Southern New South Wales Coast Australia


Southern New South Wales

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The New South Wales south coast is peppered with nooks and crannies

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that fill it with seductive charm.

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The beauty of this coast is that, big as it is, it still somehow,

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in some places, manages to feel small, intimate, endearingly modest.

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You could call it the protected coast,

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fiercely safeguarded by the locals.

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Joining me on this journey,

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Professor Tim Flannery explores a wartime mystery

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linking Australia to a lost British treasure.

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Who actually is the owner of the ingot?

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I'm not prepared to go into that, Tim.

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Dr Alice Garner revisits a yacht race with life and death stakes.

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160kph winds, with gusts to 200kph.

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And I look into the story of a killer whale

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that helped men hunt other whales.

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I really, really hope it's more than just a folktale.

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This is Coast Australia.

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In this episode, we explore from Seven Mile Beach,

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along the sparkling Sapphire Coast,

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to Gabo Island on the Victorian side of the border.

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Heading south from Wollongong is a deceptively treacherous stretch

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of coast, where unpredictable swells crash eternally

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into craggy cliffs, like these at the aptly named Point Perpendicular.

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A formidable promontory that stands between the calmer waters

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of Jervis Bay, and the dangerous underwater rocks of Wreck Bay.

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150 years ago, the ships trading up and down this coast

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had no lighthouse to guide them.

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Imagine being a ship's captain,

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edging your way northwards along this coastline,

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at night maybe, in a gale, driven before a stiff southerly wind.

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You've got to hug the coast because just off the coastline

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is the East Australian current, which is pushing against you.

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So you're drifting up here, doing your best to stay out of trouble,

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but there's no guiding light

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to let you know of the existence of this headland.

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It's as though geology and the sea had conspired

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to make the perfect trap.

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Wreck Bay.

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Today, two lighthouses grace these headlands.

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This one, on the northern Point Perpendicular, is operational.

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The other, on the southern Cape St George's headland, is defunct.

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When it first lit up in 1860,

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it was described in the local Illawarra Mercury, as:

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"It will provide an unerring guide to a haven of rest

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"and safety in the bay adjoining."

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"Unerring guide."

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Except there was one thing wrong, and it led to dreadful tragedy.

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The lighthouse was built in the wrong place.

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Instead of saving lives,

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it lured ships into the very place the crews were trying to avoid.

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Wreck Bay.

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Over a dozen ships were either stranded on the beach,

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or smashed to pieces on the rocks before the colonial bureaucracy

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finally fessed up to its fatal error.

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How could they have got it so wrong?

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Local historian Bridget Sant is the expert on this incredible story.

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-Quite a ruin you've got here.

-Isn't it grand?

-Let's go in.

-OK.

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-Bridget, this is the sorriest lighthouse I've seen.

-It sure is.

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-How did it come to this?

-It was built in the wrong place.

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They should have built it on the northern headland,

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but they didn't, they built it on the southern headland.

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They did it very quickly,

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they had a conference in Melbourne in 1857,

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when 14 out of 18 captains said Cape St George is where they wanted it,

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on the southern headland.

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Given that those, you'd imagine, would be the very people

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that you'd think had the wisdom and experience

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to properly site a lighthouse, how did so many of them get it wrong?

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They were concerned about Wreck Bay, which is the area to the south,

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where there had been several wrecks in the previous few years.

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They thought that the southern headland would protect mariners

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from getting wrecked in Wreck Bay.

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Why was that wrong?

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Because the shape of the headland

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means that this spot is not visible from Wreck Bay.

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It's too far around the corner, as it were.

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The New South Wales Pilots' Board,

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responsible for deciding where lighthouses get placed,

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questioned the Melbourne decision.

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They preferred the Northern headland at Point Perpendicular.

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But their concerns were ignored by colonial architect Alexander Dawson.

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On a whistle-stop recce to the Cape St George's headland, Dawson

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identified two sites, Point S and Point T as suitable places to build.

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This is a copy of the actual drawings

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that were presented to the builders

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to enable them to find where they were meant to build the lighthouse.

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It's so vague, is it any wonder, when you look at that,

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that the lighthouse came to be built in precisely the wrong place?

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Dawson decided on Point S,

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even though it was closer to Wreck Bay, and lower than Point T.

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Probably because it was easier to access,

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and would cost £1,600 less to build.

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And so it was agreed that it should be on Point S,

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but nobody came down to survey the exact spot,

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so when the builders came out to build it,

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they did not know where to put it.

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And, so, they built it in the wrong spot.

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Worried that the lighthouse could not be seen from the sea,

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members of the New South Wales Pilots' Board

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wrote a letter of objection, but they were overruled by the chairman.

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The way you recount the tale,

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it sounds very much like a case of ego and stubborn pig-headedness.

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Absolutely.

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They weren't going to blot their copybook by admitting errors.

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The Pilot Board tried again,

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insisting the lighthouse was dangerous and should not be lit.

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But bureaucratic bombast prevailed, with one concession.

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It was agreed that it should be lit as a temporary measure.

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That temporary period was 39 years.

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It was to be 39 years of mayhem as the temporary light

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of the St George's Lighthouse lured many trusting ships to their doom.

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The tragic ironies of this place keep stacking up.

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Even after the lighthouse was decommissioned,

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it was still a problem.

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A new one had been built at Point Perpendicular,

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but this great blonde sandstone tower with mirrors at the top

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was still a hazard to shipping because it reflected sunlight,

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so the decision was taken to destroy it.

