Episode 22 Landward


Episode 22

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Hello and a very warm welcome to Landward, your weekly guide to the

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working world of the Scottish countryside. In a moment we'll be

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finding out why Scotland punches above its weight in the potato

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industry. But first here's what else is coming up on the programme: Sarah

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explores the culture of the Highland travellers. It was fine when the

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weather was good, but when the weather was bad it was a pretty

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tough life. Nick begins a new series on foods

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linked to specific locations. Apparently this is where the real

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Bridies come from? That's right. The Forfar Bridies. The real Forfar

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Bridies. And I complete my journey down the

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River Clyde. The last of a long line and many folk have generations of

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memories sailing down the water to the resorts on the Clyde in their

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heyday. Every autumn there is a flurry of

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activity in our fields as the potato crop is gathered. It is a hugely

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important industry for Scottish farmers who grow potatoes for seed

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and consumption. For hundreds of years, the humble tattie was the

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staple of the Scottish nation, feeding everybody from crofters to

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factory workers. In recent years, our love affair has diminished as

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consumers went in search of low carb alternatives. But the potato

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industry is fighting back. I met up with Scotland's potato ambassador,

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Peter Grewer, the man who's charged with promoting potatoes across the

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nation and who needs them every single day. Potatoes are a massively

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important crop the Scottish agriculture. We are growing - in old

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money - about 66,000 acres, 26, 27,000 hectares. That is over a

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million tonnes of spuds. We are growing about 22% on average of the

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growing crop in Britain. When you figure we've only got about 10% of

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the population, we are punching above our weight. Why is that? Why

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is Scotland so good at growing potatoes? A lot of it is climate,

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our landscape and soil suits it. We have a very temperate climate, our

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summers aren't too hot and we have ample rainfall. We have long, summer

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days. We have harder winters which stops the spread of disease and

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viruses. We're well suited in Scotland to producing high quality

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potatoes. The Scots connection with potatoes went beyond the dinner

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plate. As up until not so long ago, generations of schoolchildren took

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to the field every October in the tattie holidays to take part in

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howking. It's changed a lot since I was

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howking tatties when I was young. I've got harvesters now, self

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propelled harvesters that can lift 20 acres in one day, which is four

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or 500 tonnes of potatoes in one day from one harvester. They come into

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cold storage, so we have stores that will hold 3000 tonnes in wooden

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boxes and crates and keep them temperature controlled through the

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winter. Held in a big fridge basically, at three degrees. We can

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supply the market for 12 months of the year with Scottish potatoes.

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What's going on here as it still looks quite labour-intensive? These

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are your tattie graders doing a sizing job. We can spread them into

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three or four different sizes. The pickers are picking out any obvious

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defects they can see, any stones or earth that has got through the

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harvesting process. When is the big uptake in demand for Scottish

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potatoes? It is weather-related. If you get a cold snap, and we have had

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a couple of hard winters, we see demand going up. People want a nice,

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warm baked tattie and a hearty soup. And at Christmas time everyone likes

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roast tatties for their Christmas dinner. We have got some

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newly-lifted tatties in front of us. Peter, what have we got? We have

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three different varieties. This is the King Edward. Perfect for baking,

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lifted out the fields two or three weeks ago. A wee bit of butter,

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that's all you need. Look at that, lovely. Ambassador, what does that

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mean? It's through the Potato Council. There are ten ambassadors

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across Great Britain. Of which I am the sole one for Scotland. It is to

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provide the link between potato grower and the consumer, the

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purchaser of potatoes. Has the tattie suffered heavily because of

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things like the Atkins diet, carbohydrate was the difficult one?

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It's not just diet, over the last 40 to 50 years, people's diets in

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general have changed. The potato is not the villain of the piece, it has

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the ability to be the saviour. It is a complex starch and carbohydrate

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which is what the body needs for its energy. Even without the skin, they

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are still very nutrient dense. More potassium than bananas, rich in

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folic acid. Lots of fibre. Naturally fat-free. What is this one? This is

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the rooster. The red-skinned rooster. This is a great variety of

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spud. A fluffy interior, but the flavour with this one really comes

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out. As a nation hopefully we are starting to eat more potatoes again

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and recognise the health benefits of the potato. We are eating them on

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their own with a wee bit of butter. You can't do that with a plate of

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pasta or a bowl of rice. But you can do it with a tattie. That is the

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beauty of it. And there's not a lot you can argue with that. And, we've

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had lunch with the ambassador. Fantastic.

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Scottish cuisine has seen something of a revival in recent years and

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recipes have travelled far and wide. But some traditional dishes have

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never left and have become synonymous with the place they were

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invented. Over the next few weeks Nick will be going in search of

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Scottish towns that give their name to a type of food. This week he's in

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Forfar. Arbroath has its smokies, Selkirk

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has its bannocks and Aberdeen has its rowies. The mention of some

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towns in Scotland brings to mind particular foodstuff. But, have you

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ever thought why? Well, I am about to find out. The Angus town of

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Forfar, Royal borough and traditional market town, serving

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surrounding farmland. When you mention Forfar, you think bridie.

