Yr Wral Iolo yn Rwsia

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-I'm on a journey that will present

-many challenges along the way.

-A journey across

-the largest country in the world...

-..which covers 10% of the globe.

-I'm in Russia.

-I've already visited western Russia

-and climbed the Caucasus.

-I'm now travelling east...

-..towards the wild Ural mountains.

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-The Urals

-The never-ending

-rivers and forests...

-..and the enchanting mountains

-of the Urals...

-..offer a perfect home to

-wolves, wolverines and brown bears.

-These mountains

-separate Europe from Asia.

-They offer a paradise

-to hundreds of elks.

-I can't wait to find out more

-about the place.

-Eurasia is one of the biggest

-land masses in the world.

-It has an ancient history...

-..which stretches back

-over 250 million years.

-Today, the boundary

-between Europe and Asia...

-..is one of Europe's

-largest wildlife areas...

-..with forests

-stretching over 1,200 miles.

-Little wonder that

-it's a hotbed of wildlife activity.

-I still have a few more miles

-to travel before reaching...

-..the middle of the bush.

-I'm travelling once again,

-after flying from Moscow to Ufa.

-It takes another seven hours

-on the road to reach the Urals.

-This is very different

-to the Caucasus.

-There's more water, there are

-more trees, there's more greenery.

-I'm here in the summer.

-In winter,

-a carpet of snow covers the land.

-That makes it very difficult

-for animals to find their food.

-Through the thick snow...

-..these elks start their journey

-to new lands and search for food.

-Eating birch branches on the way

-gives them the strength...

-..to complete their long journey.

-With temperatures plummeting

-to minus 30 degrees Celsius...

-..it's a terribly difficult journey.

-DISTANT POPPING NOISES

-The cold causes the trees

-to literally explode.

-This causes an incredible symphony

-in the forest.

-The elks bicker more and more

-in the cold weather.

-Our wildlife camera crew

-have spent weeks filming them.

-They have seen the elks

-inflicting pain on each other...

-..with their sharp hooves.

-Food is scarce, and the land

-has already been grazed.

-The elks have competition.

-This brown bear is also hungry

-and eyes the elks.

-The elks have spotted the bear.

-They can use their long legs

-to flee through the snow.

-The elks are left alone

-to proceed on their long journey.

-By now, over a dozen elks

-have started their annual journey...

-..to the highlands

-to search for food.

-The bear has little hope

-of catching them.

-Walking through the thick snow

-is too difficult for its heavy legs.

-Before long, it will rest.

-It searches for somewhere

-to hibernate for the winter.

-The northern lands of the Urals...

-..are made up of desolate land,

-swamps and pine forests.

-It will be spring soon and the

-layers of thick snow will melt.

-The first sign of spring is the

-black grouse's courtship display.

-The male circles the female...

-..trying to make an impression

-with its unique clucking sound.

-Often,

-dozens of males circle the hen...

-..but today,

-this cockerel has very few rivals.

-However, there is another enemy

-on the horizon...

-..one which is far more dangerous -

-a wolverine.

-The wolverine

-loves to feast on birds.

-Fortunately, the hen notices

-the predator just in time.

-The wolverine

-will have to feast elsewhere.

-The wolverine only weighs 20kgs...

-..but it's the largest member

-of the stoat family.

-It's a powerful creature

-with large paws and sharp teeth.

-The forest deer

-are well aware of this.

-They are often hunted by wolverines.

-The deer are safe this time.

-I'm in a warden's truck on my way

-to the Shul'gan-Tash nature reserve.

-After a seven-hour journey...

-..both of us are glad

-to reach our destination.

-This is Bashkortostan.

-The elks have now returned

-to the lowlands...

-..and the brown bear

-has awoken from its hibernation.

-The simplicity of life here

-strikes me immediately.

-The people are self-sufficient...

-..since they live in such

-a rural location far from anywhere.

-Every time I go away, people think

-I stay in five-star hotels.

-That's not the case.

-I'll be staying in this hut tonight.

-My toilet is a hole in the ground

-over there.

-The big advantage

-is being able to stay...

-..in the heart

-of the nature reserve.

