing so many,

0:25:350:25:39

'comes to the rescue of a rather relieved Andy.'

0:25:390:25:43

The wind's picking up. So we need to go back to berth.

0:25:430:25:46

-I'd better take it, John.

-You'd better. Hand over to you.

0:25:460:25:49

-Yeah, the wind...

-But that was fantastic.

0:25:490:25:51

That's like a schoolboy's dream. Thank you very much!

0:25:510:25:54

While the sea may have helped put Portland on the map,

0:25:580:26:01

it's also a danger to be navigated with care.

0:26:010:26:04

For nearly 200 years, the higher and lower lighthouses worked in unison

0:26:050:26:09

to guide sailors safely past the notorious waters of Portland Bill.

0:26:090:26:13

In the 1920s, the Old Higher Lighthouse became the home

0:26:150:26:18

of a lady called Dr Marie Stopes,

0:26:180:26:21

a figure who was both celebrated and controversial.

0:26:210:26:25

A champion of women's rights,

0:26:250:26:28

she founded Britain's first family planning clinics.

0:26:280:26:31

From these beginnings, her ideas would change the lives

0:26:310:26:34

of men and women for generations to come, right around the world.

0:26:340:26:38

I'm following in her footsteps

0:26:390:26:41

with current lighthouse owner Fran Lockyer.

0:26:410:26:45

-What was she like?

-A very, very strong, powerful lady.

0:26:450:26:49

She thought it was wrong that women should be burdened

0:26:490:26:52

with maybe 12 children, a child year after year after year.

0:26:520:26:56

So she set about being a pioneer in birth control

0:26:560:26:59

and she was a very, very powerful lady.

0:26:590:27:02

Of course, while she was here, a lot of famous people came.

0:27:020:27:06

George Bernard Shaw, Thomas Hardy.

0:27:060:27:09

There you are, he's outside with his wife and Marie.

0:27:090:27:13

And what was the reason, Fran,

0:27:130:27:15

for all of these very well-known people to come and visit her here?

0:27:150:27:19

She was a very magnetic character

0:27:190:27:22

-and she moved in very aristocratic circles.

-Right.

0:27:220:27:26

Very well known.

0:27:260:27:28

And I expect, really,

0:27:280:27:30

quite admired by an awful lot of people who were influential.

0:27:300:27:33

It was Stopes' ground-breaking books on birth control,

0:27:340:27:38

first published in 1918, that made her a household name.

0:27:380:27:43

Through them, she hoped to empower women.

0:27:430:27:46

They became bestsellers

0:27:460:27:47

and did nothing less than start a social revolution.

0:27:470:27:50

She was certainly very popular with women that didn't want

0:27:520:27:55

to increase the size of their family, so...

0:27:550:27:57

You see, she is talking, really,

0:27:570:27:59

about people who haven't got a lot of money,

0:27:590:28:01

because if they're having very, very big families, it makes them poor.

0:28:010:28:05

So, really, they haven't got a lot of money, so they are going to try

0:28:050:28:08

anything that is not going to cost them a lot.

0:28:080:28:11

But the advice was only for married women.

0:28:110:28:14

Women wouldn't be where they are today without Marie Stopes.

0:28:140:28:18

She made life for women totally different.

0:28:180:28:21

In 1921, she went on to found the UK's first family planning clinic.

0:28:220:28:26

Today, there are more than 600 Marie Stopes clinics worldwide.

0:28:290:28:33

By the time she settled in Portland, she was already notorious.

0:28:350:28:39

Her unconventional life caused a stir amongst the locals.

0:28:390:28:43

She loved to sunbathe. She was a sun worshipper.

0:28:430:28:46

So this was an ideal place, really,

0:28:460:28:48

because you get so much sunshine here on Dorset anyway.

0:28:480:28:51

She used to lie between the boats,

0:28:510:28:52

but there, she used to lie naked, most of the time.

0:28:520:28:55

I do have a photograph of her here with some clothes on,

0:28:550:28:58

which is quite unusual.

0:28:580:29:00

But I guess we wouldn't have one with no clothes on!

0:29:000:29:03

THEY LAUGH

0:29:030:29:04

But Marie Stopes had another passion -

0:29:040:29:06

the ancient landscape of Portland itself.

0:29:060:29:09

Its fossilised Jurassic forests

0:29:090:29:12

drew her into a serious academic piece of work.

0:29:120:29:15

Stopes was also a renowned palaeobotanist,

0:29:170:29:20

which basically means that she was a plant fossil hunter.

