Thomas Vaughan Jones Edwards Cefn Gwlad


Thomas Vaughan Jones Edwards

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-Do many of you recognise this place?

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-I don't think so.

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-I'm in the Montesquiou area...

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-..in the south of France...

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-..not far from the Spanish border.

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-Perhaps that's why the weather's

-so fine.

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-I'm at Pis Farm...

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-..the home of Thomas Vaughan Jones,

-his wife Sally and their children.

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-Thomas's roots are in the Bala area.

-He's farmed in the Vale of Clwyd.

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-Why did he come to France?

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-You'll find out when I find him!

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-He certainly lives in a lovely area.

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-November 2006

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-This field has been prepared.

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-Will you be growing barley here,

-or oats, or wheat, or what?

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-Barley.

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-Tell me, what are those

-little buildings I can see?

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-The little sheds?

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-About 50 years ago, everyone

-worked out in the fields...

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-..and no-one had watches.

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-A bell was rung in town at noon,

-so everyone knew it was lunchtime...

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-..and they sheltered from the sun

-in these buildings.

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-These fields were worked by hand,

-the same as at home.

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-There were lots of labourers.

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-There aren't many hedges,

-just crops.

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-There aren't any animals

-here at all.

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-Not many animals.

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-There isn't a boundary

-between you and the road.

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-In summer, the temperature

-reaches 110 degrees...

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-..so animals aren't generally

-kept outside.

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-Animals are kept inside most of the

-time and fed on hay and silage.

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-You have to grow things you can use

-in order to make money.

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-There are only a few hedges.

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-Do you have to cut them regularly?

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-The scheme I'm on

-is similar to SSSIs at home...

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-..and I cut them once a year.

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-Roundup - no chance.

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-Roundup - no chance.

-

-Why is this an SSSI?

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-Why is this an SSSI?

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-It looks like good grazing land.

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-There are rare orchids

-and things like that.

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-The rules state that I can't graze

-those fields or the hedges...

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-..between April and September.

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-I lose that grazing time.

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-The trees are like trees in Wales -

-oak trees.

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-I've been cutting those

-before the hedge cutters come.

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-I want to put up an electric fence

-from there to the bottom.

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-I usually put up pig fencing...

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-..but I have problems

-with the wild boars that live here.

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-They're about that big.

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-They run at the pig fencing

-and take down 50 or 60 metres.

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-Do they eat acorns?

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-Yes, they do.

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-Also, with pig netting,

-you put posts up in the winter...

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-..put up the fence, pull it tight,

-beautiful job.

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-The following summer,

-when it's 110 degrees...

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-..the ground dries out and opens up

-and the posts fall over...

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-..and the pig netting's gone.

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-So I'm putting electric fencing

-over there.

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-Are you allowed to kill badgers?

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-Are you allowed to kill badgers?

-

-Yes, I've got permission...

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-Yes, I've got permission...

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-..during two months

-of the year only.

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-There are seasons

-and they're strictly kept.

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-During two months -

-February and March, I think.

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-I can kill them during two months.

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-I can kill them during two months.

-

-So they're out of the way...

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-So they're out of the way...

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-..before cattle are let out.

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-..before cattle are let out.

-

-I've got permission, here.

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-I've got permission, here.

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-If there's a problem,

-you write to the Ministry...

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-..and they tell you to carry on.

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-..and they tell you to carry on.

-

-Really?!

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-Really?!

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-You must have relatives

-working with the government!

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-They look after you!

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-They look after you!

-

-In France...

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-In France...

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-..lots of people

-live in rural areas...

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-..and there are lots of farmers,

-more than in Britain.

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-It's a very big country.

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-There are many more farmers

-and they have more muscle.

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-Why did you come here?

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-You're from the Vale of Clwyd

-originally.

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-Bala first, then the Vale of Clwyd.

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-Bala first, then the Vale of Clwyd.

-

-I remember you in Llangynhafal.

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-I remember you in Llangynhafal.

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-You're from that area.

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-You're from that area.

-

-Yes, Llanbedr.

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-Yes, Llanbedr.

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-Why did you and your family

-move here?

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-I had a small farm in Llanbedr...

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-..with friends living next door

-to me on both sides.

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-Buying land there was difficult

-and expensive...

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-..very difficult.

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-Yes, in the Vale of Clwyd.

-Every acre is valuable.

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-One year we went on holiday

-to the north of France.

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-We'd eat our evening meal

-and then walk around town.

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-I happened to see

-an estate agent's office...

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-..so I had a look.

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-The houses were cheap.

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-Ten acres, quite a good price.

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-Twenty acres, quite a good price.

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-So that's how it started.

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-When you first came here,

-you bought this place.

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-How many acres do you have now?

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-How many acres do you have now?

-

-130, here.

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-130, here.

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-Really?

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-If you don't mind me asking...

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-..how much per acre

-would a place like this cost?

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-You've got superb land.

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-You've got superb land.

-

-I bought the place in 1998...

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-I bought the place in 1998...

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-..for 95,000.

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-Euros?

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-Euros?

-

-Pounds.