-I'm looking forward to a good

-night's sleep after a long journey.

-I'll then be setting off

-to roam on the Ural mountains.

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-In the morning mist,

-after a peaceful night's sleep...

-..I have my first taste

-of the Ural mountains.

-I'm in awe of all the wild flowers

-and colourful creatures around me.

-In the middle of summer,

-when there's very little rain...

-..even I could cross

-the Belaya river behind me.

-It's one of the park's

-primary rivers.

-In early spring,

-when the mountain snow melts...

-..the current is so strong...

-..the park's largest animals

-have difficulty crossing it.

-At this time of year, the elks

-travel down to the lowlands...

-..where they're sure to find food.

-To reach the lowlands, they travel

-for days under difficult conditions.

-This is the last river

-this elk will have to cross...

-..before reaching its journey's end

-to rest a while over the summer.

-The river is more of a threat

-than it was before.

-The water is deep and the current

-is dangerously strong.

-This elk appears to be

-holding its ground...

-..but every year, many elks drown.

-It's too good an opportunity to miss

-for watching predators.

-This wolf waits patiently.

-Nearby, a brown bear

-killed a tired elk days earlier.

-It's returned to its prey.

-Using its powerful paws,

-it roams across the swamp.

-Bears tend to bury their prey...

-..to ensure that ravens

-don't steal their treasure.

-Our camera crew has spent weeks

-tracking these animals.

-We know that the wolf has been

-following the bear for some time...

-..in the hope of some easy pickings.

-Slowly, the bear reveals its prey.

-Finally,

-it can enjoy its tasty feast.

-Watching the bear feasting

-is torture for the wolf.

-It can do nothing but sleep.

-Silently,

-from the other direction...

-..a second wolf slopes into view.

-Two against one

-offers some hope for the wolves.

-However, the plan only acts

-to infuriate the bear.

-The wolves have to retreat at pace.

-The bear isn't ready

-to share its food today.

-Here, in the Shul'gan-Tash

-nature reserve...

-..the forests cover 90%

-of the nature reserve.

-Within the forests,

-there are rivers, streams and pools.

-Despite the presence of so much

-wildlife in the middle of summer...

-..these pools

-remain rather colourless.

-However, at the beginning of spring,

-it's a different story.

-One creature in particular,

-the marsh frog...

-..brings an incredible bright colour

-to these pools.

-At the end of April, the marsh frogs

-are a light blue colour.

-The male frogs

-search eagerly for a mate.

-It's dangerous for other amphibians

-to enter the pool...

-..even the wart frog.

-While the toads mate

-in the spring...

-..bears mate in the autumn.

-The male bear has to mate

-more than once with the female bear.

-Only after mating for the first time

-does the female start to ovulate.

-The foetus stays in the same place

-until the female hibernates.

-Once she is asleep, the foetus

-plants itself in the womb and grows.

-After six to twelve weeks...

-..a cub is born and stays close

-to its mother throughout the winter.

-This couple will stay together

-for a fortnight before separating...

-..when the mating cycle

-will turn once more.

-Before that, the Ural forests

-can be a very noisy place.

-Europe's largest primitive forest

-can be found in the northern Urals.

-The Pechora river flows through it.

-The river's main tributary

-is in the Komi Republic...

-..high up in the mountains.

-This is Manpupuner -

-the little mountain of Gods.

-Up to 50 metres high, these columns

-of limestone are shrouded in legend.

-These are The Seven Strong Men.

-Supposedly, they were the brothers

-of a beautiful girl...

-..coveted by a cruel, rich man.

-As he turned violent...

-..the girl's beauty escaped into the

-mountains with her seven brothers.

-Here, they fought relentlessly

-against their sister's pursuers.

-When the girl

-pleaded for a miracle...

-..she and her brothers

-froze into rocks.

-The columns are the only

-remaining evidence of the legend.

-Back in the lowlands

-of Shul'gan-Tash...

-..I'm making my way

-through the thick forest.

-Almost 200 different species of

-birds nest in this park.

-That list includes birds of prey...

-..such as the vulture,

-the golden eagle and the kestrel.

-The bird of prey which has adapted

-most successfully in its habitat...

