The Netherlands Coast


The Netherlands

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We're in the Netherlands.

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A fortified shore.

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This is the front line of a conflict with the sea.

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For centuries the Dutch have battled to build a coastline like no other.

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A wind-powered landscape,

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lined with a carpet of colourful blooms

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and extraordinary constructions.

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This is Coast...and beyond.

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The Netherlands may be brand-new territory for Coast,

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but it seems rather familiar to me.

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There's something strangely unreal about these flat landscapes,

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borrowed from the sea

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and compressed by this enormous sky.

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It reminds me of where I grew up in Norfolk.

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We share the North Sea with the Netherlands.

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So we're being nosey neighbours -

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going Dutch to see what we might copy

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to make the most of our own coast.

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They don't just live beside the sea here, they live under it.

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A third of Dutch homes are below sea level.

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Huge banks hold the water back.

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They rearrange their coast to suit themselves.

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Channel the sea, harness the winds,

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build mega-ports.

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The Dutch are old masters at making new land from the waves.

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We've such sights to see, on a shore full or surprises!

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Our journey will take us to the border with Germany

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and the island of Rottumerplaat,

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the coast cutting into the heart of the Netherlands.

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But we start at the small coastal town of Ouwerkerk.

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This is the province of Zeeland, "Sea-land".

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We share this sea with the Dutch, for better or worse.

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In 1953, the east coast of Britain was battered by a terrifying storm.

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307 Britons died,

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and over 30,000 were forced to flee as the North Sea rushed in.

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Here, on the Dutch lowlands, the devastation was even worse.

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The '53 flood was a national catastrophe.

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NEWSREEL: Never in living memory have the Dutch suffered such a disaster.

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The seas, lashed by a mighty wind, broke through the dykes

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and poured in to swamp the countryside.

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The flood left 1,800 dead and many more homeless.

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The tragedy renewed an age-old conflict with the sea

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that the Dutch are still fighting, 60 years on.

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School trips teach the next generation to take up the struggle.

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SHE SPEAKS DUTCH

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At this memorial to the flood victims,

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they hear from those who fought for their lives.

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SHE SPEAKS DUTCH

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Mina Verton was the same age as these children

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the night the waters came.

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In 1953, her family were caught up in a desperate race against time,

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as water sped towards their home.

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With little warning of the deluge, they were trapped.

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What happened to you on the night of the flood?

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NEWSREEL: Aircraft fly in supplies for the people still to be moved.

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British, American and Belgian pilots keep up a shuttle service

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in helicopters, to relieve the many isolated villages

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cut off from contact with the areas of safety.

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I've got a map here which shows the parts of the Netherlands

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hit by the 1953 disaster.

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All parts in green were under water,

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and it's shocking to see how much of the delta was affected.

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Through the green you can see entire road networks, villages.

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In just six hours, 700 square miles were completely submerged.

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Because much of the Netherlands is below sea level,

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when the protective walls failed in 1953,

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the impact was worse here than in Britain.

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So for 40 years, the Dutch beavered away,

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spending billions on hi tech schemes,

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ringing their coast in concrete and rock defences.

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At its heart, with 62 floodgates, the mighty Oosterscheldedam,

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one of the engineering wonders of the world.

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But it could be just ten years before the low-lying Netherlands

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need a new plan, as sea levels rise.

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We share the same threat.

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Will our shore one day share fortifications

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on the same massive scale?

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Although we often say "Holland",

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the Netherlands has 12 different provinces.

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Only two are actually called Holland.

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In the south is the resort of Scheveningen.

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Given Holland's watery history, something odd is happening here.

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People are on the beach, enjoying themselves.

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There's a watchful eye kept on the approaching waves.

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But the Dutch don't hide behind their sea walls.

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Miranda's come to find out

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what Netherlanders like to do beside the sea.

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Sea bathing started here around 200 years ago,

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about the time it was really taking off in Brighton,

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and this is a photograph of this resort some years later.

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In fact, it could be Brighton,

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apart from these extraordinary wicker chairs on the beach.

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Like our early resorts,

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Scheveningen started as an exclusive retreat for the rich.

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But, in the late 19th century, the tourist trade developed.

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In 1885, this grand hotel, The Kurhaus, was opened,

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nearly ten years before the Blackpool Tower was built.

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So, what are we looking at?

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The Dutch version of Blackpool?

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Or perhaps it's Brighton below the sea.

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Or maybe something else altogether. I need a local guide to the locals.

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Philip. Hi, Miranda. Nice to meet you.

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Philip Walkate is a keen observer of the Dutch at their leisure.