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-Pounds.

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-The same price as a small house

-at home.

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-95,000.

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-95,000.

-

-Prices have gone up...

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-Prices have gone up...

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-..the same as at home.

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-I have 60 acres on the plain,

-with permission to irrigate.

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-Those 60 acres

-are worth a lot of money.

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-I have about 20 acres of woodland.

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-On the whole, it's quite good.

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-I graze sheep and cattle.

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-When you came here, you left

-your family behind - your mother.

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-Mam and Dad.

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-Dad's in hospital in Dolgellau.

-He's been ill for a long time.

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-Mam still lives in Bala.

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-One sister teaches in Liverpool...

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-..and another sister

-teaches in Warrington.

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-My brother's a train driver -

-third generation train driver.

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-My father and grandfather

-were train drivers.

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-Great Western, the whole lot.

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-Did you start farming

-after leaving school?

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-No. After school

-I went to college in Chester.

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-I was there for a year.

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-I trained to be a PE teacher.

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-I was PE mad.

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-After a year, my friends

-were working and making money...

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-..and I was a bit depressed.

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-Back then, you received grants

-but they weren't much.

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-70 per term or something similar.

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-Weren't you a runner at one time?

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-Weren't you a runner at one time?

-

-I tried.

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-I tried.

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-Tell us what you did.

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-When I was in school in Bala...

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-..I represented Wales

-at cross-country running.

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-I won the 1,500 metres

-in the schools championships...

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-..in Aberystwyth.

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-Aberystwyth?

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-Yes, in Aberystwyth in 1975,

-I think.

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-I was in school at that time too!

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-I also ran at college,

-when I was in Chester.

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-I ran a mile in three minutes

-and 57.9 seconds.

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-I must comment on your hens.

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-Yes, they're out.

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-I'm fattening them.

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-They're for eating.

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-They're special -

-they can weigh up to 5kg.

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-How many children do you have?

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-How many children do you have?

-

-Five children.

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-How many children do you have?

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-Really? You obviously

-get some leisure time, then!

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-The family allowance is good!

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-What are they? Boys, girls?

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-Four boys and one girl.

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-How are they doing,

-now that they're growing up?

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-Your eldest is about 18, isn't he?

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-Your eldest is about 18, isn't he?

-

-He was 18 two weeks ago.

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-He was 18 two weeks ago.

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-What do they do?

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-What do they do?

-

-He's a self-employed carpenter.

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-He's a self-employed carpenter.

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-He's just returned

-after six months in Australia.

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-He was out there working

-and playing rugby.

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-Do they all play rugby?

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-Do they all play rugby?

-

-Yes, they all play rugby...

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-Yes, they all play rugby...

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-..for the same club -

-quite a big club in town.

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-Rugby is popular here.

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-Yes.

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-Farming, rugby and hunting.

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-And eating!

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-And eating!

-

-Amen!

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-Amen!

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-It's true!

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-At noon, the bell rings

-and everyone stops to eat.

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-Three or four courses

-and red wine too.

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-In the evening, at seven o'clock,

-the cafes are full.

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-Half-past seven - they're empty.

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-Do you know why?

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-It's time to eat.

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-French farmers are no different

-from British farmers.

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-They have to diversify...

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-..as Vaughan and his wife Sally

-have done.

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-As has happened in Wales...

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-..they've adapted old farm buildings

-and old houses to create homes.

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-Is this the old, run-down house

-that you bought?

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-Yes. I bought it last year.

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-We've been working on it

-for nearly a year.

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-My wife is the brain behind

-the project and I'm the muscle...

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-..and our son

-is the skilled workforce!

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-Are there buyers interested in it?

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-There's been a lot of interest.

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-We received an offer last week,

-so we have our fingers crossed.

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-It's in the middle of the village.

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-There are shops and a restaurant

-nearby, a garage next door.

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-What was this originally?

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-A cattle market.

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-From the '50s, I think,

-until the '70s.

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-There are photos

-showing the place full of cattle.

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-.

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-888

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-888

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-I've come to the small town

-of Lannemezan...

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-..at the foot of the Pyrenees...

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-..to visit the sheep market.

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-It's different from any other

-sheep market I've been to.

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-I can't understand people talking,

-for a start.

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-There's no auctioneer -

-sales are made face to face.

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-All these people are smiling,

-so things must be working well.

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-Vaughan is looking for a bargain

-to take home.

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-Those men in black coats are buyers,

-are they?

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-Can anyone buy?

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-That's right, yes.

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-THEY SPEAK FRENCH

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-Soixante-quinze euro.

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-This man knows L E Jones

-and everyone else.

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-They buy here too.

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-HE SPEAKS FRENCH

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-Did you sell?

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-Did you sell?

-

-Yes.

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-Yes.

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-Yes.

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-That was extremely slick!

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-A bit of this and a bit of that!

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-A bit of this and a bit of that!

-

-Does he have to pay...?

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-With a big buyer like him,

-there'll be a cheque and a bill.

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-They pay after the sale.

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-That was very slick selling!

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-You know, when you think

-of the old drovers back in Wales...