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With its origins surrounded in mystery, I have come to one of the

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two rival bakeries in Forfar who still produce authentic bridies.

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Hello. Karen. Nick, how are you? I'm very good, very good. Pleased to

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meet you. Apparently this is where the real bridies come from? That's

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right. The Forfar bridie? The real Forfar bridies. What makes a real

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Forfar bridie? Do you want to come through to the bake house and I'll

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show you how they are made. Fantastic. No problem, this way.

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Obviously we make the dough first. The dough is made here. They bring

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it up here. So it is a beef filling? Yes, stake. Where is that made? Up

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at the table here. And this is all hand done? All hand done here. And

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this has been going on for how long? Since 1893. And has the recipe

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changed? No, not at all. They said it was made for the bride's meal, so

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hence the horseshoe shape. So obviously, a meat bridie would

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probably more expensive in those days and it's for good luck, and

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that would be why they only had it at weddings. Karen, how many bridies

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would you sell of a day? Probably between four and 500. And then on

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Saturday, may be over 1000. It is a lot busier the Saturdays, the Forfar

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day for the bridie. ??WHIT What a fantastic old oven. How old is it?

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1920 it went in. You still use it today? Everyday, yeah. Does it make

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a difference? Yes it does, you get good soul in the bridies. Perfect.

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Let's see the soul of the bridie. Yes. They look delicious. There you

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go. Thank you so much for giving me an insight into something that is

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ancient and still survives today. I'm sure more people need to know

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about this. Yes. According to the 1929 cookbook, A Scot's Kitchen, the

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bridie recipe concludes, "bake them in a quick oven for half an hour and

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out they come, golden, dappled beauties fit for a king's supper". I

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don't know about a king, but... More than fit for a chef.

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Still to come: I complete my journey down the Clyde where the river meets

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the sea. In my eyes it ends at the end of the river channel at

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Greenock, at what we call the number one bouy, which is the last or the

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first bouy of the river channel. Here in Scotland the proud culture

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of travellers is celebrated in story and song. Sarah has been to the

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Highland Folk Museum to meet a storyteller who spent her childhood

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summers on the road in Caithness and Sutherland.

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Up until the Second World War tents like this one at the Highland Folk

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Museum were a common sight. The travellers who lived in them made

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their living on the road. When the schools broke up at Easter time, we

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would be away and we did a circuit right round the coast of Sutherland

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and Caithness. As far west as Ullapool.

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The Stewart family travelled the Highlands for generations. Essie's

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grandfather was a tinsmith and her mother hawked goods door to door.

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Did you enjoy it as a child, the travelling lifestyle? I did, yeah.

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With hindsight, I did. It was hard, you know. I would be lying if I said

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otherwise. It was fine when the weather was good, but you know, when

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the weather was bad it was a pretty tough life. Although the traditional

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traveller way of life all but vanished with the motor car, their

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ancient storytelling tradition is still celebrated today.

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Essie's grandfather Ally Stewart, was one of the greatest Gaelic story

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tellers of the 20th century. His stories were recorded by the School

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of Scottish Studies shortly before his death in 1968.

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He learned his first story when he was seven. That was the Ocean story

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from his mum. That was the first story he recorded for the School of

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Scottish Studies and it was the first story I've ever told in

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public, you know. So, it's a story I'm particularly fond of.

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How important is where the stories? Were they told on a regular basis?

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Every day. Every day. When I was little I loved listening to my

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grandfather telling his stories. You know, the older I got, I realised

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how precious these stories were. He didn't know this value of the

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stories, he didn't know how precious they were. Or the legacy that he

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left behind. SHE TALKS IN GAELIC.

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Essie is now the custodian of her grandfather's stories and passes

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them on to the next generation in the original Gaelic as well as

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English. The children have absolutely loved working with Essie.

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She came in and she told them stories, told them how people use

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the environment and superstitions and things. Then she got them to

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tell their own story. They were all probably a bit apprehensive. They

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haven't done something possibly as creative as this before and using

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elements of stories from such a well-known storyteller. After

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writing their stories, they are now quite competent storytellers, and

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that is another technique Essie was sharing with them as well. That it's

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not just writing and creating your story, it's the way you tell people

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the stories and pass them on to future generations. The storytelling

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tradition of the Gaelic travellers in the Highlands stretches back

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hundreds, maybe even thousands of years. This makes it one of the

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oldest folk traditions in Europe and keeping it alive in the 21st century

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is a challenge. Is it a difficult job to do? To be a tradition bearer,

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yes it is. Because I try and tell my story is the way that I heard them,

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the way that I heard my grandfather tell them. But, he is a hard act to

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follow. He was the master, I'm still learning.

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Now if you have a comment you want to make about anything you see on

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the programme, or maybe you have an amazing story to tell, then drop us

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an e-mail. The weather here is a bit breezy - bracing, you might say. So

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to find out the prospects for the weekend and beyond, it's over to

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Christopher Blanchett for the Landward weather forecast.