0:29:200:29:23

Now, she was so taken with all of the finds made in Portland's

0:29:230:29:27

quarries and cliffs that she set up a museum in 1930 to display them.

0:29:270:29:31

And we've got just a few of the artefacts from the museum here.

0:29:310:29:34

David, you're going to talk us through them, aren't you?

0:29:340:29:37

Let's start with this book, because that in itself is fascinating.

0:29:370:29:40

This book is the original manual

0:29:400:29:43

that Marie Stopes wrote in her own hand.

0:29:430:29:45

If I open it up, it's very fragile.

0:29:450:29:47

Here we have item number one, a toe bone of a megalosaurus.

0:29:470:29:51

-And this is what we have here.

-This is it? Right.

0:29:510:29:53

This is actually the fossilised toe bone here of this vast creature,

0:29:530:29:57

a sort of mini Tyrannosaurus rex.

0:29:570:29:59

It was one of the many fossils that we actually have on the island.

0:29:590:30:02

If we went down the register, you'll find item number three -

0:30:020:30:06

"Found in the quarry near Portland Bill," where we are today,

0:30:060:30:09

"Presented by Dr Marie Stopes" is one of the cycads,

0:30:090:30:12

which is her big interest.

0:30:120:30:14

They looked like very large, pineapple-type plants

0:30:140:30:18

and they grow to enormous size.

0:30:180:30:20

By preserving finds like these,

0:30:200:30:23

Stopes highlighted Portland's importance on the Jurassic Coast,

0:30:230:30:27

a place where fossils can date back up to 250 million years.

0:30:270:30:32

She recognised that quarrying acted like an archaeological dig,

0:30:320:30:37

exposing ancient finds on a vast scale.

0:30:370:30:40

Dr Marie Stopes died in 1958 at the age of 77.

0:30:410:30:46

The work she started preserved an important part of Portland's past,

0:30:460:30:51

while her legacy changed millions of lives across the world.

0:30:510:30:54

And there was life in her till the end.

0:30:560:30:58

She had a thing with a much, much younger man and she stopped it

0:31:000:31:05

because she didn't think it was quite nice.

0:31:050:31:08

He apparently was in his 30s, but it is still a huge age gap.

0:31:080:31:11

-40 years is a big age gap.

-Right.

0:31:110:31:14

Especially with her at 72!

0:31:140:31:16

We'd better get out of here, Fran,

0:31:160:31:17

cos people are going to start making comparisons!

0:31:170:31:20

I don't think so. I don't think so.

0:31:200:31:22

I'm a lot older than she was!

0:31:220:31:24

Every year, millions of sky lanterns light the skies over Britain.

0:31:270:31:32

But are they safe?

0:31:320:31:34

Tom has been investigating.

0:31:340:31:36

Sky lanterns have been blamed for serious fires

0:31:380:31:41

and deaths of farm animals.

0:31:410:31:43

There are growing calls for them to be banned.

0:31:430:31:46

But could a ban on lanterns be the thin end of the wedge?

0:31:460:31:49

After all, fireworks contain explosives

0:31:490:31:52

and lead to serious injuries every year.

0:31:520:31:55

And then, of course, there are the old favourites - rockets.

0:31:560:31:59

They shoot up into the sky.

0:31:590:32:02

Who knows where they'll land?

0:32:020:32:03

And they are pretty scary for animals, too.

0:32:030:32:07

Even helium balloons, so innocently released by children,

0:32:070:32:11

once they come down to earth, they can be eaten,

0:32:110:32:14

and that can be deadly to animals and sea life.

0:32:140:32:17

There have been calls for all of these

0:32:180:32:21

to be banned at one time or another,

0:32:210:32:23

so should sky lanterns be singled out?

0:32:230:32:26

Members of the public we spoke to have mixed views.

0:32:260:32:29

I think a ban is quite extreme. Maybe regulated a little bit more,

0:32:290:32:32

but I think it's just harmless fun.

0:32:320:32:34

If used in the right areas, there's nothing wrong with it.

0:32:340:32:37

We think they're dangerous, because there's lots

0:32:370:32:41

of thatched properties around here and I think they could cause damage.

0:32:410:32:46

I don't think they should.

0:32:460:32:48

If they catch on fire, then, yeah, fair enough, but I quite like them.

0:32:480:32:53

Are fireworks banned for the same reasons?

0:32:530:32:56

The fact that millions are launched in the UK every year

0:32:560:32:59

would indicate that many of us don't think they should be banned.

0:32:590:33:03

So what do people who sell them say?

0:33:030:33:05

A sky lantern was blamed for a huge fire at a recycling plant

0:33:050:33:09

in Smethwick last year.