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-..look how neatly

-these men do their hair!

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-They take time

-over their appearance!

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-It doesn't all go smoothly

-for everyone.

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-Some arrive late.

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-Some can't strike a bargain.

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-And as for others - well... !

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-He says 38kg,

-but the buyer says 25kg!

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-They'll have to weigh them.

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-He says he weighed them

-before he came.

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-They're not 38kg.

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-They're not 38kg.

-

-They're in good condition, though.

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-They're in good condition, though.

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-26kg to 28kg, I'd say.

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-These small ones won't fetch much.

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-58 euros for them all -

-the whole lot.

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-How much is that? 40?

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-How much is that? 40?

-

-58 euros...

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-58 euros...

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-58 euros...

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-You have to use that?

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-You have to use that?

-

-Let's see.

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-Let's see.

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-58 euros - that's 41.

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-That's right.

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-Right?

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-They're only small - about 15kg.

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-If our boys got 41 for lambs

-like those, they'd be laughing.

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-Are these going to Spain

-for slaughter?

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-Yes, lambs for slaughter.

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-Why do they want such small lambs

-in Spain?

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-Do they eat them whole?!

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-Do they eat them whole?!

-

-They serve them whole...

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-Do they eat them whole?!

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-..in restaurants, on a spit.

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-..in restaurants, on a spit.

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-Every week in Lannemezan,

-a street market is held...

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-..where all kinds of things

-are sold.

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-Air travel security restrictions...

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-..meant I couldn't bring my stick

-with me.

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-I was lost without it.

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-There are some over there.

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-There are some over there.

-

-I should have borrowed a fence pole!

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-I should have borrowed a fence pole!

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-These look good.

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-Would you like to try them?

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-Would you like to try them?

-

-They're quite long.

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-That would do. It's long enough.

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-That would do. It's long enough.

-

-Is it too long?

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-Is it too long?

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-A bit.

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-THEY SPEAK FRENCH

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-How much is it?

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-How much is it?

-

-Six euros.

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-Six euros.

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-Six euros. What's that in pounds?

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-Six euros. What's that in pounds?

-

-3 or so.

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-3 or so.

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-THEY SPEAK FRENCH

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-Five euros...

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-..five euros, for you.

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-Five euros? Oh.

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-Thanks very much!

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-There, I'm sorted!

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-I'm lost without a stick -

-I can't even think!

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-Shall we move on?

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-What fish is that?

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-A trout.

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-THEY SPEAK FRENCH

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-You speak the language well.

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-I try!

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-I try!

-

-How long have you been here?

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-How long have you been here?

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-Six years... no, eight years.

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-Time flies.

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-Time flies.

-

-You've learned the language well.

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-You've learned the language well.

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-They sell everything here.

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-Potatoes.

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-Potatoes.

-

-Everything. Onions.

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-Everything. Onions.

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-Lots of cheeses.

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-They sell ewe's milk cheese here.

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-I think it's expensive.

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-18 euros a kilo.

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-9 a kilo, more or less. 10.

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-10 a kilo. That's expensive.

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-You retain some characteristics

-of the Vale of Clwyd!

0:18:320:18:36

-You take note of the prices!

0:18:370:18:40

-Yes, one must be careful!

0:18:400:18:42

-Look at those carrots,

-We've got better carrots at home.

0:18:430:18:48

-They're poor.

0:18:480:18:49

-They're poor.

-

-Yes. We've got better carrots.

0:18:490:18:49

-Yes. We've got better carrots.

0:18:490:18:51

-The smells are making me hungry.

0:18:510:18:54

-A meat stall.

-You can't beat meat!

0:18:550:18:58

-All kinds of pig products.

0:18:580:19:01

-That's horse meat!

0:19:010:19:02

-Have you ever eaten horse meat?

0:19:020:19:03

-Have you ever eaten horse meat?

-

-Yes, several times.

0:19:030:19:05

-Have you ever eaten horse meat?

0:19:050:19:05

-I've eaten it once.

0:19:050:19:07

-I found it too sweet.

0:19:070:19:08

-I found it too sweet.

-

-Yes, it is rather sweet.

0:19:080:19:09

-Yes, it is rather sweet.

0:19:090:19:10

-A bit sweet, but lovely.

0:19:100:19:13

-The smells tell you the food's good.

0:19:180:19:21

-It's hot too - made this morning.

0:19:220:19:24

-That's a lovely flan.

0:19:240:19:26

-THEY SPEAK FRENCH

0:19:260:19:28

-It smells good.

0:19:360:19:37

-It smells good.

-

-Extremely good.

0:19:370:19:37

-Extremely good.

0:19:370:19:38

-Do you knock their prices down

-every week?!

0:19:400:19:44

-I haven't had breakfast yet!

0:19:440:19:46

-This is lunch and that's breakfast!

0:19:460:19:47

-This is lunch and that's breakfast!

-

-There's no point setting a price...

0:19:470:19:49

-There's no point setting a price...

0:19:490:19:49

-..because you haggle!

0:19:500:19:51

-THEY SPEAK FRENCH

0:19:520:19:53

-She looks like she could be Welsh.