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We work hard, we enjoy partying.

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On a nice summer day,

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when this is packed, everybody will have their own square metre of sand.

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Very organised, very structured.

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Yes, because there's not a lot of space,

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and half the country will go to the beach on a nice day.

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So this is mine, that's yours,

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we'll be fine together as long as we don't get involved with each other.

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-Quite like a class system, would you say?

-We have class system as well.

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-And we're in the right part of the beach for your class now.

-Oh, good, thank you!

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The posh people go over there and this is where partying goes on.

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I'm curious.

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Do the Dutch share any of our seaside traditions,

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like building sand castles?

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This a sand castle extraordinaire, isn't it?

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-I made this this morning for you.

-I don't think so!

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This is incredible! We'd never see something like this in England.

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It represents things you can do in the water.

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This big guy here sunbathing. Was that modelled on you?

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The Mayor of Amsterdam. This is all he does, just lying in the sun.

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No day out at the seaside's complete without a snack.

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Phillip's promised me a real Dutch delight.

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This is raw herring.

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Wow, is he just gutting it?

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Cutting and gutting it, taking off the head,

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you leave the tail, cos you use that to eat it.

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Not all at once!

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Mmm, amazing!

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It's like the best sushi ever.

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Is this a good time of year to eat it this? Is it a seasonal product?

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Yes, this is actually the new Dutch herring,

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-the fatter it is, everybody gets more excited.

-It's very good.

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The fat Dutch herring is much more than a delicacy. It's a celebrity.

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Every July, the first catch is celebrated with a festival.

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Washed down with lashings of the potent local tipple.

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I'll pour you some Dutch Gin. Jenever, it's like a schnapps.

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I've got to drink this as well as this. It's only ten in the morning.

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Yeah, you can just take a sip. You can, like, knock it up

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or you can just take a sip. You want to knock it up?

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Why not?

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Wow.

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'I'm beginning to see what draws the Dutch back to the beach.'

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I could do this all day.

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In a land where the people guard their coastline closely,

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here, at least, the Dutch take time out from hostilities with the sea.

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The locals have ingenious solutions for living in their "Waterworld".

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Tunnelling under it.

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Floating on it.

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And draining it dry.

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And sometimes, just rising above it all.

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MUSIC: "Jump Around" by House Of Pain

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It took off 500 years ago.

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The Dutch wanted to get about without getting their feet wet.

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Now it's an international sport.

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It's called Fierljeppen - far leaping.

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Who leaps farthest, wins.

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I'm Jaco de Groot.

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I'm Dymphie van Rooijen.

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She's running as fast as possible. Come on - run faster, faster!

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Run and climb up, hup, go, go, go, yeah, good!

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Climb on! Wow!

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I can't climb faster!

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The water, it's two metres deep.

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Nae! Help!

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And, yes, it's very cold.

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Oh!

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The pole is standing in the water, so we run about 30 km an hour.

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And then you run to a pole standing still, and then you have to grab it.

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DYMPHIE SHOUTS ENCOURAGEMENT

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And you have to climb it in five seconds.

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-It's just like you fly.

-Yeah.

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We're working our way up the Dutch coast.

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This land's famous for being flat, with walls holding back the water.

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Sea dykes are as Dutch as windmills, and a tale of doom

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with one of those dykes turned a local lad into a legend.

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I'm on his trail.

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The Hero of Haarlem.

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The town's honoured him with a statue.

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And this is it - a boy with his finger in the dyke.

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The schoolboy whose self-sacrifice saved his village.

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It's as Dutch a story as you'll discover.

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Or so you'd think!

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This little boy was really made famous by an American author,

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Mary Mapes Dodge, who included the story of the boy and the dyke

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in her 19th-century book, "Hans Brinker Or The Silver Skates".

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Mapes Dodge never even visited the Netherlands

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but as her fictional tale caught on,

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the locals erected a statue to satisfy curious fans.

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The young Hero of Haarlem has been adopted by the Dutch

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as an emblem of their struggle with the sea.

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It's ironic that the story was imported here from the USA,

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because the city's name, Haarlem, went the other way.

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The neighbourhood of Harlem in Manhattan is a reminder that,

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around 400 years ago, New York was called New Amsterdam.

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Part of the Dutch trading empire that reached New Zealand,

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named after their province of Zeeland.

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Today they celebrate their sea-faring heritage.

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It brought enormous wealth on the wind.

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The golden age of sail saw the birth of global trade

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and the city of Haarlem prospered.

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Here coastal commerce fuelled a flower power revolution,

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17th-century style.