0:33:090:33:11

Nearby shopkeeper, Surinder Josan, stopped selling sky lanterns

0:33:110:33:15

out of sensitivity, but says they are no worse

0:33:150:33:18

than many other everyday items.

0:33:180:33:20

We tried them a few times, had lots of fun.

0:33:210:33:24

We had a little birthday party, set loads and loads off,

0:33:240:33:27

and they went right up high in the sky

0:33:270:33:29

and they're really, really good fun.

0:33:290:33:32

But, obviously, there has been a few incidents,

0:33:320:33:35

and I do stress that of all the ones that are sold worldwide,

0:33:350:33:38

it's just a few incidents.

0:33:380:33:40

Certainly shouldn't be a reason to ban them totally.

0:33:400:33:42

Fireworks are dangerous.

0:33:420:33:44

We sell a lot of other inflammable things, like gas for blowlamps

0:33:440:33:47

and things like that. We sell gardening chemicals.

0:33:470:33:51

They are also dangerous if they're put in the wrong hands,

0:33:510:33:54

used inappropriately. So where do you stop?

0:33:540:33:57

Rather than banning them, Defra has recently met with retailers

0:33:570:34:00

and opponents of sky lanterns with a view to drawing up

0:34:000:34:03

a code of conduct which may govern their sale and safety standards.

0:34:030:34:07

That has been welcomed by Alan Hawkins

0:34:100:34:12

from the British Independent Retailers Association.

0:34:120:34:15

I would prefer a code of conduct than to an outright ban.

0:34:170:34:20

I personally like sky lanterns.

0:34:200:34:23

I think they are an alternative to fireworks.

0:34:230:34:25

A firework will go off very quickly,

0:34:250:34:27

a sky lantern is a much more tranquil thing, it goes up slowly,

0:34:270:34:30

and you can have, you know, 20 or 30 going off at the same time

0:34:300:34:33

if you're planning them right.

0:34:330:34:34

So, they are a nice alternative to fireworks.

0:34:340:34:36

As long as there is a code of conduct

0:34:360:34:38

but not an outright ban, provided that is what the bodies decide,

0:34:380:34:42

is the right way forward. I think that is the way it should go.

0:34:420:34:45

But some aren't waiting for the new code.

0:34:450:34:49

Tesco and Poundland recently stopped selling sky lanterns.

0:34:490:34:52

In other parts of the world, they have been banned altogether,

0:34:520:34:56

including Denmark, the Netherlands and Hong Kong.

0:34:560:34:58

In the UK, 22 councils have banned them from their land

0:34:580:35:02

and even some festivals, like Glastonbury, have outlawed their use.

0:35:020:35:06

So, is the idea of a legal ban here still a possibility?

0:35:060:35:09

Well, in England, Defra has held meetings with opponents

0:35:090:35:13

and supporters of sky lanterns and they commissioned a study along with

0:35:130:35:18

the Assembly here in Wales, where it's an even hotter topic.

0:35:180:35:22

That study said that while the risk to farm animals and nuisance

0:35:240:35:27

from litter did not warrant action, there was a significant fire risk.

0:35:270:35:33

In Wales, that has led to government calls for a voluntary ban

0:35:330:35:36

on lanterns, but for Welsh Assembly minister, Alun Davies,

0:35:360:35:39

making their sale illegal is still a step too far.

0:35:390:35:43

The report did not come back with the sort of evidence

0:35:430:35:47

that we would require at the moment to institute a ban in Wales.

0:35:470:35:51

But it's not something which is forgotten, it is

0:35:510:35:54

something which remains under consideration at the moment.

0:35:540:35:57

But I understand this report talked about a significant fire risk.

0:35:570:36:00

I'm wondering what more evidence you need than that to say,

0:36:000:36:03

"These are dangerous, they should be banned"?

0:36:030:36:05

I think there is significant anecdotal evidence

0:36:050:36:08

of the potential dangers of sky lanterns.

0:36:080:36:11

It's another thing altogether to say, right, this is the risk

0:36:110:36:14

that we can understand or we can describe or we can tabulate,

0:36:140:36:17

if you like, and on that basis, we would go forward to legislate.

0:36:170:36:21

In the meantime, I have written to all local authorities in Wales

0:36:210:36:24

and said to them, "I want you to start considering the impact

0:36:240:36:27

"of sky lanterns on the countryside

0:36:270:36:29

"and I want you to ban sky lanterns voluntarily from your own property."

0:36:290:36:34

Is that not just passing the buck down to those politicians

0:36:340:36:37

rather than taking the responsibility yourself?