0:19:550:19:58

-Yes, same type.

0:19:580:20:00

-They're very nice people.

0:20:000:20:02

-Merci beaucoup.

0:20:050:20:06

-Hard work, fresh air and good food.

0:20:290:20:33

-They're all an intrinsic part

-of life in this area.

0:20:330:20:38

-They're also very keen

-on playing rugby.

0:20:400:20:44

-They start playing

-at a very young age...

0:20:440:20:48

-..and that's true

-of Vaughan and Sally's sons.

0:20:480:20:51

-Rugby is a big thing here.

0:20:540:20:56

-Very big. It's almost a religion.

0:20:570:21:00

-From children who start before

-they're six, right up to seniors.

0:21:010:21:05

-They're all here together today.

0:21:060:21:08

-All the professional players

-at the rugby club...

0:21:090:21:12

-..have to come here every Wednesday

-to teach the children.

0:21:120:21:17

-They teach the children.

0:21:180:21:19

-The professional players

-have to do this?

0:21:200:21:23

-That's right. All of them.

0:21:230:21:26

-That guy over there

-is an ex-professional.

0:21:260:21:30

-All of them put something back

-into the club.

0:21:300:21:34

-They finish with the club

-but they come back to teach.

0:21:340:21:39

-There are usually

-200 to 250 children...

0:21:390:21:42

-..playing here each Wednesday.

0:21:420:21:44

-It's a good place to play...

0:21:440:21:47

-..and there's a harness racing track

-around the perimeter.

0:21:470:21:51

-Yes, harness racing.

0:21:510:21:52

-Yes, harness racing.

-

-This is the hippodrome in... Auch.

0:21:520:21:52

-This is the hippodrome in... Auch.

0:21:520:21:54

-Pronounced "Osh"!

0:21:540:21:56

-I'll get it right eventually!

0:21:560:21:58

-I've called it "Och" and "Ouch"!

0:21:590:22:01

-I know her too -

-she's a dinner lady at the school.

0:22:020:22:07

-The boys who play rugby

-are given more food than the others!

0:22:070:22:12

-They're brought up with rugby,

-aren't they?

0:22:140:22:17

-Yes, and it's full contact,

-not touch-tackle like at home.

0:22:170:22:22

-They start with full tackling

-before they're six.

0:22:220:22:26

-Some of them, like my children,

-live 20km away...

0:22:270:22:30

-..so it's quite a large

-catchment area.

0:22:330:22:36

-They don't just know children

-from the town...

0:22:360:22:39

-..but from the wider area too.

0:22:390:22:42

-.

0:22:420:22:43

-888

0:22:540:22:54

-888

0:22:540:22:56

-You can see half of France

-from here!

0:23:020:23:05

-Is it mostly sheep you keep up here?

0:23:060:23:10

-And lower down.

0:23:100:23:11

-And lower down.

-

-But they graze up here too?

0:23:110:23:11

-But they graze up here too?

0:23:110:23:13

-Yes.

0:23:140:23:15

-What happens is...

0:23:150:23:17

-..this area dries up in the sun.

0:23:180:23:21

-Yes.

0:23:210:23:22

-Marvellous views.

0:23:250:23:27

-Those fields

-right down the bottom...

0:23:270:23:30

-..I cut them all for hay

-before the end of May.

0:23:300:23:35

-Before the end of May.

0:23:350:23:37

-I leave them about a month

-and then I put sheep in there.

0:23:370:23:43

-Do you fatten lambs on that grass,

-or do you use a creep?

0:23:430:23:48

-No, everything gets fattened

-indoors. That's what's wanted.

0:23:490:23:52

-I have technicians who come round.

0:23:520:23:55

-They want rose meat,

-not red meat like we get at home.

0:23:550:24:00

-What breed of sheep do you keep?

0:24:010:24:04

-Purebreds, they call them BMC.

-Blonde du Massif Central.

0:24:040:24:09

-You've heard about Blonde cattle?

0:24:090:24:12

-These are the sheep

-you find in this area.

0:24:130:24:17

-Do you cross them with Texels?

0:24:170:24:18

-Do you cross them with Texels?

-

-Yes. They produce a lot of milk.

0:24:180:24:21

-I cross them with Texels

-so I get the best of both worlds.

0:24:210:24:26

-Do you keep female lambs?

0:24:270:24:27

-Do you keep female lambs?

-

-The first cross.

0:24:270:24:29

-The first cross.

0:24:290:24:29

-My flock is small so I have to

-change my ram every three years.

0:24:290:24:35

-How many sheep do you have?

0:24:350:24:38

-Over the course of a year,

-on average, 200 to 220.

0:24:380:24:43

-But the number's reduced in summer,

-because of the hot weather.

0:24:430:24:48

-I sell some of them

-until I have 150 over the summer.

0:24:480:24:53

-By Christmas, I increase the numbers

-to 220 or maybe 300.

0:24:530:24:58

-I buy in 50 in-lambers.

0:24:580:25:01

-40, 50, 60, depending on the price.

