Episode 23 Landward

Hello and a very warm welcome to the stunning bay on Mull. With the

eagles and seas teeming with marine life, this island really is a Mecca

for wildlife tourists. From the picturesque seafront to the

rugged hills of the interior, there is much to delight any visitor.

But this is a working landscape too. Mull is the fourth largest island in

Scotland and home to nearly 3,000 people.

Dougie and I will be finding out how farming, forestry and tourism play

an important part in island life. While I'll be meeting the brave or

some might say crazy drivers who race around mull's twisty roads in

the rally. With the exception of the rally

drivers, most tourists are attracted to Mull because of the peace and the

quiet. I've estimated 350,000 people visit

Mull every year and more say they are here for the amazing scenery,

the tranquility and the wildlife -- most say. A survey by the RSPB found

that almost a quarter of all visitors come specifically in the

hope of seeing a white tailed sea eagle and, with up to 15 breeding on

the island, they've got a good chance.

What with whales, dolphins, sales, otters and all kinds of bird life to

be found either on or around Mull, it's no surprise that theual's

become an incredibly popular wildlife watching destination.

I'm on my way to glen gorm at the north of the island. -- Glengorm.

It's a prize-winning estate. They have their own wildlife project to

tap into the wildlife-watching market. Here on the West Coast of

Scotland, it's very difficult to make an estate of this size, buy a

bull without having to fund it from elsewhere, so we have tried to

diversify as much as we can to make a complete business. The wildlife

project is something that we started the beginning of this year. We are

providing for our visitors a knew yike wildlife experience to come and

see all of Mull's wildlife but hopefully they'll see them all here

at Glengorm because here it's like a microcosm. There are staff employed

here who take visitors on wildlife tours.

We are on the way to the Hide and Steph spotted something away over

the marsh there. What have you seen? This is really exciting, it's a male

hen harrier. It's a pale bird, quite unusual for Britain's birds of prey

which are mostly brown or gold in colour. It's one of the rarer

special seize. Two minutes into the journey and already we have seen one

-- rarer species. There we go. Wow. That's pretty

special, isn't it? Incredible view. It's brilliant, isn't it? Certainly

is. It's wild though. On a good day, you get a fantastic clear view right

out to the mouth of the loch. You can see dolphin going past and in

calmer weather otters in front of the hide. Within the short time that

I've been here, I've seen some pretty amazing things that I never

thought I would get a chance to see. Like what Probably the one that

beats all was the basking sharks. I'd never seen those before and it

will stay with you for life, you know, it was so memorable.

So is the wildlife the Ranger or walks pro provision making money?

This year it won't have covered its costs but it's got a long way to

starting to do that. Steph runs a blog and so on so does other aspects

that feed into the estate to make the whole thing viable. We are

trying to achieve a thriving business and viable community. These

things take time, but it just contributes to the whole creation of

the Glengorm community and makes me want to come here and for them to

enjoy their stay more when they come and make them want to come back

again. Later, I'll meet the man who's

worked for 20 years to achieve his dream of being a full-time farmer on

Mull. I've been in the north of the

island. Dougie is heading towards the south.

Apart from tourism, island economies are heavily reliant on fishing,

farming and forestry quite often. Here on Mull, there's 32,000 acres

of forest. Across what's known as the Ross of

Mull, there are a number of stands of plantation that were planted in

the 1960s. Many suffer from wind damage. The soils are thin. The

timber starts to blow and once it starts, you get a domino effect and

end up with a big tangled mess. It stood for about 40 years which is

the maximum you would expect in this environment and if we don't take it

now, it's going to blow down. Demand for timber could outstrip supply.

And, because it takes decades to mature, there's no quick fix.

It makes the need to extract timber from areas like this all the more

pressing. With poor largely single track roads

on the island and the ferries already packed full of tour US

traffic, it wasn't financially viable to move the timber to the

mainland using existing options. But, that's where this bit of kit

came in. A floating pier. Over the next five years, about

220,000 tonnes of timber are expected to be slip shipped out

using the pier which consists of a barge and bridge section that have

been cleverly engineered to allow assembly onsite using hydraulics. It

was designed by heirshire based JST Services.