0:36:370:36:39

I don't think it's helpful for politicians to react

0:36:390:36:42

to every challenge by saying, "We'll legislate here, legislate there.

0:36:420:36:46

"We'll create a ban here, we'll have more regulation somewhere else."

0:36:460:36:49

I would prefer people worked together

0:36:490:36:51

to try and resolve these sorts of problems.

0:36:510:36:53

The minister says there's not enough hard evidence for a ban,

0:36:530:36:57

and that's the problem.

0:36:570:36:59

No-one can say if the chance of an individual sky lantern

0:36:590:37:02

causing an incident is one in 100 or one in a million.

0:37:020:37:06

So, harmless fun or a flying firelighter?

0:37:070:37:11

We began this programme asking if I should let this go.

0:37:110:37:15

Well, what do you think?

0:37:150:37:16

We'd like to know if you are for or against a ban

0:37:160:37:20

via the Countryfile website.

0:37:200:37:22

The stony Isle of Portland is a geological paradise.

0:37:280:37:32

It sits smack bang in the middle of the Jurassic Coast.

0:37:320:37:35

At its heart lies a rich seam of limestone,

0:37:370:37:40

and it is this that has shaped the lives of the people living here.

0:37:400:37:43

Now, you might think, with all the quarrying that's going on here,

0:37:460:37:49

the wildlife would struggle to find a home.

0:37:490:37:52

But, in fact, the exact opposite has happened.

0:37:520:37:54

Quarrying has actually created homes.

0:37:590:38:02

Hundreds of species of plants and animals

0:38:020:38:05

rely on the limestone grasslands of Portland.

0:38:050:38:08

It might be a rotten old day,

0:38:080:38:09

but it all helps to produce this special habitat.

0:38:090:38:12

'I'm meeting Dorset Wildlife Trust officer Sam Hamer to find out more.'

0:38:140:38:19

I know it might take a bit of imagination on a day like today,

0:38:190:38:21

but trust me, in the summer, this is just awash with colour.

0:38:210:38:25

The nature of the quarrying itself has meant

0:38:250:38:29

that the landscape has been completely changed.

0:38:290:38:31

And we've got here really unique, special,

0:38:310:38:35

undulating south-facing slopes which wouldn't normally be here.

0:38:350:38:38

And they provide that niche habitat.

0:38:380:38:41

What species are unique to this location?

0:38:410:38:44

Across the island, we've got things like Portland hawkweed,

0:38:440:38:48

maidenhair fern and spleenworts, and those are very special plants.

0:38:480:38:51

-Some of them are only found here.

-And why are they only found here?

0:38:510:38:55

Where we've got the Portland stone, the limestone, that soil chemistry

0:38:550:38:59

gives rise to a very special kind of limestone grassland.

0:38:590:39:03

And it's that, including the grasses, the mosses and the liverworts,

0:39:030:39:08

that are the building blocks of that habitat

0:39:080:39:11

that then underpins so many other things.

0:39:110:39:14

And eventually, it all comes back to this magical Portland stone again,

0:39:140:39:17

-doesn't it?

-Absolutely. Yeah, absolutely.

0:39:170:39:19

But this landscape is under threat from invasive species.

0:39:240:39:28

Things like cotoneaster, buddleia

0:39:280:39:30

and sycamore all outcompete the precious limestone grasses,

0:39:300:39:34

placing the whole habitat at risk.

0:39:340:39:36

The Portland Living Landscapes Project aims to restore 500 acres

0:39:390:39:44

of limestone grassland, but with such a huge area to survey,

0:39:440:39:47

how on earth do you keep track of the progress that you are making?

0:39:470:39:50

Step forward Sam and some big boys' toys.

0:39:500:39:54

They've fixed a high-definition mini-camera onto a zip wire

0:39:550:39:58

using kids' building blocks, providing a unique view

0:39:580:40:01

and sense of the quarry space.

0:40:010:40:03

You've got a camera fixed onto a toy.

0:40:050:40:08

-SAM LAUGHS

-Why?

0:40:080:40:11

It's to help us monitor our progress

0:40:110:40:13

and the work we're doing within the landscape.

0:40:130:40:15

We've done so many fixed-point photography things

0:40:150:40:19

and we've done a lot of monitoring quadrats and they are all great

0:40:190:40:22

for getting that scientific data that we need.

0:40:220:40:24

But we're trying to capture the effort

0:40:240:40:27

within the context of this open, dynamic landscape.

0:40:270:40:30

-So how long has the high wire been in place?