0:25:010:25:04

-Is that your livelihood?

0:25:040:25:06

-You have 130 acres of land.

0:25:060:25:09

-Something like that.

0:25:090:25:11

-Is that your stock?

-250 to 300 sheep?

0:25:110:25:14

-That's all.

0:25:140:25:16

-Can you live on that?

0:25:160:25:18

-Can you live on that?

-

-We try.

0:25:180:25:18

-We try.

0:25:180:25:19

-We also have houses in town.

-We renovate houses and sell them.

0:25:190:25:24

-Are there any subsidies

-you can claim here in France?

0:25:240:25:29

-Subsidies for what?

0:25:290:25:31

-For farming.

0:25:310:25:32

-EEC subsidies

-are the same as you get at home.

0:25:330:25:37

-We've started on all farm payments.

0:25:370:25:40

-Here, with sheep and cattle,

-it's split.

0:25:400:25:43

-You get 50% all farm payment

-and 50% depending on headage.

0:25:430:25:48

-So this year I get something like

-21 or 22 euros lowland payment...

0:25:480:25:54

-Per head?

0:25:540:25:55

-Per head?

-

-Per head, headage.

0:25:550:25:56

-Per head, headage.

0:25:560:25:57

-And I get an LFA top-up -

-this area is an LFA.

0:25:570:26:02

-I get a top-up of about seven

-or eight, so it comes to 30 euros.

0:26:020:26:08

-We have the Tir Cymen

-and Tir Cynnal schemes...

0:26:090:26:13

-..and grants for fencing and

-improving your farm's appearance...

0:26:130:26:17

-..and conservation is a big thing.

0:26:170:26:19

-Whatever's going, I get it.

0:26:200:26:22

-That's the Vale of Clwyd

-coming out in you again!

0:26:220:26:26

-You can't keep more than

-a certain number of animals, though.

0:26:260:26:31

-No. I'm restricted to 6.6 sheep

-per hectare - two and a half acres.

0:26:320:26:37

-That's two to the acre.

0:26:370:26:39

-It's not a lot.

0:26:400:26:41

-That's how it was in Wales

-50 years ago.

0:26:420:26:45

-At this time of the year it looks

-lovely, there's plenty of grass.

0:26:460:26:51

-Looking at your farm,

-it's a good farm.

0:26:510:26:55

-Maybe it gets hot

-on the upper slopes.

0:26:550:26:58

-But you have land lower down too.

0:26:590:27:01

-But you have land lower down too.

-

-It's fine lower down.

0:27:010:27:02

-It's fine lower down.

0:27:020:27:03

-Do you have to buy hay or silage?

0:27:040:27:07

-Just some hay. Not a lot.

0:27:070:27:10

-I make about 200 big bales a year,

-and maybe 1,500 small bales.

0:27:100:27:15

-That's every year.

0:27:170:27:18

-I start feeding hay to the sheep

-in September.

0:27:180:27:23

-If it's sunny and dry,

-I start with the hay.

0:27:240:27:28

-Do you apply lime to the soil?

0:27:280:27:31

-I have done, right at the start.

0:27:320:27:34

-I have done, right at the start.

-

-You have to use lime.

0:27:340:27:35

-You have to use lime.

0:27:350:27:36

-Are you allowed to apply nitrogen

-as you see fit?

0:27:360:27:41

-No, the use of nitrogen

-is restricted.

0:27:410:27:44

-Life is quite enjoyable here,

-isn't it?

0:27:440:27:47

-People aren't so impatient.

0:27:470:27:49

-No.

0:27:490:27:51

-Here, if a field

-comes up for sale...

0:27:510:27:55

-..the seller comes to me and asks if

-I'd like to buy the field next door.

0:27:550:28:01

-If I say no, he says,

-"It doesn't matter."

0:28:010:28:05

-But at home, if the field next door

-comes up for sale...

0:28:050:28:11

-..a war breaks out to buy it!

0:28:110:28:14

-You're right - it's like a war!

0:28:140:28:17

-No-one here

-has heard of land auctions.

0:28:180:28:21

-Remind me again - if I wanted

-to buy good fields like those...

0:28:220:28:27

-..how much per acre or per hectare

-would it cost?

0:28:270:28:31

-Those fields?

0:28:320:28:33

-It's good land, grade one arable.

0:28:340:28:37

-There's also an irrigation system

-in the fields across the river.

0:28:380:28:42

-Something like 3,000 euros

-per hectare.

0:28:420:28:45

-That's about...

0:28:460:28:47

-That's something like 1,000

-an acre.

0:28:470:28:50

-And that's the best land.

0:28:510:28:51

-And that's the best land.

-

-Fantastic.

0:28:510:28:53

-Fantastic.

0:28:530:28:53

-And it includes irrigation.

0:28:530:28:55

-The Almighty looks after that

-back home!

0:28:560:28:59

-This kind of land,

-where we're standing...

0:29:000:29:03

-..you can buy this kind of land

-for 400.

0:29:030:29:07

-I must say,

-you're in a lovely place.

0:29:070:29:11

-It's a lovely place to live.