These are the only ones of this design in the world -- Ayrshihire.

Imtakes four hours to assemble. The beauty of using these things is, we

can come on to a Virgin shore, it may only take a day's preparation

for the ground and when we are away, it's back to Greenland again.

There is a lot of forestry in the West Coast of Scotland. There is

either land lock because of no roads or not good roads. This is a

solution to take timber away that can then go all over the world.

Boats with up to 3,000 tonnes of capacity can dock at the pier. The

equivalent of about 100 lorries. If we didn't have the floating pier,

it would involve an awful lot of lorry trips through the middle of

the Northern Ireland. Nobody really wants that -- the island. In a

nutshell, it wouldn't work without the floating pier. Could this be

rolled out across the country do you think? I think it has to be. There

is no alternative to accessing the row mote woodlands.

-- remote. This lump of metal may not be the most glamorous bit of kit

you have seen, but when you think about the benefits, you see it

differently. Add to that the fact it was designed and developed here in

Scotland, well then the story gets even better.

While I've been finding out about the pier, Sarah has been looking at

machines, engineered for speed in Tobamorie. Rally drivers have been

catching the ferry to Mull for years to compete in the annual rally.

Over the course of two nights and one afternoon, each year, sections

of Mull's public roads are closed. This gives the drivers the chance to

test their skills against all that the island's narrow and twisty roads

can throw at them. Remember the phone box. Be brave.

300. The drivers compete over 19 separate

time sections during a day and night.

You close the roads just to have these special rallies. We depend on

the good will of the people on the island and they have put up with us

now for the past 45 years. The rally is you nook because of

that aspect. It's also unique because it's on an island and people

have to make a financial commitment to come and do this event -- it's

unique. You Then you come to the race

itself. I often think the roads were designed by a drunk man with a wheel

barrow full of tar with a wee hole in the bottom and, as he staggered

home from village to village, the road builders the next day followed

this trickle of tar. The roads are the biggest challenge on this

island. The event attracts thousands of

spectators, giving the local economy a huge boost.

The population in Mull doubles during rally week. Where they all

sleep nobody knows. There are people on top of the hill in tents and they

think they are the bee's knees camping out in this watching the

rally. They come from all over. Everything's just about to kick off.

The sun's gone down, the raws is about to begin in 15 my opinions and

there is an air of excitement and nervous anticipation behind the

drivers. Join me later on when the Mull rally will be in full swing.

-- the race is about to begin in 15 minutes.

When I've been in the north of the island, Euan headed west to meet a

farmer. One of the recurring problems we

talk about on Landward is the difficulty of getting new blood into

farming. Unless you unher a farm, the cost of land and equipment and

the lack of available farms to rent makes it almost impossible to become

a farmer. Here on Mull, after 20 years hard

work, Ian's managed to secure a tenancy on an 8,000-acre farm on the

west of the island. Wild out there today? Sunshine and

showers today. So what are these guys? Destined for the pedigree

cattle sale. I'm in here getting them used to being handled in the

hatchet it's a nice way to pass the evening. You come here and dress up

your heifer. You've obviously got the

Highlanders, it's a work of art. What else is on the farm? Chive

yacht Cheviots, destined for the next sale. So that the perfect mix,

sheep and cows for Mull? I suppose it's good having the cattle and

sheep enterprise, so as not to risk your eggs in one basket, so to

speak. He has 60 Highland breeding cows on

the farm. We are heading to feed this year's calves.

Farming keeps you fit. It's a good, physical job. It's a bit like being

a reporter. How big a battle was it to get your farm? Took me nearly 20

years and it was a real battle. But I was too young to take on the

family farm years ago, so I was keen to stay in the industry and to be my

own boss. I started up a small contracting business and worked at

that for almost ten years. In that time, I was taking on grazing leases

and then the opportunity calm to move to Mull about 12 years ago and

I continued contracting, took on a bigger place, 500 acres, still on a

grazing tenancy though, there was no security. A grazing tenancy is a

short-term contract of less than a year. That made it really difficult,

but it was an opportunity to build and take a risk and then we came in

here, about eight years ago on our contract farm arrangement with the

owners, and that was when it really started to full-time farm for me.