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Many of us saw plenty of sunshine today. Further north it was cloudy.

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Tomorrow, high pressure continues to stay in charge but although it is

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largely dry, cloudy and a bit grey. They could be mist and fog patches

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to start through the central belt. The cloud will thin and break at

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times so brighter skies come through. They breeze across the far

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north of the country. Around five to seven Celsius. On the whole, it is

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dried, fairly cloudy. Across the far north-west into the Hebrides and

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Northern Isles, the chance for light rain and drizzle. If you are walking

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or climbing, across the western ranges it is dried. Winds from the

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north-west around 50 miles an hour. Writer skies in towards the

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south-west. -- 15. Fairly dry and cloudy, but across Angus and towards

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the border hills, a chance for some brighter skies. Good visibility and

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in the East, it is a west to north-westerly. The rest of the

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afternoon, evening and overnight, very little in the way of change. At

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times the cloud will thin and break to let patchy frost developed in

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places and mist and fog patches to form. A breeze across the far north

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of the country. Inland it will be chilly, down close to freezing.

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High-pressure stays with us as we had to Sunday. Things not really

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changing. Largely dry and settled and largely cloudy. The best of any

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brighter skies probably through the Southern highlands and towards the

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south-west. For Orkney and Shetland, brighter but cooler here. For many

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it is about the five to six Celsius mark. As we head towards Monday,

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very little in the way of change. Largely dry and cloudy. One to

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showers down western side of the country. A change as we head towards

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Tuesday. The centre of high pressure begins to pull away and this will

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let the weather front to work its way in and bring outbreaks of rain

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towards us. In the north-west of the country to the start of the day and

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heading towards the south of the country in the afternoon. Through

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towards the middle of the week, back to the same. Largely dry and cloudy.

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One or two showers in the West but temperatures perhaps into double

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digits for most of us. Today I am in the heart of Glasgow

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where the banks of the Clyde have been transformed from industrial

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heartland into a 21st-century urban landscape.

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Despite the futuristic holdings on this part of the river, the Clyde's

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ship building heritage is never far away. Here at the site of the John

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Brown shipyard in Clydebank, the Titan crane has been transformed

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into an industrial monument. Imagine the view from the top? It's pretty

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good. The Titan crane is unique because it is the first of its type.

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It was the first electric crane to be built anywhere in the world.

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Ultimately, there were 11 of them build on the Clyde. 60 in total

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worldwide. But the one you are standing on is the first and is a

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magnificent piece of engineering. In 1913, believe it or not, three

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quarters of a million tonnes of ships left this river. That is an

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incredible figure which has never been equalled by any other

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shipbuilding river anywhere in the world. How important is it that the

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Titan crane on Clydebank has been retained? It is one of the very few

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things left of the old John Brown shipyard. The only other part of the

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yard that still survives is one of the slips where the ships were

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launched from. It is the most important one of the five the yard

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actually had. Because from that particular slipway the Queen Mary

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was launched in 1934. The Queen Elizabeth in 1938 and the QE2 in

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1967. For the next part of my journey and

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following in the footsteps of a generation of Clyde-siders I'm

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heading down the latter on board the Waverley, the last oceangoing paddle

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steamer in the world. These ships have ploughed these waters for many

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years and even the first steamships ploughed these waters in 1812. Do

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you think the Waverley has a special place in the heart of Glaswegians? I

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would like to think so, yes. It is the last in a long line and many

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folks, generations have memories of sailing down the water to the

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resorts of the Clyde in their heyday from Victorian times to more recent

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times, 50s, 60s and up through the 70s to now, which we try to carry on

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that tradition. How important was the trip down the water for people

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from Glasgow and the surrounding areas? It was very important. The

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traditional holiday if you like, what something the workers of the

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city looked forward to. It got them clear of the city smog and into the

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fresh air of the coast. What do you feel about the fact that the Clyde

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is no longer full of ships? There is obviously a nostalgia for an era

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past when there was a lot more ships here. But it's still a working

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river. Cargo still comes and goes, there's still shipyards building

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ships. Long may that continue because it is very important to the

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west of Scotland. Where does the river officially end. In my eyes it

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ends at the river channel at Greenock, at what we call number one

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buoy which is the last or the first buoy of the river channel and from

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there you're out into the more open waters of the estuary and the Firth

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beyond. SHIP'S HORN BLASTS.

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We have passed the number one boy and my epic journey down the mighty

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River Clyde now is sadly at an end. A thoroughly enjoyable, but at time

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energetic trip from source to sea down the River Clyde. And next week

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we'll continue out to sea as we all head for Mull for a special

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programme exploring the island's industries and wildlife as well as

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following the action on the Mull Rally. So join us for that at the

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same time next week, Friday night, 7.00pm on BBC Two Scotland. In the

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meantime, from all the team, thanks for your company. Bye for now.

:23:34.:24:45.

Friday night fright night, they are looking to avoid an upset. But Tonga

:24:46.:24:54.

beat Scotland last year, and France in the World Cup. This is a team

:24:55.:24:56.

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