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It's a story of boom and bust that's brought historian Tessa Dunlop

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to the most Dutch of Dutch industries.

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Within sniffing distance of the sea, there's another ocean on this coast.

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MUSIC: "Tulips From Amsterdam"

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An ocean of tulips.

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# When it's spring again I'll bring again

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# Tulips from Amsterdam... #

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You can't get much more Dutch than this. There's even a windmill.

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Well, sort of!

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Most of Britain's tulips start life in Dutch soil.

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In April and May, the northern coast of the Netherlands blossoms.

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A carpet of colour.

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Carlos van Der Veek's family's

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been growing bulbs on this shore for years.

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Why is it that tulips grow so well here in Holland especially?

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It's mainly because of the climate.

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The sea brings in his influence,

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the springs are cool, the winters are mild,

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and that's ideal for tulips.

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Sadly, these beautiful blooms will never brighten someone's birthday.

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Their heads are lopped off.

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These tulips are grown for the bulb, not the bloom.

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The flowers become mulch to feed a billion-pound bulb industry.

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So tulip bulbs today have a value

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but four centuries ago, it seems they were almost priceless.

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It's said that trading in these nearly bankrupted the nation.

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Turn back the pages of history to the early 17th century

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and the tulip, a wild flower from Asia,

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had recently arrived in Europe.

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MUSIC: "Tiptoe Through The Tulips"

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Rich merchants wanted them at any price.

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Dutch dealers went so bananas for bulbs,

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they were portrayed as greedy monkeys.

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It became known as Tulip Mania.

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The story goes that, when the price of the bulbs crashed,

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so did the economy.

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Markets that outgrow common sense are familiar now,

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but does this tale of bloom and bust stand up?

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I want to find out the real truth behind Tulip Mania.

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Historian Anne Goldgar has spent years studying Tulip Mania,

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using original 17th-century sources.

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Why, Anne, did Holland of all places become tulip country?

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Because they had access, first of all, to them

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because of the fact the Netherlands was a very important trading nation,

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and there were a lot of people interested in collecting exotica.

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People in the 17th century wanted to have tulips

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which were striped or speckled,

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and you can see that in this tulip catalogue, which was made in 1637.

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So this is rather like having, I don't know, the right diamond today?

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Yes, absolutely.

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This 17th-century floral bling was prized for its rarity.

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Tulips are tricky to grow. It takes seven years from a seed.

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In the time of Tulip Mania, bulb farming was a bit of a lottery,

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a gamble that Dutch traders hoped would win them a jackpot.

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MUSIC: "Money (That's What I Want)" by The Flying Lizzards

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So how did that work?

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Let's see what we might learn from the modern flower market.

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I've come with Anne to Aalsmeer, the world's biggest flower auction.

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Fascinating, it almost reminds me of The Price Is Right. You've got the men here bidding.

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At the bottom, the women are showing off,

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stroking their bunches of flowers.

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This is a proper Dutch auction.

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The clock counts down the price.

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The first trader to press their button stops it

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and pays what's on the dial.

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Turn back the clock some 400 years,

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and it's said the market went haywire.

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How do these modern traders feel about Tulip Mania?

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The moment you still see that when a new tulip variety is produced,

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then we feel still a bit of the Tulip Mania is still going on.

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Four centuries after Tulip Mania, traders are still tense.

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In the 17th century, bulbs were bought in a frenzy,

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betting they'd go up in value before they were out of the ground.

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The market did boom out of control.

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Single bulbs went for the price of a grand house.

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But did the bust nearly bankrupt the nation?

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They come to a head on 7th of February 1637.

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At that point, someone says, "I have a bulb to sell,"

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and nobody bought it in Haarlem. At that point people started to worry

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and prices did fall dramatically, that is true.

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As for bankruptcies,

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I have found no-one who went bankrupt because of Tulip Mania.

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Anne's research shows society didn't crash when the tulip bubble burst.

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So where's that story come from?

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This book, "Extraordinary Popular Delusions And The Madness of Crowds"

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did much to make the myth.

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200 years after Tulip Mania,

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the author, Scotsman Charles Mackay, wrote:

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'Substantial merchants were reduced almost to beggary,

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'and many a representative of a noble line

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'saw the fortunes of his house ruined.'

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Mackay was printing the legend

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perpetuated by the original paintings

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that made mischievous fun of tulip traders.

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Four centuries on, the bulb market is blooming,

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but reminders of darker days haunt the fields.

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This is a picture of the Semper Augustus,

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one of the most sought-after bulbs of the Tulip Mania period.

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But weirdly, you'd struggle to find a tulip like this growing today

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because in fact the flaming striped effect is a sign

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that the plant had a virus that could spread

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and infect the rest of the crop.