Then we got a full time tenancy. That was a five year tenancy, not as

long as Ian would have liked, but enough time to make plans and gets

himself established. To buy a place would be tremendous, but the

cattedle involved and that is out of the question. It would be really

good to get a long-term tenancy here. It's really difficult for

would-be farmers to secure their own place. Ian's story shows that with

enough dedication and sheer hard graft, it is possible.

You have the sunshine, cows, fantastic scenery, two minutes ago,

it was lashing and cold and wet. What's the attraction? I've never

asked myself that question, it's just in you. You want to do it if

you like outdoors. I've never woken up one day in my life not wanting to

do it. No matter how long it takes, you just do your job. It's really

rewarding. I come here and speak to the people who come holidaying. They

come here and it's raining and misty, I don't make lots of money

but it's good. I would recommend a tenancy.

The love lovely bay is in the north-west of the island. It's a

great spot for a wander and a little contemplation.

If you have a comment about newing you see on the programme, get in

touch by e-mail: The weather here on Mull is sunny, a

little cold, but what about the prospects for this weekend beyond?

Here is the Landward weather forecast.

Thankfully the high winds that we have seen across some parts of the

country today slowly dying down and tomorrow, a lot more settled. High

pressure out in the Atlantic starting to build its way back in.

Producing some fairly settled conditions right through the weekend

actually. A cold, bright, frosty start for central and southern

Scotland. Cloudier in the north and west. High cloud across central and

southern Scotland. The sunshine is hazy by the afternoon. That cloud

always thickener the north-west with light and patchy outbreaks.

Temperatures not far off what we have seen today but without the high

winds it should feel better. Patchy outbreaks of rain at times.

A bit of a breeze across the far north of the mainland, but nothing

like what we saw today. If you are hill walking or climbing, generally

in western and north-western ranges, it's cloudy with outbreaks of rain.

Winds coming from the west. Across the east and the south, much

brighter conditions on the cards. Great visibility too. Winds lighter

but also from a westerly direction. On the in shore waters, it's a

westerly force four. One or two coastal showers at times and over in

the east, it's a westerly force four to five, with good visibility.

The rest of the afternoon and into the evening and overnight, little

change. Fairly dry for central and southern parts. In the north and

north-west, a stream of showers working their way in and winds

picking up a touch in the north. In shelter, in parts of rural

Aberdeenshire and Perthshire, we could be down to freezing.

Elsewhere, milder, particularly on the West Coast. Looking ahead to

Sunday, the high pressure continues to muscle its way in, keeping things

largely settled, but also largely cloudy.

It's a settled Sunday. But fairly cloudy at times. Here is the detail.

The cloud always thick enough to produce odd spots of light rain or

drizzle. It will be a milder day though. Looking ahead towards Monday

and characterised by high pressure once again, fairly cloudy and dry,

but in the north-west we'll start to see outbreaks of rain working their

way in. To start the new week, it's largely dry, but that cloud still

with us and potentially producing some light outbreaks of rain. On the

whole it's dry but windy by the end of the day, certainly up towards the

north-west as the weather front approaches. There it is and it's the

dividing line to. The south of it fairly mild, cloudy weather, but no

the north much colder, brighter conditions working their way in.

Through the day on Tuesday, that weather front sinks its way south,

but as the winds are quite strong, that could well lift the

temperatures up towards Aberdeenshire. Towards Wednesday, we

are into the colder conditions. Any showers could be wintry at times.

Plenty of sunshine around. The cold trend continues through to Friday.

That's the forecast. In the right weather, the bay is

stunning and it's not the only reason to visit this part of this

bay, Calgary Bay. You can find this sculpture wood known as art in

nature. Tucked away at the edge of the wood,

you will find a gallery. And the workshop of its owner, wood

carver, Matthew Reid. Despite working in wood, Matthew

takes husband inspiration from the sea shore, not the forest.