-..and the one which was named

-after the mountains...

-..is the Ural owl.

-It's the same size as a buzzard.

-It preys on small mammals and birds.

-It takes advantage of this

-thick forest for nesting...

-..but it hunts across the open areas

-which are packed with mice.

-The time has come

-to search for prey.

-Mice aren't on the menu today.

-The two chicks are hungry.

-The female owl's responsibility

-is to feed the chicks.

-It's a busy time for her

-since the chicks are so greedy.

-The toad is swallowed

-in one mouthful.

-These are five-week-old chicks.

-They will soon leave the nest.

-The chicks can't fly yet...

-..but one has found a way

-to climb the tree using its wings.

-From now on, the chick

-will be fed outside the nest...

-..if it manages to reach the top.

-Under the watchful eye

-of its mother...

-..it must find a better way

-to reach its parent.

-The tree trunk is easy to climb

-at the moment.

-These are the chick's first steps

-towards a new chapter in its life.

-Today has been a huge challenge

-for the young owl.

-Soon, it will go its own way

-to explore the Ural forests.

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-I'm travelling across

-the Ural mountains in Russia.

-I'm still in

-the Shul'gan-Tash nature reserve.

-From the wild fields

-to the numerous rivers...

-..this area is home

-to all sorts of creatures.

-When we think of the mink

-in Britain...

-..we think

-of a destructive, alien creature.

-It came originally from America.

-But the Ural mink

-is a very different animal.

-It's a native animal and

-an important member of its habitat.

-The future of the European mink

-is under threat.

-Very few are left.

-A small group

-still lives in the Urals.

-This European mink

-is looking for a safe shelter.

-She will soon have young of her own.

-She has to prepare

-for this important occasion.

-High above, a storm is approaching.

-The site of the Seven Brothers

-is transformed...

-..into a more dramatic scene.

-The rain also hampers my journey.

-One of the greatest problems when

-you're filming in the mountains...

-..is the changeable weather.

-It was sunny 15 minutes ago.

-Then the clouds gathered overhead.

-It's raining heavily.

-There's thunder and lightning.

-There's nothing to do

-but sit here...

-THUNDERCLAP

-..and wait for it to pass.

-We return to our lodging to shelter.

-The animals are used to being out

-in the changeable weather.

-The shelter provided by the trees

-and a warm coat keep the bears warm.

-The rain clears

-as quickly as it arrived.

-This must be a relief

-for the young chick.

-The mink is about to give birth.

-The first is born effortlessly...

-..as the mink chews

-through the umbilical cord.

-It's tiring work

-and more are on the way.

-More than one young mink

-has been born.

-Hearing a noise outside...

-..the mother ensures

-her new arrivals are kept safe.

-Over the next few weeks, she will

-have to care for the little ones.

-Up in the forest,

-the two chicks have left their nest.

-They enjoy the feast

-provided by their mother.

-One chick can eat

-up to three meals a day...

-..which keeps the mother busy.

-On the other side of the forest...

-..a male elk

-has smelt something interesting.

-A female elk is nearby but she shows

-no interest in him at the moment.

-In the autumn, some months away,

-their mating season will begin.

-Her young calf is thirsty.

-The calf will suckle

-up to eight times a day...

-..about a litre

-and a half of milk in total.

-That's enough milk for now.

-Its mother needs to rest.

-Eating the nearby branches gives the

-mother energy to care for her calf.

-The male elk

-is still showing interest in her...

-..but the female

-shows more interest in the calf.

-The mother is busy

-cleaning herself...

-..while the calf chews some branches

-like its mother.

-The male gives up for the day.

-Further north,

-wild deer can be found.

-During the summer,

-they favour the swamps...

-..since the light breeze keeps

-the insects and mosquitos away.

-The wolf has followed the deer in

-the hope of catching a young calf.

-The adults are alert

-to the danger and they flee.

-Determined, the wolf follows them

-deep into the forest...

-..and the chase continues.

-Back on the riverbank,

-I'm in search of the mink.

-The mother has moved the little ones

-because they're growing.

-They're five weeks old

-and their eyes are open.

-In addition to their mother's milk,

-they also eat some prey.