-About two years now.

0:40:300:40:33

And if you showed me footage from two years ago, what would I see?

0:40:330:40:37

What would be different?

0:40:370:40:38

Well, it was just full of cotoneaster.

0:40:380:40:41

As an invasive species, it just covers like a blanket.

0:40:410:40:44

So everything it smothers out is shaded out from the light

0:40:440:40:47

and outcompeted and then lost.

0:40:470:40:48

-And you've cleared it all?

-Sort of 98% there.

0:40:480:40:52

-Who had the Lego set?

-I did.

0:40:520:40:54

I knew you were going to say that!

0:40:540:40:56

We experimented a few times.

0:40:570:40:59

It's blown up a number of times and left the wire,

0:40:590:41:02

but we've got to the stage with it

0:41:020:41:04

and it's producing the results we need.

0:41:040:41:06

So this little toy is going to help to manage

0:41:090:41:12

this very important habitat for years and years.

0:41:120:41:16

Off you go.

0:41:160:41:18

To infinity and beyond!

0:41:200:41:23

We Brits have a love affair with our animals.

0:41:300:41:33

In fact, we love them so much,

0:41:330:41:34

they are often thought of as part of the family.

0:41:340:41:37

Looking after one animal can be hard enough,

0:41:400:41:43

but when you're surrounded by them,

0:41:430:41:45

it really is a full-time job, as Adam knows all too well.

0:41:450:41:48

This week, it's the dogs that need his attention.

0:41:480:41:51

In your bed, in your bed. In your bed.

0:41:510:41:54

When I come down into the kitchen in the morning,

0:41:540:41:56

I'm already surrounded by animals.

0:41:560:41:58

It's not just farm animals, but pets,

0:41:580:42:00

and I keep the three most popular pets there are in the country.

0:42:000:42:03

And you'd be surprised what's number one.

0:42:030:42:05

But coming in at number three are cats.

0:42:050:42:08

This one under here is Frank, and then Widget's sitting over there

0:42:080:42:12

by the Aga, keeping nice and warm.

0:42:120:42:14

They're lovely pets, but they're also good at catching mice and rats.

0:42:140:42:17

And in the UK, there's 8.5 million cats, so they are pretty popular.

0:42:170:42:23

And then coming in at number two are the dogs.

0:42:230:42:25

And there's a similar number of dogs as there are cats, but slightly more.

0:42:250:42:29

And I've got Boo and Dolly here, who are house dogs,

0:42:290:42:33

and then of course the working dogs outside.

0:42:330:42:35

And, believe it or not, the number one most favourite pet

0:42:350:42:39

in the UK I have lurking in the corner of my kitchen, which is fish.

0:42:390:42:43

And there's around 20-25 million fish kept in ponds

0:42:430:42:48

and the same in fish tanks in people's houses.

0:42:480:42:51

And they're very easy to look after. That's them fed.

0:42:510:42:54

Wish all my farm animals were that easy! Come on, dogs. Come on, Dolly.

0:42:540:42:58

Come on, then! Here.

0:42:580:43:01

'But regardless of the statistics,

0:43:010:43:03

'the trusty old dog is my favourite by far.'

0:43:030:43:06

HE WHISTLES Here. Dolly.

0:43:060:43:08

Millie. Millie! Up, up!

0:43:090:43:11

Little trick dog.

0:43:110:43:14

Come on, then, Pearl.

0:43:140:43:15

It's clear that people absolutely love dogs, and why wouldn't you?

0:43:150:43:18

They are such loyal, fantastic creatures

0:43:180:43:21

with so many different uses.

0:43:210:43:22

Millie, come here!

0:43:220:43:24

And they're definitely my favourite farm animal. I absolutely adore them.

0:43:240:43:28

Boo gets very jealous when I give the other dogs attention.

0:43:280:43:30

Boo, I love Millie. DOG BARKS

0:43:300:43:33

She's my favourite one!

0:43:330:43:36

HE LAUGHS

0:43:360:43:38

Oh, I love you too! Go on, then!

0:43:380:43:41

'Research suggests that dogs first became our friends in the ice age,

0:43:460:43:49

'tamed by hunter-gatherers to help with hunting

0:43:490:43:53

'or protection against predators.

0:43:530:43:55

'It's their intelligence and ability to learn that's made them

0:43:550:43:57

'such useful animals.'

0:43:570:43:59

HE CALLS OUT AND WHISTLES

0:43:590:44:02

'And working dogs still play an important role today.

0:44:020:44:05

'Life on the farm would be extremely hard without them.'