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For that reason, Australian warships were given the go-ahead

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to blow it to smithereens, which they duly did,

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and it's only now, years after all of that tragedy,

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that the site rests in peace under a preservation order.

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Travelling north-west from Point Perpendicular

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brings you to the sheltered waters of Jervis Bay,

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where Professor Tim Flannery is following a seaweed trail

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to a ground-breaking medical discovery.

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Australia's well known as a desert continent.

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But, what's less appreciated,

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is that it's surrounded by a desert sea.

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There's no great rivers or currents to bring nutrients to these waters,

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so they're among the least productive on the planet.

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And therein lies a great enigma.

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Although there's not a lot of productivity here,

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there is tremendous diversity,

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and among the most diverse groups here are the seaweeds.

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Four times the size of Sydney Harbour,

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Jervis Bay has numerous small coves and beaches.

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This one, Callala Bay, is home to some very special macro algae,

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seaweeds with protective mechanisms

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that have kept them alive for half a billion years.

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Dr Pia Winberg has spent her career investigating the slimy gel

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that gives seaweed such strong defences.

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Pia, what have you got there?

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I've got a great harvest of all kinds of seaweed.

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The huge diversity that we've got here in Jervis Bay is amazing.

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That's a typical green seaweed called codium.

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You can feel, it's full of these gels that protect the seaweed.

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-Very velvety.

-This is brown seaweed.

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-It's a unique and native Australian seaweed, Neptune's Necklace.

-Yes.

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What role do these great diversity of seaweeds play in the ocean?

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Well, they're the base of the food chain, so seaweeds are an algae.

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Lots of algae cells stuck together in different shapes and sizes.

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They create things like the omega-3 that goes up the food chain.

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-They're the source of the omega-3.

-Is that right?

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So the pills that I get, the fish oil tablets, that omega-3

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ultimately comes from algae like this and not from the fish?

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Yes. It started in the seaweed and the fish are just accumulating it.

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For the past 15 years,

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Pia has been at the forefront of researching previously unknown

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health benefits hidden inside Australian seaweed gels.

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I guess the process starts here.

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I see we've got some seaweeds that we picked up this morning.

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That's right. You can see the diversity here on the table.

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Those seaweeds have evolved here in Australia for so long

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that they're unique, and it means that the gels and components

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in those seaweeds are just as unique,

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and we're here exploring those.

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The gels that protect seaweed cells

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are similar to cellular substances in human tissue.

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Extracting the gel from seaweed

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requires a complex laboratory process.

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Pia's looking to harness the incredibly robust

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anti-inflammatory and immunity boosting properties of seaweed gel.

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It can be used on skin as a protective barrier.

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It has been shown in studies to reduce tumour growth

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and proliferation.

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If we put those gels into the human digestive system,

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they can become a barrier to block the enzymes

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from bacteria that would break down sugars very quickly in our body

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and, in that way, it's a property of managing and preventing diabetes.

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If Pia succeeds,

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she'd have a breakthrough that could revolutionise modern medicine.

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So, what are we seeing here?

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Here you can see some human defence cells,

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cells that we normally have in our body

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defending us against bacteria and viruses.

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We have stressed these cells out with an inflammatory ingredient.

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But some of the cells have a seaweed gel in them -

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that's these on the right, and some don't.

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You can see how much better the ones with the seaweed gels survive

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the inflammation stresses than the ones without seaweed gels.

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The research is especially exciting when it comes to stem cells.

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Those versatile cells capable of developing into many different

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types of human tissue.

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When you place stem cells into the different types of seaweed gels,

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these gels can actually direct how a stem cell might develop.

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Say, for example, into bone tissue, or into muscle tissue,

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or nerve tissue.

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So, really, everything from someone who's massively burned and needs

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to regrow their skin, through to saving eyesight,

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through to better gut health,

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this little seaweed is unlocking the secret to all of that?

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Yes, keeping the cells alive so we can repair ourselves.

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That is amazing.

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At the end of the day, you'd have to think the world is a better place

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for having people like Dr Pia Winberg.

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People who take something utterly ordinary, like this,

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and turn it into something extraordinary.

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I, for one, at least, will never think of seaweed the same way again.

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The tranquil fishing village of Eden

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lies at the southern edge of the Sapphire Coast.

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100 years ago, this sleepy township witnessed an astonishing history.

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One, if it is to believed, that's unique in the world.

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I've come down here to Twofold Bay in search of a wonderful story.

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It's about cooperation.

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In fact, it sounds more like comradeship

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between pods of killer whales and the whaling community of Eden.

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They've been telling it around here for 80 years and more,

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and I really, really hope it's more than just a folktale.

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European whaling began in Eden back in 1828.

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The village was perfectly situated.

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Twofold Bay is on the whales' annual migration route.

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But the area had another

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literally killer asset.

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Twofold Bay was home to three pods of orcas,

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killer whales that regularly preyed on other whale species.

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And diaries, accounts, and photographs

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from the time describe the indescribable.

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These killer whales working in harmony with men,

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communicating with one another

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as they hunted giant baleen whales - together.

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Now, there were three pods, or groups,

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of killer whales that hunted in the Eden area,

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and the most famous of all the orcas

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was the one they called

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"Old Tom" - a seven-metre long

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killing machine accustomed to

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consuming 50 kilos of meat a day.

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Now, that's not him,

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but it is a very convincing replica that we've borrowed,

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and it gives you a real spine-tingling sense

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of what the nature of the beast really was.