-It's a busy time for the mother as

-she works hard to feed her family.

-Using her teeth,

-she manages to paralyze a roach.

-She stores her catch until later.

-The mink has been hunted for years

-for its fur in Russia and Europe.

-Today, it has a new enemy -

-the American mink.

-Traditionally, the American mink

-was bred for the fur market.

-As some escaped, they destroyed

-the population of European minks...

-..due to their ferocity.

-This European mink

-is battling to catch more fish...

-..but she might have to settle

-for just one today.

-The young minks appreciate

-the effort and enjoy their feast.

-Further downstream,

-the wolverine hides his pantry.

-Today, it is halfway

-through a deer carcass.

-A Siberian magpie

-has discovered the deer...

-..and feasts on the carcass.

-The wolverine looks worried.

-The last thing it wants is a family

-of birds stealing its catch...

-..but the magpie refuses to leave.

-The wolverine decides

-it's no longer a problem.

-It uses its sharp teeth

-to break the bones.

-The mink keeps busy by hunting

-for food and raising her young.

-While suckling,

-one of the little ones escapes.

-Venturing outside

-without its mother...

-..could be a costly mistake

-for the little one.

-The mink licks the bellies of her

-little ones to help their digestion.

-Suddenly,

-she realizes one is missing.

-It appears that another one

-has escaped...

-..since only three remain...

-..but the mother is probably

-moving her young to a bigger home...

-..and the others

-are meant to follow her, one by one.

-Before long, they'll reach

-their new home on the riverbank.

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-From the air, it's possible

-to see the Belaya river...

-..winding its way through

-Shul'gan-Tash nature reserve.

-The reserve was established in 1986.

-It covers an area

-of 200 square kilometres.

-It's relatively small when compared

-to other nature reserves in Russia.

-A lot of work is being done

-to safeguard Shul'gan-Tash's future.

-Back on the road, I'm on my way to

-meet the nature reserve's director.

-I love the fields of wild flowers.

-I want to know if Russians

-appreciate the natural world...

-..which surrounds them

-and see the need to safeguard it.

-Mikhail Kosarev tells me how

-people's attitudes have improved...

-..towards nature and

-the nature reserve in recent years.

-There is still room for improvement.

-More needs to be done

-to raise people's awareness.

-Hunters remain a threat

-to the nature reserve's wildlife.

-There is another reason why

-the Shul'gan-Tash nature reserve...

-..is so important to Russia.

-The forests provide a home

-for a very rare creature.

-I'm on my way to meet two brothers

-who keep an old tradition alive.

-More importantly,

-they work with the nature reserve...

-..to safeguard the future

-of a particular type of bee.

-The tradition of bee-keeping was at

-its strongest in the 18th century.

-By the 20th century,

-the tradition almost disappeared...

-..because of farming

-and deforestation.

-As a result,

-the Burzyan bee is very unique.

-The Shul'gan-Tash nature reserve is

-the only area where it can be found.

-Shall I carry this?

-Shall I carry this?

-

-Yes.

-Do we go up to the woods?

-Where there are open areas

-in the forest...

-..the fields are covered

-with flowers.

-I recognize some -

-the hay rattle and the woundwort.

-They attract millions of bees.

-The locals are well aware of this

-and take full advantage.

-I ask the brothers how their

-interest in bee-keeping began...

-..and where exactly

-they learnt the skill.

-The eldest brother tells me how his

-father and grandfather taught him.

-The interest has continued

-in the family.

-He says that people weren't the

-only ones who like collecting honey.

-Bears also collect it.

-The bears can be a problem.

-There is a system in place

-to safeguard the bees.

-Very few bears visit the area...

-..since the forest

-is too close to the road.

-Tell him

-he's a braver man than I am!

-The brothers show me

-how they collect the bees...

-..but I didn't expect

-such a physical method.

-The fire is supposed

-to stop the bees stinging.

-The smoke gives the impression

-of fire in the forest...

-..so the bees don't feel

-under threat from animals or humans.

-As a result,

-they are less likely to sting.

-I'm glad I'm not the one

-taking the risk.

-The Burzyan bee is different

-to a common bee in two ways.

-As well as being darker, it can

-also withstand cold temperatures.