0:44:050:44:09

Sit!

0:44:090:44:10

You can't really replace a working sheepdog with a man or a machine.

0:44:100:44:15

Really because they've got this ancient hunting instinct

0:44:150:44:18

that we're controlling to help them round up the sheep.

0:44:180:44:21

HE WHISTLES Bring them out! By!

0:44:210:44:24

Our working collies live in the kennels,

0:44:240:44:26

but they are warm and dry for them to lie at night, and, really,

0:44:260:44:30

like a machine, what you fuel that machine with, it's a bit like a dog.

0:44:300:44:34

What you put inside it is what you get out,

0:44:340:44:36

and I want my animals to be healthy, strong, fit and working well.

0:44:360:44:40

And, in exchange for their hard work, I give them good quality food.

0:44:400:44:45

'Their diet is really vital, but with so many options on the market,

0:44:450:44:49

'how do we know we're getting it right?

0:44:490:44:51

'I've invited dog trainer Richard Clarke to the farm,

0:44:510:44:54

'to get the low-down on dog nutrition.'

0:44:540:44:56

-Richard, hi, good to meet you.

-Very nice to meet you.

0:44:560:44:58

Good array of dog food you've got here.

0:44:580:45:01

Food plays such a big part in our relationship with training dogs.

0:45:010:45:05

The first pet foods came about about 1860.

0:45:050:45:08

A guy called James Spratt got off the boat from America.

0:45:080:45:11

He was an electrician and he saw the dogs

0:45:110:45:14

scavenging on the dockside, saw an opportunity there to create

0:45:140:45:18

some food, for rich English gentleman for their shooting dogs,

0:45:180:45:22

and that's where the first processed dog food came about, really.

0:45:220:45:25

So tell me a little bit about them.

0:45:250:45:27

Like a dog meat that you get from a tin, what is that like?

0:45:270:45:31

This is traditionally the food that we've been using

0:45:310:45:35

for the past 40, 50, 60 years, so it appears as meaty chunks in gravy,

0:45:350:45:39

so it looks really appetising and a lot of the dogs will like it.

0:45:390:45:42

But appearances can be deceiving.

0:45:420:45:44

The first thing is, we look at the back of the tin.

0:45:440:45:47

How much gravy would you expect to find in that?

0:45:470:45:49

-10%, 15%?

-80%. So actually,

0:45:490:45:52

when you look at that tin of dog food, it seems like good value -

0:45:520:45:55

50p for a tin, but the reality is that

0:45:550:45:58

only the top 20% is actual food matter.

0:45:580:46:01

Should we be shopping around and choosing some of the other tins?

0:46:010:46:05

Undoubtedly, there are some foods that are better than others,

0:46:050:46:08

and some dogs, particularly older dogs, prefer wet food.

0:46:080:46:11

Dogs are omnivores, they eat meat and vegetables.

0:46:110:46:14

So a good mixed diet like this would work, wouldn't it?

0:46:140:46:17

It looks great, doesn't it? Nice bit of bone there, a bit of calcium.

0:46:170:46:21

A bit of red stuff, assume that that's meat.

0:46:210:46:24

You've then got a nice bit of vegetation.

0:46:240:46:27

If you argue the point that the dog is supposed to be colour-blind,

0:46:270:46:29

why is it lots of fun colours?

0:46:290:46:31

This is designed for the person buying it,

0:46:310:46:33

not for the animal that's going to consume it.

0:46:330:46:35

And all of the colours and additives tend to be artificial.

0:46:350:46:39

I've got a couple of cans of pop here.

0:46:390:46:41

The same additives and preservatives that are in that

0:46:410:46:44

are in some of these foods, yet we give them to our dogs

0:46:440:46:47

and then expect it not to have a knock-on effect

0:46:470:46:50

to their temperament and behaviour.

0:46:500:46:52

So what you are saying, then, is if you got a dog that's a bit bonkers

0:46:520:46:55

and charges around and is always on the go in the house,

0:46:550:46:58

it may be related to its diet.

0:46:580:47:00

Yeah, it will promote things like jumping up at lightshades,

0:47:000:47:03

pulling curtains down, barking at the front door.

0:47:030:47:07

Of course, there's lots of components that add to that,

0:47:070:47:09

but certainly it could be the fuel behind the behaviour.

0:47:090:47:13

But what about my working dogs?

0:47:130:47:15

I feed them a mixed dry food, and they seem to do well on it.

0:47:150:47:19

But what will Richard make of it?

0:47:190:47:21

The first thing we look at is

0:47:210:47:23

it's got lots of gluten, maize and cereal.