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Greg McKee is one of Australia's top animatronics artists.

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He made this life-size model of Old Tom for a documentary

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about this unique aspect of local whaling history.

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What is it, Greg, that you so admire about these animals?

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They have these astonishing qualities.

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They have a brain six times bigger than a human,

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so they're incredibly social, they are faster than a racehorse,

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they're more powerful than virtually any other predator on earth.

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They co-operated with the humans, the Europeans

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and the indigenous people, in this amazing relationship.

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But it's the special relationship between Old Tom

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and local whaler George Davidson that really sets this story apart.

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Greg takes me to meet Martin Davidson, George's great-grandson.

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Can you talk me through how a typical hunt would work?

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Well, I suppose it's basically a case of,

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the orcas are out to sea looking for whales,

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and they'd be herding them up the coast, and one of the whales

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would come into the bay and physically wake 'em up.

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And it wasn't just an accident,

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a huge amount of intent was involved.

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The whale chase might have been 10km down the coast,

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so the bulk of the pod would be hammering at this baleen whale,

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and they would assign one or two members of the pod to swim kilometres

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- 10, 15km - completely away to the mouth of the river here.

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And they would floptail - as the family called it -

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and somersault, make a huge racket, and then the Davidsons would get out

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in their whale boats and swim out to the orcas,

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and pretty well they'd go, "Where are we going, guys?"

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And the killer whales would direct them miles out to sea,

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they'd eventually kill the whale, then go home again,

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and they'd leave the first spoils to the killer whale.

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It sounds like a Disney movie,

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but studies reveal that killer whales are adaptive hunters,

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able to learn new techniques and teach these to their young.

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They're known to hit their tails on water to signal other whales,

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so it's not inconceivable that they adapted this behaviour to

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communicate with the Davidson whalers.

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So could they spot your family?

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They basically went by the colour of the boats, the boats were

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painted green, so they had that heads up

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to a certain degree on everybody else.

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And the whales had really distinctive personalities as well.

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Tom was called "Tom Tug" at one stage, or "Tom the Humourist,"

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and sometimes he'd picked up guys who were fishing out in the bay

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and tow their dinghy around for fun.

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If they were exhibiting that kind of behaviour, it's no wonder they

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-thought, "That's not just an animal, that's one of us."

-One of us.

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Whale numbers inevitably declined, ending Eden's whaling bonanza.

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The pods of killer whales moved away, but Old Tom

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still returned, year on year, and was a regular visitor in the bay.

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It would be nice to think that Old Tom came back

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just to see George Davidson.

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And then on the 17th September 1930,

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Old Tom's body was spotted floating in the bay.

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He was dead, and George was devastated.

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What happened next is strangely touching.

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George carefully recovered the body and then preserved the skeleton,

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and Old Tom will be in Eden forever,

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here in the Killer Whale Museum.

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The teeth of this larrikin old killer whale provide one last clue

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to the truth of the story.

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Could a rope have caused these abrasions, like the one

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on George Davidson's whaling boat, being towed out to sea by Old Tom.

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Believe it or believe it not, it's a fabulous story.

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For those who live on the New South Wales south coast,

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gale-force winds and wild seas are a fact of life.

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On a blustery wet day in Eden, Tim Flannery has come to explore

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a maritime mystery linking Australia

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to a First World War British secret cargo.

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In 1917, the huge freighter The Cumberland sank off this coast.

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The Great War was dragging on in Europe,

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but she was the first casualty in home waters.

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It took everyone by surprise.

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A formidable 9,000 tonne steamer,

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The Cumberland could move massive cargoes at speed.

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In July 1917, she was loaded with supplies critical

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to the Allied war effort.

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Materials destined for British munitions factories.

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For fear of attack, The Cumberland's cargo was kept top-secret,

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but as she navigated Cape Howe, heading for Bass Strait,

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a sudden explosion blew a hole in her bow and all but sank her.

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-Rob, is it?

-G'day, Tim.

-Hello, mate.

-Nice to meet you.

-Good to meet you.

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-There's Twofold Bay.

-Beautiful.

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'Rob Whiter's family has lived in Eden for nearly 80 years.

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'He's well-versed in the story of The Cumberland

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'and its special cargo.'

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So what was she carrying?

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She had on board a huge amount of precious metal ingots

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in the form of copper, lead and zinc.

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We're told to the order of 300,000 British pounds.

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Not chicken feed.

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No, no, I guess many millions of dollars in today's...

0:22:370:22:40

Absolutely, yeah.

0:22:400:22:41

The cause of the explosion was a mystery, and after a makeshift patch-up job,

0:22:430:22:47

the crippled British steamer headed to Eden for a full repair.

0:22:470:22:51

They got here, somewhere close to Green Cape,

0:22:520:22:56

they encountered a terribly strong north-easterly gale,

0:22:560:23:00

sea got very rough, and the blanket material

0:23:000:23:04

they had underneath the hull to stop the inrush of water started

0:23:040:23:09

to get adrift and she started taking on water very quickly.

0:23:090:23:13

When she sank, sabotage was suggested.

0:23:160:23:19

Prime Minister Billy Hughes announced

0:23:190:23:21

a large reward for information about the supposed crime.

0:23:210:23:24

INCOMING ARTILLERY

0:23:240:23:26

At the time, the Anzac war effort was heavily engaged,

0:23:260:23:30

fighting on the Western Front in France.

0:23:300:23:32

No-one predicted an attack in faraway Australia.