0:29:120:29:15

-Yes, it's lovely.

0:29:150:29:17

-Everything's at a slower pace.

0:29:170:29:19

-You phone someone up -

-"Oh, tomorrow."

0:29:200:29:23

-Tomorrow or next week!

0:29:230:29:25

-It's lovely!

0:29:260:29:27

-Here are your sheep.

0:29:470:29:49

-The Texel stands out quite clearly

-in some of them.

0:29:490:29:53

-Do you shear them once a year?

0:29:540:29:55

-Do you shear them once a year?

-

-Once a year.

0:29:550:29:57

-Is there a market here for wool?

0:29:570:29:59

-Is there a market here for wool?

-

-No. We burn it.

0:29:590:30:00

-No. We burn it.

0:30:000:30:01

-Really?

0:30:010:30:02

-Do you do the shearing yourself?

0:30:030:30:05

-Do you do the shearing yourself?

-

-Me and my mate.

0:30:050:30:05

-Me and my mate.

0:30:050:30:06

-But you don't get anything

-for the wool.

0:30:080:30:11

-Nothing at all.

0:30:110:30:13

-Every year I burn the lot

-on November 5 - Bonfire Night.

0:30:130:30:18

-Wool isn't the easiest thing

-to burn.

0:30:180:30:21

-Well, you use a little diesel.

0:30:220:30:25

-We're not allowed to burn anything

-back home.

0:30:250:30:29

-Here, we're allowed to burn stuff

-after September.

0:30:300:30:33

-Before September - no chance.

0:30:340:30:35

-It's too dry -

-everything would go up in flames.

0:30:360:30:39

-Do the sheep suffer from diseases

-like footrot?

0:30:400:30:43

-Is it a problem for you?

0:30:440:30:46

-Well, you have to be careful.

0:30:470:30:49

-In summer, we get thunderstorms.

0:30:490:30:52

-They're terrible -

-they go on for half an hour...

0:30:520:30:56

-..and everywhere gets soaked.

0:30:560:30:58

-Half an hour later,

-it's 110 degrees.

0:30:580:31:01

-So they get mud in their feet,

-which is dry an hour later.

0:31:020:31:07

-You have to be careful -

-it can cause footrot.

0:31:070:31:11

-I bring all the sheep in

-once a fortnight and check them.

0:31:110:31:16

-Do you clean their feet?

0:31:170:31:18

-Do you clean their feet?

-

-Not all of them.

0:31:180:31:19

-Not all of them.

0:31:190:31:20

-The ground's full of clay.

0:31:200:31:22

-You can see where we brought the car

-down through that sludge.

0:31:220:31:27

-It dries hard.

0:31:270:31:28

-It dries hard.

-

-Yes, that's what happens.

0:31:280:31:29

-Yes, that's what happens.

0:31:290:31:30

-Is fluke a problem,

-like it is at home?

0:31:300:31:34

-At home,

-snails are a host for fluke.

0:31:340:31:37

-Here, we get the lesser liver fluke.

0:31:390:31:42

-Ants are the host

-for lesser liver fluke.

0:31:420:31:45

-There's not much food for them

-in summer.

0:31:450:31:49

-Ants?

0:31:490:31:50

-Ants?

-

-Yes.

0:31:500:31:50

-Yes.

0:31:500:31:51

-That's what they get here -

-lesser liver fluke.

0:31:520:31:55

-You have to be careful.

0:31:550:31:57

-Do you dose the sheep?

0:31:580:31:58

-Do you dose the sheep?

-

-Yes, twice a year...

0:31:580:32:00

-Yes, twice a year...

0:32:000:32:00

-..a month before lambing

-and then again in summer.

0:32:000:32:05

-I dose the lambs that are outside...

0:32:060:32:08

-..every six weeks or so.

0:32:100:32:12

-..every six weeks or so.

-

-Same as we do.

0:32:120:32:15

-How do you buy sheep?

0:32:150:32:17

-You said you buy 50 sheep.

0:32:170:32:20

-Are they advertised in a paper?

0:32:200:32:23

-I buy in-lambs through a paper.

0:32:230:32:27

-There are registered breeders.

0:32:270:32:29

-There's one not far from here,

-others are further away.

0:32:290:32:33

-I buy from them too.

0:32:330:32:35

-If you're buying purebreds,

-there are subsidies available.

0:32:350:32:39

-You get... for 18-month-old sheep,

-you get 30 back for each one.

0:32:410:32:47

-You pay something like 70, 80...

0:32:480:32:51

-..and you get 30 back

-from the government.

0:32:520:32:55

-The aim is to improve stock.

0:32:550:32:58

-I see.

0:32:580:33:00

-Do they loan you money too?

0:33:000:33:02

-When you're starting off,

-as a young farmer...

0:33:030:33:06

-..up to three times...

0:33:060:33:09

-..you can receive an interest-free

-loan to buy up to 350 head.

0:33:100:33:15

-And you can buy three times?

0:33:160:33:19

-Three times.

0:33:190:33:20

-Three times.

-

-Three years, in other words.

0:33:200:33:21

-Three years, in other words.