0:47:230:47:26

You could argue that it's almost like a breakfast cereal.

0:47:260:47:29

The problem is when we start looking at wheat and corn,

0:47:290:47:32

these aren't highly digestible foods for dogs,

0:47:320:47:35

so often you'll see that the dogs have large stools,

0:47:350:47:38

they'll be passing frequently throughout the day,

0:47:380:47:40

because the dog can't metabolise the food.

0:47:400:47:42

So what about if we hark right back to the wild dog,

0:47:420:47:46

the wolf, eating raw meat? Is this something we should be feeding them?

0:47:460:47:50

Although they enjoy a high protein and calcium-based diet,

0:47:500:47:54

flesh and bone, they do need a certain amount of roughage,

0:47:540:47:57

vitamins, so it's really difficult

0:47:570:47:59

to find that balance in a raw food diet.

0:47:590:48:02

It can be a good thing, but it needs to be done properly.

0:48:020:48:05

So to clarify, then, I want something with natural preservatives,

0:48:050:48:09

no additives, good meat content of a single meat,

0:48:090:48:12

gluten-free,

0:48:120:48:13

but going to the supermarket is a bit of a minefield, isn't it?

0:48:130:48:17

It's about balance. The cheaper the food, the cheaper the ingredients.

0:48:170:48:22

Just look at the label. Go by the order of contents.

0:48:220:48:26

Look for something that has got a named meat first up.

0:48:260:48:30

If it's got cereal on it, I would suggest perhaps avoid it.

0:48:300:48:33

And for my working dogs outside, just give them

0:48:330:48:36

a little bit of a higher protein?

0:48:360:48:38

Yeah, and you can add that protein yourself.

0:48:380:48:41

Any good-quality complete food, to be honest,

0:48:410:48:43

-will serve you well.

-There you go, Dolly. What do you reckon?

0:48:430:48:46

As a farmer, I always try to do the best by my animals,

0:48:480:48:51

and hopefully Richard's expert advice will mean

0:48:510:48:54

a happy and healthy life for all of my dogs.

0:48:540:48:56

Heel.

0:48:580:48:59

Millie! Heel.

0:49:000:49:02

I'm exploring the tiny Isle of Portland

0:49:080:49:11

off the south tip of Dorset.

0:49:110:49:13

It's not the most hospitable of coastlines,

0:49:150:49:17

and there's not a bit of sand in sight.

0:49:170:49:19

There might not be a beach, but there are beach huts.

0:49:210:49:24

Apparently, these are quite glam on the inside.

0:49:240:49:27

They look a bit like garden sheds to me.

0:49:270:49:29

There are more than 300 of these little huts dotted around the Isle,

0:49:330:49:37

and hut designer Richard Burgess has built around a third of them.

0:49:370:49:42

Time for a nosey, I think.

0:49:430:49:45

-Hi, Julia.

-Hi, Richard, nice to see you.

-And you.

0:49:490:49:51

A welcome break from the weather that's just come back in.

0:49:510:49:54

-I guess it happens like this here, doesn't it?

-It does.

0:49:540:49:57

-It turns, as you say, just like that.

-Very, very cosy.

0:49:570:50:00

A little bit more than a garden shed.

0:50:000:50:02

Absolutely, yes. I think the owners wouldn't be too pleased

0:50:020:50:05

if you called it a shed.

0:50:050:50:07

How much would the owners have paid for this?

0:50:070:50:09

-Getting on towards £25,000.

-Goodness me!

0:50:090:50:13

Traditionally, what were these huts used for?

0:50:140:50:17

Recreational purposes by the workers of the quarries.

0:50:170:50:20

A lot of houses on Portland were back-to-back, no gardens,

0:50:200:50:25

so it was a nice bit of breathing space, if you like,

0:50:250:50:27

-to bring out their families and have a cup of tea on a nice day.

-Lovely.

0:50:270:50:31

We asked you where in the British Isles

0:50:390:50:41

you'd like to see featured on Countryfile.

0:50:410:50:44

And you chose here, the Isle of Portland,

0:50:440:50:47

so we've been discovering what makes this land so special,

0:50:470:50:50

how the seas have shaped its history.

0:50:500:50:53

I'm now going to be heading up 153 steps to the top of

0:50:530:50:57

the Portland Bill Lighthouse, to meet Larry,

0:50:570:50:59

its last lighthouse-keeper.

0:50:590:51:01

It was opened in 1906,

0:51:040:51:05

replacing Portland's old Higher and Lower Lighthouses.