0:23:320:23:36

So it was a shock to discover the explosion was caused

0:23:370:23:40

by a German mine cunningly rigged to float five metres below the surface.

0:23:400:23:45

The loss of the Cumberland

0:23:470:23:48

and its precious cargo was

0:23:480:23:50

the first conclusive evidence

0:23:500:23:51

that the Germans laid minefields

0:23:510:23:53

this far from Europe.

0:23:530:23:55

It's somehow fitting to be here on this storm-tossed day,

0:23:590:24:02

because it was weather like this that, nearly a century ago,

0:24:020:24:05

sent the Cumberland to the bottom.

0:24:050:24:07

What's truly amazing for me

0:24:070:24:09

is that this southern coast of New South Wales, so far from any

0:24:090:24:13

theatre of war, should have seen the loss of so many vessels.

0:24:130:24:17

And, of course, because of the value of her cargo,

0:24:170:24:19

The Cumberland was destined to become the most famous of them all.

0:24:190:24:22

In the 1950s, the British came to Eden to launch

0:24:260:24:29

a brave salvage operation.

0:24:290:24:32

They reached the wreck, lying deep in 100 metres of water,

0:24:320:24:36

the gaping nine-metre hole from the mine still clearly evident.

0:24:360:24:40

Blasting it apart,

0:24:400:24:42

they recovered almost 2,000 tonnes of the sunken metal.

0:24:420:24:46

Is there any chance I could see that ingot?

0:24:480:24:50

'It turns out that Rob has a piece of this treasure,

0:24:500:24:54

'left to him by his father.'

0:24:540:24:55

Well, there you go, Jim, that's the ingot.

0:24:570:25:00

That represents the treasure that the Pommies were after

0:25:000:25:03

when they came in '52.

0:25:030:25:05

Really? And what is it? It look like...is it copper?

0:25:050:25:09

It's copper, yes, the grease on there indicates copper.

0:25:090:25:13

Well, it was cast nearly 100 years ago, so it's a historic piece.

0:25:130:25:17

-Absolutely. Shortly to be placed in Eden Killer Whale Museum.

-Really?

0:25:170:25:21

It's very interesting, who actually owns it?

0:25:210:25:24

It's already been gifted to the museum.

0:25:260:25:29

But, before that, who actually is the owner of the ingot?

0:25:290:25:33

-I'm not prepared to go into that, Tim.

-Oh, are you not?

0:25:330:25:35

THEY LAUGH

0:25:350:25:37

OK. Well, fair enough. So it might or might not be contraband.

0:25:370:25:41

Yes.

0:25:410:25:43

I could assume that it was given to my dad

0:25:430:25:45

-and his brother in lieu of payment for work they did on a boat.

-Right.

0:25:450:25:49

So there's no chance that it could be

0:25:490:25:51

the property of Her Majesty's Imperial Government then?

0:25:510:25:54

-Absolutely not.

-LAUGHING: Right, fair enough, I won't go any further.

0:25:540:25:58

And it wouldn't be the first time anyway a piece of

0:25:580:26:01

-potential contraband had ended up in a museum.

-No. Or in Eden.

-Right! OK.

0:26:010:26:05

Travel south past Disaster Bay to the border of Victoria,

0:26:210:26:25

and look offshore,

0:26:250:26:26

and you'll see Gabo Island -

0:26:260:26:28

a 154-hectare punctuation mark off the corner of the coast.

0:26:280:26:33

Notorious for wild storms, record tides as high as 16 metres,

0:26:330:26:38

and over 100 shipwrecks.

0:26:380:26:40

The Gabo Lighthouse is one of the tallest in Australia,

0:26:450:26:48

at 47 metres. It was built in 1858,

0:26:480:26:52

out of the distinctive pink granite on the island.

0:26:520:26:56

Manned by dedicated lighthouse keepers living in frugal conditions,

0:26:560:27:00

it quickly became a vital navigational aid.

0:27:000:27:03

Marine biologist Professor Emma Johnston has

0:27:050:27:08

a personal connection to this untamed place.

0:27:080:27:10

My great-great-grandmother lived on this island, she was

0:27:120:27:16

married to the lighthouse keeper, and she gave birth to two children here.

0:27:160:27:21

Seeing it now from the sky, so small, isolated, rugged,

0:27:210:27:25

exposed...I am in awe at her strength.

0:27:250:27:31

I'm not here to uncover my family history,

0:27:330:27:36

but rather for a privileged peek into a secret method for growing pearls.

0:27:360:27:42

I'm here to meet Gerry and Mary Menke.

0:27:440:27:47

The Menkes have worked out how to grow pearls in abalone,

0:27:470:27:50

those one-shelled molluscs that live on the sea floor.

0:27:500:27:53

Theirs is a unique claim to fame, at least in Australia,

0:27:530:27:56

and I'm here to find out why and - if they'll let me - how.

0:27:560:28:01

'Gerry and Mary are pioneers.' Hi!

0:28:020:28:05

'As Australia's only abalone pearl farmers,

0:28:050:28:08

'they've succeeded where others have failed, drawing on

0:28:080:28:12

'Gerry's 40 plus years of experience

0:28:120:28:14

'diving for these highly-prized univalved molluscs.'

0:28:140:28:18

So why is it so difficult to farm pearls in the wild?

0:28:180:28:22

For a start, to get good pearls you've got to have rough conditions.

0:28:220:28:27

Because the abalone love rough areas,

0:28:270:28:30

and that's where they grow the biggest.

0:28:300:28:33

Abalone is a kind of sea snail.