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So what was once so fashionable,

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now would immediately be dug out and thrown away.

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The odd offending bloom still pops up,

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once highly prized, now despised!

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It seems the Netherlands will never close the book on Tulip Mania.

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I've reached the mid-point of my journey at Lelystadt.

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A young city born out of the waves,

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it harbours a reminder of an older age...

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..when the Dutch began building boats to build an empire.

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This is an exact copy of a 17th-century original.

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The Batavia was launched in 1628,

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not to do battle, but to do business.

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This ship was part of the Dutch East India Company -

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an organisation so vast,

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it's been called the first multi-national corporation.

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Craft like this carried spices from Asia.

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They made the Dutch East India Company very wealthy indeed.

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Success set the Netherlands on a collision course

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with neighbours across the North Sea - the English.

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I've got a copy of a painting here.

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It shows a daring raid in 1667 by the Dutch on the English Navy.

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The English ships are on fire.

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All this happened just outside London. Pretty cheeky.

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That naval humiliation was one of many in the Anglo-Dutch wars

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that rumbled on throughout the 17th century.

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Wars that the Dutch won.

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So how did they beat the Royal Navy?

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Did the secret lie in their ships?

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They're building one here to find out.

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It's the baby of Aryan Klein.

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This is a 17th-century Admiralty ship

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and she was specifically designed to wage war at sea against the English.

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What was the difference between the Dutch maritime power and English maritime power?

0:25:510:25:56

We were geared up for ship-building in a huge way,

0:25:560:25:58

so we could produce ships at quite a fast rate.

0:25:580:26:00

So you could mass-produce ships like this.

0:26:000:26:04

Almost mass-produce - a ship like this would be ready within a year.

0:26:040:26:07

How could the Dutch build a ship in just a year

0:26:070:26:10

when the English couldn't?

0:26:100:26:12

What was the key to this mass-production?

0:26:120:26:15

MUSIC: Theme to "Camberwick Green"

0:26:150:26:19

Windmills - lots of them!

0:26:190:26:22

Before steam power, there was wind power.

0:26:230:26:26

If you can use a mill to pump water and to grind wheat,

0:26:310:26:35

why not use it to saw wood as well?

0:26:350:26:37

During the Netherlands' golden age of sail,

0:26:400:26:42

hundreds of windmills fed the shipbuilding industry

0:26:420:26:46

with a production line of cut wood,

0:26:460:26:48

enabling mass-production of ships

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almost a century before the Industrial Revolution.

0:26:520:26:56

The trade in Asian spices fuelled the Dutch Empire.

0:27:080:27:12

Links to Asia left a legacy in the nation's appetites.

0:27:140:27:19

In Britain we might go for an Indian meal.

0:27:190:27:23

In the Netherlands, they go for an Indonesian.

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My name is Wai Man Lo. I run an Indonesian restaurant.

0:27:370:27:40

My family is from New Guinea.

0:27:400:27:42

Indonesia used to be a Dutch colony.

0:27:420:27:45

After the independence, a lot of people from Indonesia,

0:27:450:27:50

they came to Holland.

0:27:500:27:51

My dad came in the '60s. He started a restaurant in 1975.

0:27:510:27:57

My dad is a really hard-working man.

0:27:570:28:00

Looking at this picture, I feel kind of proud of him.

0:28:000:28:04

This kind of market really reflects how the people live here in Holland.

0:28:070:28:13

It's like a big melting pot.

0:28:130:28:15

Most of the market stand holders are Moroccan or Turkish.

0:28:170:28:23

We buy some fish at these markets.

0:28:230:28:26

We like to keep our fish, like, pretty fresh.

0:28:260:28:29

Most of the people in our restaurant order the rice tables.

0:28:320:28:36

The rice table is really a Dutch invention.

0:28:360:28:39

The Dutch colonists who went to Indonesia,

0:28:390:28:43

they liked to taste a bit of everything.

0:28:430:28:46

We have, like, beef dishes all the way to chicken and vegetables.

0:28:460:28:50

When tourists ask what is typical, like, Dutch food,

0:28:510:28:55

they usually tell the tourists, well, try Indonesian food.

0:28:550:28:59

The sandy isles of the Northern Netherlands.

0:29:100:29:13

They subtly alter their shape with each new tide.

0:29:130:29:18

It's one battle between land and sea

0:29:180:29:20

the Dutch have decided to stay out of.

0:29:200:29:23

Here, they've encouraged nature to do its own thing.

0:29:270:29:31

Very few people are allowed to set foot on remote Rottumerplaat.