0:51:050:51:09

Although he's not been here quite that long,

0:51:110:51:14

Larry has got 44 years

0:51:140:51:15

and 23 different lighthouses under his belt.

0:51:150:51:18

-Larry, good to see you.

-And you.

0:51:200:51:22

I'm slightly out of breath, I have to say.

0:51:220:51:24

Yeah, you've climbed 153 steps to get to us, so welcome, Matthew.

0:51:240:51:28

But before I get the chance to relax,

0:51:280:51:31

Larry's got me limbering up for more lighthouse aerobics.

0:51:310:51:35

Show me the pinkie-winkie.

0:51:350:51:36

-Right, pinkie-winkie, hook it onto there, look.

-Yeah.

0:51:360:51:40

And pull towards me.

0:51:400:51:41

-Goodness me.

-There you are, Matthew, you are moving 3.5 tonnes of lens.

0:51:430:51:50

-It's actually floating on the original mercury from 1905.

-Wow!

0:51:500:51:54

I've just something the weight of a car with my little finger.

0:51:570:52:01

It just goes to show that up here, a little goes a long way.

0:52:010:52:05

In fact, the huge bulb creating the light works off the same power

0:52:050:52:09

as your kitchen kettle.

0:52:090:52:11

How far will that beam travel?

0:52:110:52:13

On a good night, you can see it in excess of 25 miles.

0:52:130:52:17

I've had people come here in the summer months saying

0:52:170:52:19

they've been to the Channel Islands,

0:52:190:52:21

coming back on the ferry into Weymouth

0:52:210:52:23

20 minutes after leaving the Channel Islands,

0:52:230:52:25

although they can't see the light, they can see

0:52:250:52:28

-the beams crossing the horizon.

-Wow!

0:52:280:52:30

Like all Britain's lighthouses,

0:52:320:52:34

nowadays, Portland Bill is fully automated.

0:52:340:52:37

'But Larry thinks I've been such a promising pupil

0:52:370:52:39

'that for one night only, he's going to let me light up the Bill.'

0:52:390:52:43

-Here we go.

-I thought the switch would be inside.

0:52:450:52:48

No, what's go happen now, you're covering a photo-electric cell,

0:52:480:52:51

-which is going to say it's dark.

-Oh, I'm with you.

0:52:510:52:54

Now, the light should be on, Matt, so if you want to go in there,

0:52:540:52:57

it should be coming on and starting to glow.

0:52:570:53:00

Yeah. She's on.

0:53:000:53:02

This is definitely the highlight of my Portland adventure,

0:53:020:53:06

and just what Captain Baker needs to lure in his trusty first mate.

0:53:060:53:11

Now, the phone reception on the Isle is a little bit dodgy

0:53:120:53:15

to say the least, but I said to Julia,

0:53:150:53:17

"I'll send you some sort of signal." I think she'll have got the message.

0:53:170:53:20

Very predictable!

0:53:200:53:23

Now, I suppose he wants me to go all the way to the top,

0:53:230:53:26

because he's a bit tricky like that.

0:53:260:53:28

Here we go then.

0:53:280:53:30

Coming!

0:53:300:53:31

I thought she'd be here by now. That's almost it for this week.

0:53:330:53:35

Thank you for all of your suggestions.

0:53:350:53:38

We'll be visiting many more in the coming weeks.

0:53:380:53:40

Ah! Goodness me, it's about time!

0:53:400:53:42

Portland was a fantastic suggestion.

0:53:420:53:45

You suggesting me going to the top of here, not such a good suggestion.

0:53:450:53:48

Yeah. Well, according to Larry, the lighthouse-keeper -

0:53:480:53:51

-watch your head - this really gets the puddings pumping!

-Does it?!

0:53:510:53:54

Well, I like to get my puddings pumping. Excellent news!

0:53:540:53:58

-Consider it done.

-That is it. Next week, we're going to be in Kent.

0:53:580:54:01

I'm going to be on Elmley Marshes, which was once a thriving village,

0:54:010:54:05

and is now a spectacular wildlife haven.

0:54:050:54:07

And Ellie is going to go behind the scenes at a medieval palace.

0:54:070:54:11

-Right, that's it.

-See you later.

-How do we get down from here?

0:54:110:54:14

-Well... You want me to carry you, don't you?

-Yeah.

0:54:140:54:17

-Thank you.

-See you later.

-Bye! See you!

0:54:180:54:20

-Now, don't drop me.

-Right.

-Because you're dropping the crown jewels!

0:54:200:54:24

-I'm actually going to go down backwards, so watch out!

-Oh, no!

0:54:240:54:27

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