0:28:330:28:36

Unlike oysters, they move around -

0:28:360:28:38

another reason their pearls are difficult to cultivate.

0:28:380:28:42

This is the black lip abalone.

0:28:420:28:45

It's native to the area, "haliotis rubra,"

0:28:450:28:47

and it's the one that the Menkes have chosen to cultivate.

0:28:470:28:51

Most commercial abalone are farmed,

0:28:560:28:58

but in the inaccessible seas off Gabo Island Gerry's pioneered a technique

0:28:580:29:03

of keeping wild-caught abalone in specially designed ocean cages.

0:29:030:29:07

And about how long does it take for an abalone pearl to grow?

0:29:070:29:10

Year-and-a-half to two years.

0:29:100:29:12

You feed 'em regularly, cos they're in a cage now

0:29:120:29:15

and can't roam around the seabed.

0:29:150:29:18

And the abalone pearls actually look quite different to the oyster pearls.

0:29:180:29:23

We're doing it in the wild, where every animal produces

0:29:230:29:26

a different colour and pearl and shade.

0:29:260:29:28

The variety is enormous.

0:29:280:29:30

Until now, pearls found in wild abalone were tiny, whitish

0:29:300:29:35

and very, very rare.

0:29:350:29:37

By feeding his animals specially blended seaweed,

0:29:370:29:40

Gerry's found a way to vary the colours,

0:29:400:29:42

and the Menkes wild-farmed pearls are considerably superior.

0:29:420:29:46

The Menkes have a very secretive method that's under patent,

0:29:480:29:52

and we've promised not to show the entire thing, but they've

0:29:520:29:55

very generously agreed to show us

0:29:550:29:57

part of the process of inserting the pearl.

0:29:570:30:00

'Because abalone molluscs are 90% muscle,

0:30:000:30:03

'they're difficult to handle, and must first be anaesthetised.'

0:30:030:30:06

So how do you anaesthetise an abalone?

0:30:060:30:08

-Oh, with alcohol.

-Of course!

0:30:080:30:10

THEY LAUGH

0:30:100:30:12

Oh, look at them move, what's happening here?

0:30:120:30:14

The alcohol is starting to relax their muscle.

0:30:140:30:17

That's when we are able to work on the animals.

0:30:170:30:20

But here you can see the one we took out of the cage,

0:30:200:30:24

-and there's an example of a pearl in process.

-A green pearl.

0:30:240:30:30

You never know what colour is going to come out of it.

0:30:300:30:32

-Silver or green or in between.

-It's beautiful.

-Each animal is different.

0:30:320:30:37

-And you seeded this pearl?

-Yes, yes.

0:30:370:30:40

'Gerry seeds tailored plastic beads under the abalone mantle.

0:30:420:30:46

'It will take two years for the mollusc to cover the bead with

0:30:460:30:49

'nacre and form a pearl.

0:30:490:30:52

'So Gerry tags each shell with the year

0:30:520:30:54

'and month of seeding.'

0:30:540:30:56

A lot of the techniques has been trial and error.

0:30:560:31:00

It's very exciting for a scientist to hear about this

0:31:000:31:03

because, essentially, what you've been doing is experimenting

0:31:030:31:06

-with these animals.

-Yeah, yeah.

0:31:060:31:08

-And working out new techniques.

-Yeah, yeah.

0:31:080:31:11

-And now you've achieved something really special.

-Yeah.

0:31:110:31:14

'These freshly seeded abalone go back into the ocean

0:31:140:31:18

'and in about two years, hopefully, there will be a result -

0:31:180:31:20

'one that looks like this.'

0:31:200:31:23

That's stunning.

0:31:230:31:24

For a marine biologist this is triple value

0:31:240:31:28

because it's the product of a lot of research and experimentation.

0:31:280:31:31

It's a biological product. It's been grown by an animal

0:31:310:31:35

and it shines with all of the colours of the ocean.

0:31:350:31:40

-That's the major profit for us.

-I might have to take one home.

0:31:400:31:44

THEY LAUGH

0:31:440:31:45

'Boxing Day in Australia marks the start of the annual

0:32:020:32:05

'Sydney to Hobart yacht race.

0:32:050:32:07

'But, in 1998, the world famous race was disrupted

0:32:080:32:12

'by a monster storm that brought calamity and heartbreak.

0:32:120:32:16

'Dr Alice Garner is in Eden, the town that became the hub

0:32:180:32:21

'of the rescue effort.'

0:32:210:32:24

The Sydney to Hobart has nurtured a world-wide reputation

0:32:240:32:27

for being tough. But when that intersected

0:32:270:32:30

with a once in a lifetime weather bomb,

0:32:300:32:33

it turned into something altogether different.

0:32:330:32:36

It became Australia's largest ever peacetime rescue operation

0:32:360:32:41

and a humbling reminder of the power and unpredictability of the ocean.

0:32:410:32:46

'In 1945, the first Sydney to Hobart race

0:32:480:32:52

'saw nine starters attempt the 1,163 kilometre course

0:32:520:32:57

'that would take them across Bass Strait,

0:32:570:33:00

'the most treacherous stretch of water in Australia.

0:33:000:33:03

'Despite the danger, by 1998, the field had swelled to 115 teams,

0:33:060:33:12

'from all over the world.'

0:33:120:33:14

-RADIO:

-Warning...

0:33:170:33:19

There is a storm warning...

0:33:190:33:23

'But no-one predicted just how bad things would get

0:33:250:33:28

'on that ill-fated Boxing Day.'