0:33:210:33:22

-That's right.

-You can buy about 1,000 sheep.

0:33:220:33:26

-And with these loans,

-for young farmers...

0:33:260:33:29

-..it's interest-free credit.

0:33:300:33:31

-You get interest-free credit

-for five years...

0:33:320:33:35

-..and you don't pay anything

-for the first two years.

0:33:350:33:39

-So you get seven years

-to pay off the loan.

0:33:400:33:44

-Exactly how close to heaven

-are you?!

0:33:440:33:47

-That's what I think, too!

0:33:470:33:50

-It's a lot of help.

0:33:500:33:52

-Agricultural methods in general

-are the same as they are in Wales.

0:34:150:34:20

-But the weather is a lot milder.

0:34:200:34:23

-Of course,

-some things are different.

0:34:240:34:27

-For example, cattle

-spend more time indoors.

0:34:280:34:31

-The poultry are similar

-to what you see in Wales.

0:34:320:34:36

-But some things are different.

0:34:420:34:44

-Vaughan showed me

-some of these differences.

0:34:440:34:47

-This is drying corn.

0:34:470:34:49

-Is this ground down to feed cattle?

0:34:490:34:52

-Yes. It's dried in these cages...

0:34:530:34:55

-..and then ground to provide food

-for cattle and hens.

0:34:560:35:00

-They're sold, too,

-at the end of the year.

0:35:010:35:05

-It's high up off the floor

-to stop mice from getting to it.

0:35:050:35:11

-It's quite high too.

0:35:110:35:13

-I'm not exactly sure, but I've got

-something like 100 acres of maize.

0:35:130:35:19

-It takes a lot.

0:35:200:35:21

-It takes a lot.

-

-How many cattle does that feed?

0:35:210:35:22

-How many cattle does that feed?

0:35:220:35:23

-135, on this farm.

0:35:230:35:25

-Looking at them from afar...

0:35:280:35:30

-..I thought they were Charolais.

0:35:300:35:31

-..I thought they were Charolais.

-

-No, they're Blonde d'Aquitaine...

0:35:310:35:32

-No, they're Blonde d'Aquitaine...

0:35:320:35:33

-..purebred.

0:35:340:35:34

-..purebred.

-

-They're on silage.

0:35:340:35:35

-They're on silage.

0:35:350:35:36

-Are they kept in at night?

0:35:360:35:39

-They're fed in the morning

-and then they go out all day...

0:35:390:35:44

-..and they're brought in at night.

0:35:440:35:47

-Was the silage

-produced on this land?

0:35:470:35:50

-Is the land ploughed

-fairly regularly?

0:35:500:35:53

-The farmer's keen - he re-seeds

-every field every two years.

0:35:540:35:58

-Re-seed, re-seed.

0:35:590:36:00

-Is it just him and his son?

0:36:000:36:03

-Is it just him and his son?

-

-Yes, he and his son work the farm.

0:36:030:36:03

-Yes, he and his son work the farm.

0:36:030:36:06

-When they're busy in summer,

-they call me to come and help.

0:36:060:36:11

-Baling, usually.

0:36:120:36:13

-Do you do any contract work?

0:36:140:36:16

-Not contract work.

0:36:160:36:18

-I do a day here and there.

0:36:180:36:21

-The money isn't much - pocket money

-for the weekend, maybe.

0:36:210:36:25

-.

0:36:260:36:26

-888

0:36:330:36:33

-888

0:36:330:36:35

-Is this your village?

0:37:050:37:07

-It's a small village.

0:37:080:37:09

-About 700 people live here.

0:37:100:37:12

-Does it have a post office?

0:37:130:37:15

-Does it have a post office?

-

-Yes. It has nearly everything.

0:37:150:37:16

-Yes. It has nearly everything.

0:37:160:37:17

-A shop, post office, restaurant...

0:37:170:37:18

-A shop, post office, restaurant...

-

-And a hotel.

0:37:180:37:19

-And a hotel.

0:37:190:37:20

-Yes, the hotel's behind you.

0:37:200:37:22

-Yes, the hotel's behind you.

-

-This is a busy little place.

0:37:220:37:23

-This is a busy little place.

0:37:230:37:24

-It's the mayor's office.

0:37:250:37:26

-In France,

-the mayor is your top man.

0:37:270:37:30

-He's called the Chef.

0:37:310:37:33

-The mayor's involved in everything.

0:37:330:37:36

-Is this the school

-your children attend?

0:37:380:37:41

-That's right.

0:37:420:37:44

-One of my sons goes there.

-There he is, look.

0:37:440:37:48

-In the red shirt.

0:37:490:37:49

-In the red shirt.

-

-They're taking photographs today.

0:37:490:37:50

-They're taking photographs today.

0:37:500:37:51

-How many children go there?

0:37:510:37:53

-How many children go there?

-

-About 50.

0:37:530:37:54

-About 50.

0:37:540:37:55

-There used to be about 100.

0:37:560:37:59

-They've lost a teacher.

0:38:000:38:02

-The same happens at home.