0:29:360:29:41

But Miranda's been given permission to look for signs of life.

0:29:410:29:47

This is the sort of spot that seems to sum up

0:29:550:29:58

"getting away from it all".

0:29:580:30:01

But as you walk across the dunes,

0:30:010:30:03

there's more than sand beneath your feet.

0:30:030:30:06

Concrete!

0:30:060:30:09

Loads of it.

0:30:090:30:12

Yes, you've guessed it, like much of the Dutch coast,

0:30:120:30:15

this island was built by the Dutch,

0:30:150:30:18

or at least started by them.

0:30:180:30:20

You can still see the line of a sea wall

0:30:200:30:23

built in the 1950s to trap shifting sands.

0:30:230:30:27

The island was encouraged to grow

0:30:270:30:29

as part of another land reclamation scheme.

0:30:290:30:33

But there's no-one here.

0:30:340:30:37

By the 1990s, wilderness proved more desirable than new living space.

0:30:410:30:47

Rottumerplaat was abandoned to nature.

0:30:470:30:50

Oyster catchers, spoonbills and common terns are amongst the birds

0:30:570:31:02

feeding on the mudflats, rich in shellfish.

0:31:020:31:06

One of the few humans allowed to come here on a regular basis

0:31:110:31:16

is naturalist Hans Roersma.

0:31:160:31:19

Everywhere you look, there are birds.

0:31:200:31:22

And a big group of oyster catchers down here, some have just taken off,

0:31:220:31:26

and the sun on their tummies,

0:31:260:31:29

it's just like glitter.

0:31:290:31:31

It's fabulous!

0:31:310:31:32

And if they start flying, it's one new, big animal.

0:31:320:31:36

They feed individually

0:31:360:31:37

but now they assemble.

0:31:370:31:39

You can see birds which have just arrived,

0:31:390:31:41

eat like hell, they go on probing

0:31:410:31:44

and they eat and they eat.

0:31:440:31:47

I can see why you love it here. It's an incredibly beautiful place.

0:31:500:31:54

But why is it so special to you?

0:31:540:31:55

We live in the most densely populated area of western Europe.

0:31:550:32:00

And we have a few islands reserved for nature

0:32:000:32:04

and I'm allowed to live and work there.

0:32:040:32:06

-You're a very lucky man.

-Yeah, yeah!

0:32:060:32:09

The Dutch have been at war with the sea for centuries.

0:32:150:32:19

But here, where they've learned to live together,

0:32:190:32:23

they put on quite a spectacle.

0:32:230:32:25

The sweeping sand flats make for lovely, relaxed walking,

0:32:400:32:45

but getting between the islands isn't so easy.

0:32:450:32:48

All this sand makes it impossible to get a boat in here.

0:32:500:32:54

But the Dutch have come up with a typically ingenious idea.

0:32:540:32:58

Take the bus to your boat.

0:32:580:33:01

This truck is known as the Vliehors Express,

0:33:020:33:06

and it's one of the ways to get from island to island.

0:33:060:33:09

MUSIC: "Van Der Valk" Theme

0:33:090:33:13

PASSENGERS SING

0:33:330:33:37

This bus ride gets more and more otherworldly.

0:33:490:33:53

We've just stopped at a driftwood stockade

0:33:530:33:56

in the middle of this sand desert.

0:33:560:33:59

Looks like an art installation.

0:33:590:34:01

Even in this natural paradise,

0:34:010:34:04

the Dutch can't stop reclaiming stuff from the sea.

0:34:040:34:08

Wonderful! It's a museum of found objects -

0:34:100:34:14

fish crates, computer monitors,

0:34:140:34:16

buoys, life belts, signs.

0:34:160:34:20

This unusual bus journey has a suitably unlikely bus stop.

0:34:260:34:30

This peculiar walkway is actually a jetty.

0:34:310:34:34

At the far end, the water is deep enough for a ferry.

0:34:340:34:39

Sand and sea together, combining to conjure up something truly special.

0:34:410:34:47

It's a delightfully Dutch conundrum that sums up our journey.

0:34:470:34:52

Life on the margins between sea and shore

0:34:520:34:56

can create a flair and resourcefulness that will rise above any challenge.

0:34:560:35:01

The Dutch have learned to live with the sea,

0:35:030:35:05

to recognise its opportunities and to meet its threats.

0:35:050:35:09

As sea levels rise

0:35:090:35:11

and the search for novel solutions becomes more urgent,

0:35:110:35:15

I reckon we can all learn a thing or two from the Netherlands.

0:35:150:35:17

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