0:33:280:33:30

-RADIO:

-Mayday, mayday, mayday.

0:33:310:33:33

We are getting life rafts on deck.

0:33:330:33:36

'Dr Roger Badham is a marine meteorologist and consultant

0:33:390:33:42

'to major yacht races.

0:33:420:33:44

'But even 30 years' experience couldn't prepare him

0:33:450:33:48

'for the fury of this storm.'

0:33:480:33:50

Clouds, where were you when the '98 Sydney to Hobart kicked off?

0:33:510:33:55

I was at the Yacht Club running around, doing briefings

0:33:550:33:57

to all different yachts and everyone knew that a low pressure

0:33:570:34:00

was going to develop but not to the intensity or complexity

0:34:000:34:04

that actually unfolded.

0:34:040:34:05

The new run of computer models had just become available

0:34:050:34:09

and instead of a broad low pressure system,

0:34:090:34:12

somewhere to the east of Tasmania,

0:34:120:34:14

here was an intense little low pressure system in Bass Strait,

0:34:140:34:18

heading pretty much for where the front end of the yachts,

0:34:180:34:21

the front end of the fleet, were going to be.

0:34:210:34:24

It just got worse and worse.

0:34:240:34:26

'At the edge of the volatile Bass Strait,

0:34:290:34:31

'warm air coming down from the north,

0:34:310:34:34

'combined explosively with this intense low pressure system,

0:34:340:34:38

'creating what is known as a weather bomb.

0:34:380:34:41

'The shallow seabed of the Strait then catapulted this mega storm

0:34:410:34:45

'directly into the path of the racing fleet.'

0:34:450:34:49

'160kph winds with gusts nearly to 200kph.

0:34:490:34:54

'When it got to the corner of Gabo Island,

0:34:550:34:58

'it hit the current coming the other way

0:34:580:35:01

'and what was a seven to ten-metre, or 11-metre waves,'

0:35:010:35:05

doubled in height, so you had 14 and 16-metre waves.

0:35:050:35:10

'Eden is a harbour where struggling yachts often retire from the race.

0:35:150:35:19

'But in 1998 it became the front line of the enormous rescue effort.'

0:35:190:35:24

-REPORTER:

-One by one, they pulled out of the race,

0:35:240:35:26

all thankful to escape with their lives.

0:35:260:35:29

'When the storm hit, the 83-foot trawler, Moira Elizabeth,

0:35:290:35:33

'was returning to Eden.

0:35:330:35:36

'Owner and captain Tom Bibby had sought refuge at Gabo Island,

0:35:360:35:40

'when he got a call to rescue 17 stricken sailors

0:35:400:35:44

'on the yacht Team Jaguar.'

0:35:440:35:45

At that stage, it was very, very bad weather.

0:35:470:35:50

I couldn't order my crew to go and do it,

0:35:500:35:52

so we actually had a discussion and I gave them the option -

0:35:520:35:56

yes/no, do you want to go?

0:35:560:35:58

Of course they just said yes,

0:35:580:36:00

because you don't like leaving people out there.

0:36:000:36:03

If you can do something about it, you do.

0:36:030:36:05

How anxious were you about going to do this rescue?

0:36:050:36:08

There was always that anxious moment.

0:36:080:36:12

Like, here comes a big wave, here comes a bigger one,

0:36:120:36:15

here comes an even bigger one!

0:36:150:36:16

It's just phenomenal.

0:36:160:36:18

We were trying to travel as fast as we could to get to these people,

0:36:180:36:22

who we thought were in danger.

0:36:220:36:24

So we were probably taking a lot more risk

0:36:240:36:28

-with the boat on that night than we do normally.

-Mmm.

0:36:280:36:30

I'm standing on the foredeck of the Moira Elizabeth,

0:36:330:36:35

about three metres above sea level.

0:36:350:36:37

On that night the waves were coming up over the bow

0:36:400:36:43

and up over the wheel house.

0:36:430:36:45

Tom and the crew describe seeing nothing except water.

0:36:460:36:51

In fact, they said it was a bit like going down a mine.

0:36:510:36:54

VOICES OF THE CREW

0:36:540:36:57

Well, we'd got a position on them.

0:37:000:37:02

They could see us because we had big flood lights and everything else

0:37:020:37:06

and it was lit up like a Christmas tree.

0:37:060:37:08

We came up across them and tried to get a line across them.

0:37:080:37:11

We actually fell off...

0:37:110:37:13

The whole boat fell off the side of one of these waves,

0:37:130:37:16

which was about 30 foot high

0:37:160:37:18

and free fell through the water

0:37:180:37:21

and hit the wave and then it just came over the top of us.

0:37:210:37:23

It was like being in a submarine.

0:37:230:37:25

Just drive it out, get it back up and then we postponed

0:37:250:37:28

getting a line across and just waited till daylight.

0:37:280:37:31

Then we took them under tow

0:37:320:37:34

and we towed them into Eden.

0:37:340:37:36

'In total, five vessels sank.

0:37:430:37:46

'66 were forced to seek refuge in Eden.

0:37:460:37:49

'55 sailors were rescued.

0:37:490:37:52

'And six lost their lives.'

0:37:530:37:54

'Were it not for the courage and seamanship of Tom and his crew,

0:38:010:38:05

'the death toll would have been far higher.

0:38:050:38:08

'On a day when one of the world's most notorious yacht races,

0:38:080:38:11

'turned into a race for survival.'