-It's renowned for its tasty honey.

-In Moscow,

-a kilogram of this golden honey...

-..can sell for over 200.

-I hope it doesn't cost me as much.

-Spasiba.

-Really wild honey.

-Mmm.

-That's very, very good. Very good.

-That's lovely.

-It's the first time I've eaten honey

-straight from a wild beehive.

-Wonderful.

-I love seeing old traditions

-like this being kept alive.

-I'm even happier with a bellyful

-of honey...

-..just like a brown bear.

-This brown bear

-is searching for honey.

-It's ready to mark its territory.

-By rubbing against the tree,

-its fur sticks to the trunk...

-..letting others know

-that this is its territory.

-The bear is too heavy

-to climb the tree...

-..but the promise of golden honey

-is too much of a temptation for it.

-Nearby, a female bear and her cub

-are also tempted.

-Stepping in to the bear's territory

-is a brave move...

-..but the cub

-can easily climb the tree.

-The female hopes this will act

-as insurance for her.

-The cub must ensure that the nest,

-which weighs 200kgs...

-..doesn't fall on its head.

-With the promise of honey...

-..more bears have gathered below.

-They hope the young cub's work

-will bear fruit.

-Skilfully, the cub uses its

-sharp teeth to release the beehive.

-The bees aren't happy.

-The bears have to be careful.

-The smell of the honey

-is too much for them...

-..and the threat of being stung...

-..is worth the risk.

-The battle begins -

-who can eat the most.

-The cub released the beehive...

-..but it will be the last one

-to sample the honey.

-This is the order of the forest.

-The landscape which stretches

-across the southern Urals...

-..is covered in birch trees,

-especially near the swamps.

-Siberia is located to the east.

-From the air...

-..you can easily see the boundary

-between Europe and Asia.

-Deep in the forest,

-I'm heading for the swamps...

-..to discover more

-about one particular creature.

-This stream flows straight down

-from the mountain.

-The water is so clean and clear.

-It's full of little insects.

-I'm surrounded by swamps.

-There are midges,

-horseflies and mosquitos.

-It's not a place for people

-but it's the perfect habitat...

-..for an unique animal.

-It's a member of the mole family.

-It spends most of its life

-underwater.

-It's the Russian Desman.

-It's so rare, this is the only place

-you'll find it in the world.

-The Russian Desman

-is a very strange-looking creature.

-It lives in a hole

-accessible underwater.

-The fur on its nose is an indication

-that it's partially blind.

-Unlike a mole,

-a Desman likes to swim.

-It's been hunted

-almost to the point of extinction.

-Only 25,000 exist -

-all in south-west Russia.

-Almost 200 live in this area.

-It eats insects and crabs...

-..as well as fish and amphibians.

-Sometimes, it catches a snail

-and uses its two top teeth...

-..to crush the shell.

-Old fossils suggest that Desmans

-once lived in Britain.

-It enjoys wallowing

-in the muddy waters of the Urals.

-The colours of the forest

-are so striking when the sun is out.

-What surprises me

-more than anything...

-..is the greenery and the different

-shades of green I've seen here.

-Light green, dark green

-and everything in between.

-To see the forest at its best,

-you have to visit in autumn.

-When leaves start to fall, the elks

-prepare for their mating season.

-Before long, the male elks will

-fight each other to secure a mate.

-This young elk has wandered

-too close to an older elk.

-The older elk wants to prove to the

-young one who is king of the forest.

-Elks rarely fight.

-The performance of the older elk...

-..is enough to frighten

-the young one away.

-This journey to the Ural mountains

-has been a real eye-opener.

-I've enjoyed seeing

-the size of the forests...

-..packed with creatures which

-haven't been seen in Britain...

-..for over a thousand years.

-The fields have reminded me

-of my childhood...

-..walking through fields

-covered in flowers...

-..butterflies, grasshoppers

-and all kinds of insects.

-It's made me realize

-what we've lost back home.

-What stays with me

-more than anything else...

-..which is the case

-every time in Russia...

-..is the immensity of the country.

-I am very envious of the space

-these people have.

-S4C Subtitles by Simian 04 Cyf

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