-- his inspiration. The inspiration is often drawn from your

surroundings, from the coastline. Also from the people around you as

well. My work is taken from the beach and early morning walks there

and the shadows and the light that affects the sand and the seaweed and

kelp that's been washed up. But then other things come into play such as

the people around you. Within this building, there are maybe four or

five arts and crafts people. As a group, you definitely draw ideas and

inspiration and support from having them here and family and friends,

you know. Matthew moved to Mull when he was 16

to run a dairy farm. His mum and two of his brothers still work there

making the famous Mull cheddar. But it was when Matthew was running

a hotel that he got the chance to develop his craft.

I made furniture for the restaurant and a lot of demurn for the rooms

there. It was very individual. So each winter, I would try and make a

new piece to keep the hotel look looking unique. Now the thing is I

am doing what is my passion. Has that passion always been burning in

you? I don't know whether to haves be an ah dust, to create or make

stuff. -- to have an artist. Whether it's making a delicate piece of

sculpture or building something larger like a house or a shelter or

a space, the just being creative. If you can express, I suppose, when the

creativity becomes expressive, then I suppose you could call it

artistic. Yes. I don't know if I've got there

yet. Over 100 teams are competing in the

Mull rally this year. Some have travelled from as far afield as

Ireland and southern England to compete.

But, it's the locals who dominate this race.

Every year for the last ten years, a Mull resident has won.

What does it take to be a Mull rally winner? Stupidity, bravery skill,

talent. Who knows. It's the ability to drive fast, to concentrate for

long periods. This is a long event. To add to the challenge, two thirds

of the racing happens in the dark. As the sun sets, just before the

start, I caught up with the two top seeded drivers who're does uns from

the north of the island. The number 2 car, John and in 1, Callum.

Callum, number 1 car, you are the first to head off. How are you

feeling? Not too bad. I'm not nervous yet. I've done this for my

20th year now. My nerves are gone, but when we get on the start line,

there'll be a few butterflies. How do you feel about this year? Feeling

confident? The weather's fantastic. It's the best chance that a two

wheel car drive car has. We have young and up coming star behind us,

which is my young does un-John. It's a real challenge for us to try

against each other. -- cousin John. Feeling good about it. New car for

us. It's going to take a bit of get. Ing used to. It's a proper machine.

We'll see how we get on. We'll do our best. How are the nerves? Not

too bad. You are always nervous at this time, always going to the

toilet. It's absolutely flat out from the

start and it's just the intensity of the competition. It's the longest,

toughest national rally in the UK. The cars are timed over each racing

section. Over two nights and one afternoon, they'll cover more than

150 miles at speeds of up to 120mph. On single track on public roads.

The team are the fastest time overall wins.

-- the team with the fastest time overall wins.

As well as talented drivers, the teams also need good mechanics.

So behind every car is an incredible support team, something like this.

They set up camp, wait for the cars to come in and then it's all go.

They service the cars, then they are out on the road again.

It's day two of the rally and the island wakes up to the surprise news

that the top seeded driver, Calum Duffy went off the road and is out

of the race. His younger cousin John is in the

lead. 2002 was the last time a local

didn't win this event so they are very, very good.

On Mull, it hasn't got a huge road network so it's roads that are used

every day by the locals so they know them inside out. That and they are a

bit special driving. How important a sport is it for the spectators

watching? There's the noise, just the anticipation of the speed that's

coming, the noise when the cargos past, then once the car's past, you

get the smell of the hot oil and things like that. You are looking at

me like, what on earth are you talking about, but that's what

people come to see and hear and it's that which captures the imagination

of the sheer speed. Throughout day two, John maintains

his lead and, to the delight of the locals, crosses the finish line in

his home village. It truly is a dream come true to come and do this.

We have worked hard to be here and a lot of team work's gone into getting

even the car here. To come back to your home village with all these

people here, I like to soak it up and enjoy it. These rally drivers

almost go as fast as you as you are heading back from the Landward

shoot. Very funny. You must be thinking of Euan. That's almost it.

Next week, we are back on the mainland with more stories from the

Scottish countryside. Join us for that and much more, at the same

time, Friday night, 7 o'clock on BBC Two Scotland. In the meantime, buy

from all of us here. Cheerio. Bye.