0:38:110:38:14

'Charming coves are just one attraction

0:38:290:38:32

'of the New South Wales south coast.

0:38:320:38:34

'Completely free of high-rise buildings,

0:38:340:38:37

'the 400-kilometre stretch

0:38:370:38:39

'between Shoalhaven and Gabo Island

0:38:390:38:41

'connects directly to another Australian tradition.

0:38:410:38:45

'Brendan Moar has come to explore a 95-year-old love affair

0:38:470:38:51

'with the fibro beach house.'

0:38:510:38:53

When I was growing up, every summer like clockwork,

0:39:010:39:04

my family and I would pack the car and head to the same beach

0:39:040:39:08

and the same town and we would pitch our tent in exactly the same spot

0:39:080:39:12

and I loved it.

0:39:120:39:14

As I wandered about that town, there was

0:39:140:39:16

something that captured my imagination,

0:39:160:39:18

and it seemed like a step up from our tent,

0:39:180:39:20

and I always imagined what it would be like to stay there.

0:39:200:39:23

They were fibro beach shacks, just like these ones.

0:39:230:39:27

'Bounded by 14 sandy beaches,

0:39:310:39:33

'the coastal village of Currarong has a unique claim to fame.

0:39:330:39:38

'It's built almost entirely out of holiday homes.'

0:39:380:39:42

-G'day, Ian.

-Hi, Ben, nice to see you.

-Good to see you.

0:39:420:39:45

'Ian Hoskins is a coastal historian with a love of beach house culture.'

0:39:450:39:50

You know, Ian, standing here,

0:39:500:39:51

this seems to me like the perfect Australian scene -

0:39:510:39:55

the cottage on the beach.

0:39:550:39:56

It feels like it was always like this.

0:39:560:39:59

Well, Australians certainly define themselves today

0:39:590:40:01

as a beach-going people,

0:40:010:40:03

Sun-bronzed Aussies and all the rest,

0:40:030:40:05

but that's quite a recent development,

0:40:050:40:07

it's a 20th century slow development.

0:40:070:40:10

In the late 19th century, there would be very few cottages

0:40:100:40:13

on the New South Wales coast

0:40:130:40:15

with absolute water frontage like this one here.

0:40:150:40:18

Because through the 19th century, the identity that was developing

0:40:180:40:21

was very much one that focused on the bush and the interior.

0:40:210:40:25

We were people who grew sheep and wheat, and dug gold and coal.

0:40:250:40:30

You know, that was the identity that developed.

0:40:300:40:33

So what drove that change from inland to coastal?

0:40:330:40:36

There was a change in attitude.

0:40:360:40:38

There was a revolution, almost,

0:40:380:40:40

at the beginning of the 20th century where we discovered surf bathing.

0:40:400:40:44

We fell in love with the sea.

0:40:440:40:46

Alongside that, you had to have the time to go and enjoy the coast.

0:40:460:40:50

Access was very important.

0:40:500:40:52

Roads, cars, after the Second World War, particularly.

0:40:520:40:56

You had people heading from the towns inland

0:40:560:41:00

directly across to the south coast and just building little houses,

0:41:000:41:05

little shacks, where they could, on the small beaches.

0:41:050:41:08

'The double whammy of the Great Depression

0:41:100:41:12

'and Second World War forced beach holidays to take a back seat.

0:41:120:41:16

'But with the end of the war came enormous social change,

0:41:190:41:23

'including the 40-hour working week.

0:41:230:41:25

'A reform that effectively created the weekend as we know it.'

0:41:250:41:29

So this is pretty original.

0:41:300:41:31

'The humble beach shack now had new status. It became the weekender.'

0:41:310:41:37

So in their time were these houses ever considered fancy?

0:41:400:41:43

The traditional fibro holiday house would never have been fancy.

0:41:430:41:47

You would have been very lucky to own a second property,

0:41:470:41:49

let alone a first property,

0:41:490:41:51

even in those couple of decades after the Second World War.

0:41:510:41:54

It would almost necessarily, unless you were quite wealthy,

0:41:540:41:57

have been a modest dwelling. Fibro fits the bill there.

0:41:570:42:00

It's a vernacular expression of our relationship with the coast.

0:42:000:42:05

They have a design integrity based on their simplicity,

0:42:050:42:08

based on the materials that were used

0:42:080:42:10

because fibro was an easy material to use, easy material to bring in.

0:42:100:42:14

It's lightweight, it's durable, it's practical

0:42:140:42:17

and I love seeing it still exist.

0:42:170:42:19

Currarong, like so many of the little villages dotted along the south

0:42:280:42:31

coast has total postcard appeal.

0:42:310:42:34

A lot of that comes through the preservation of the built

0:42:340:42:37

environment just as it is.

0:42:370:42:38

So much so that that means any building from here south to the

0:42:390:42:43

Victorian border, there is nothing over three stories.

0:42:430:42:46

That means nothing taller than the trees - sounds perfect to me.

0:42:460:42:50

'Stretching north from the Shoalhaven delta,

0:43:090:43:13

'the expanse of Seven Mile Beach slopes gently to the sea.

0:43:130:43:16

'Its hard, compact sand, long,

0:43:160:43:18

'an irresistible draw card to those with the need for speed.'

0:43:180:43:23

In the 1920s and '30s,

0:43:240:43:26

this was one of the most famous beaches in the whole of Australia.

0:43:260:43:30

It was the great age of speed and Seven Mile Beach, with its long,

0:43:300:43:34

straight stretch of hard-packed sand,

0:43:340:43:36

was the best natural beach track for car racing in the entire country.

0:43:360:43:40

Nowadays, it's a national park

0:43:410:43:43

but, just for the day, we have been allowed to wind back the clock.

0:43:430:43:46

It's like being in an old aircraft, than being in a car.

0:43:480:43:52

More like flying.

0:43:530:43:55

'Before December 1929,

0:43:590:44:02

'the Australian speed record was a ripping 107mph.

0:44:020:44:06

'It was held by an engineer, Don Harkness, who teamed up with

0:44:100:44:13

'a driver known as Wizard Smith for his magical powers behind the wheel.'

0:44:130:44:19

I'm waiting in a few moments to attempt to break

0:44:190:44:23

a world land speed record and I feel very confident of success.

0:44:230:44:28

Cheerio.

0:44:280:44:30

Don Harkness and Wizard Smith brought their home-made car,

0:44:300:44:33

the Anzac, down here.

0:44:330:44:35

In those days, attempts on the speed record often ended in the cemetery.

0:44:350:44:39

You look at this place

0:44:390:44:41

and you have to think they must have been a bit mad.

0:44:410:44:44

You take a look at their car, and you know they were mad.

0:44:440:44:48

'For a record breaker, the Anzac was a DIY deathtrap.

0:44:500:44:53

'A V12 Rolls-Royce airplane engine,

0:44:540:44:57

'bolted into a huge Cadillac chassis.

0:44:570:44:59

'On the first attempt, the Anzac hit a bump in the sand

0:45:000:45:04

'and took off, becoming airborne.

0:45:040:45:07

'Clambering out, a shaken Wizard called it a day.

0:45:070:45:10

'But the very next day, with Don by his side,

0:45:100:45:13

'the Wizard had another go and hit a new record

0:45:130:45:17

'of 128mph.'

0:45:170:45:19

'Speed had become a social currency and the speedsters

0:45:270:45:30

'and their cars - stars.'

0:45:300:45:33

The thing that's good about this car...

0:45:380:45:41

'Tim Shellshear is the proud owner of this grand Crossley Mercedes.

0:45:410:45:45

'Originally owned by one Mrs JAS Jones who, at 43 years old,

0:45:450:45:51

'became Australia's Queen of Speed

0:45:510:45:53

'when she decided to use the family Crossley as a race car.'

0:45:530:45:57

Mrs Jones put herself in as driver.

0:45:570:46:01

Now, the organisers promptly banned her because she was a woman.

0:46:010:46:04

That led to a significant uprising within women and they reversed

0:46:040:46:08

their edict and she was allowed to drive and, in fact, did very well.

0:46:080:46:14

The Sydney Morning Herald said at the end of it

0:46:140:46:16

she drove as well as many of the men in the Commonwealth.

0:46:160:46:19

All right. Praise indeed at that time.

0:46:190:46:22

An extraordinary woman, in fact.

0:46:220:46:24

'Kent Patrick's bright blue '37 Bugatti has been

0:46:270:46:30

'restored from components of a famous 1929 37A Bugatti that also

0:46:300:46:36

'raced on this beach.'

0:46:360:46:38

On a good day, what is this car capable of?

0:46:380:46:41

About 200km an hour.

0:46:410:46:44

120mph.

0:46:440:46:46

-What does that feel like?

-Terrifying!

0:46:460:46:50

Absolutely terrifying.

0:46:500:46:52

'For the first time in 80 years,

0:46:540:46:56

'these glorious old cars are back on the beach that made them famous.'

0:46:560:47:00

This is the era of motoring that a chap has to dress properly for.

0:47:010:47:06

Hence the leather coat - but wait until you see this.

0:47:080:47:11

Here's the piece de resistance -

0:47:110:47:14

flying helmet and goggles.

0:47:140:47:17

Toot-toot!

0:47:200:47:22

Permission to come aboard.

0:47:220:47:24

As you say, this was really just designed to race.

0:47:390:47:42

130mph is definitely terrifying.

0:47:420:47:45

I'm acutely aware of how many things there are to impale

0:47:500:47:53

-yourself on, if anything was to go wrong.

-Yes.

0:47:530:47:56

'After the teeth rattling speed of the Bugatti, I'm looking

0:48:040:48:08

'forward to the grace of the Crossley.'

0:48:080:48:10

This car is a bona fide piece of coastal motoring history.

0:48:120:48:15

You've only got to see it.

0:48:150:48:17

You've only got to sit inside it to understand why people get completely

0:48:170:48:20

consumed by owning them and, more particularly, by driving them.

0:48:200:48:24

There is something undeniably special about historic cars.

0:48:240:48:28

What is it that never goes out of fashion?

0:48:280:48:31

I'll tell you.

0:48:310:48:33

It's style.

0:48:330:48:34

I have to say that for myself I feel like Toad of Toad Hall!

0:48:360:48:39

Next time...

0:48:540:48:55

In the Pilbara,

0:48:550:48:56

palaeontologist Tim Flannery enters a hot zone from the Cold War.

0:48:560:49:01

We're getting a significant reading off the Geiger counter.

0:49:010:49:05

That's in the red zone.

0:49:050:49:06

We join an elite team of welders who practise their alchemy underwater.

0:49:060:49:11

It's pretty treacherous.

0:49:110:49:13

And I help to park an ocean giant.

0:49:130:49:16

-A metre?

-Yeah.

0:49:160:49:17

-Between the bottom of this monster and the seabed?

-Yes.

0:49:170:49:20

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