0:38:020:38:04

-Pupil numbers go down

-and schools lose teachers.

0:38:040:38:08

-A BELL RINGS

0:38:080:38:09

-Is this the village square?

0:38:120:38:14

-Is this the village square?

-

-Yes.

0:38:140:38:14

-Yes.

0:38:140:38:15

-A chateau used to stand here,

-before the Revolution.

0:38:150:38:19

-It was pulled down

-after the Revolution.

0:38:190:38:22

-It's a busy little village.

0:38:220:38:24

-The village is extremely busy

-in the morning.

0:38:250:38:29

-People gather for a chat and so on.

0:38:290:38:32

-It's very busy in the morning.

0:38:330:38:35

-Everyone goes for lunch at noon.

0:38:350:38:38

-After lunch, it's siesta time.

0:38:380:38:40

-I've said it before -

-we should do the same at home...

0:38:400:38:45

-..this siesta business!

0:38:450:38:47

-Everyone can sleep after lunch...

0:38:470:38:49

-..but not everyone

-can sleep at night!

0:38:500:38:53

-They start work early.

0:38:530:38:54

-They start work early.

-

-Children start school early too.

0:38:540:38:55

-Children start school early too.

0:38:550:38:56

-Yes, they start at 8.00am.

0:38:570:38:59

-Your wife said as they get older,

-school ends later in the evening.

0:38:590:39:04

-Yes, it's nearly 6.00pm

-by the time they get home.

0:39:050:39:09

-Children at the maternelle, or

-nursery school, have a siesta too.

0:39:090:39:14

-Small children.

0:39:140:39:16

-Don't children go to school

-full-time...

0:39:160:39:19

-..when they're two and a half?

0:39:190:39:21

-..when they're two and a half?

-

-Yes...

0:39:210:39:22

-Yes...

0:39:220:39:22

-..but they get time off

-on Wednesdays.

0:39:230:39:26

-They're in school four days a week,

-from 8.00am to 5.30pm.

0:39:260:39:31

-There's a war memorial

-like you see in Welsh villages.

0:39:340:39:38

-People here had a hard time

-during the war.

0:39:390:39:43

-Auch, ten miles away,

-had a particularly bad time.

0:39:430:39:47

-The local community in Gers

-in the south of France...

0:40:010:40:05

-..has accepted the family.

0:40:060:40:07

-There's a proverb that says,

-"A friend nearby...

0:40:080:40:11

-..is better than a brother

-far away."

0:40:110:40:14

-HE SPEAKS FRENCH TO THE DOG

0:40:140:40:18

-This farmer's grass is excellent.

0:40:220:40:25

-Plenty of food.

0:40:250:40:27

-Those sheep are Berrichons,

-aren't they?

0:40:270:40:30

-Does he specialise in Berrichons?

0:40:300:40:33

-He's a breeder.

0:40:330:40:36

-They're all pedigrees.

0:40:360:40:38

-He buys AI.

0:40:380:40:41

-He uses insemination.

0:40:410:40:43

-In September.

0:40:430:40:45

-But he's put a ram among them now

-to use as a sweeper.

0:40:450:40:50

-Look at this grass.

0:40:510:40:52

-You couldn't use any machinery

-on this land, it's no good.

0:40:530:40:57

-But it's fine for sheep.

0:40:570:40:59

-It's a lovely spot.

0:41:000:41:01

-There's shelter.

0:41:020:41:02

-There's shelter.

-

-It's fantastic.

0:41:020:41:03

-It's fantastic.

0:41:030:41:04

-There's enough shelter for lambing.

0:41:050:41:06

-There's enough shelter for lambing.

-

-Does he bring them in for lambing?

0:41:060:41:07

-Does he bring them in for lambing?

0:41:070:41:09

-Well, it's down to money.

0:41:090:41:11

-They're worth a lot of money,

-so he brings them in.

0:41:110:41:16

-You met this gentleman

-while hunting, did you?

0:41:160:41:20

-Yes.

0:41:200:41:21

-He's my best friend here in France.

0:41:220:41:25

-My first friend too.

0:41:250:41:27

-HE CALLS IN FRENCH TO THE DOG

0:41:270:41:30

-He seems to be quite a character.

0:41:320:41:35

-He's got excellent dogs.

0:41:350:41:37

-Good sheepdogs, good hunting dogs,

-good fox terriers...

0:41:380:41:42

-..good sheep.

0:41:420:41:44

-He's a great man.

0:41:440:41:45

-He's a great man.

-

-He's a specialist.

0:41:450:41:45

-He's a specialist.

0:41:450:41:46

-You can tell

-by looking at his animals.

0:41:460:41:49

-It's worth coming here

-just to see his dog working.

0:41:490:41:53

-That dog's father

-came from the Ruthin area!

0:41:540:41:57

-From Bodfari?

-He mentioned Glyn Jones.

0:41:570:42:00

-Glyn sells his dogs everywhere.

0:42:000:42:03

-We're far from Bodfari now!

0:42:030:42:05

-He has a video tape of Glyn Jones

-working his sheepdogs.

0:42:050:42:10

-He phoned me up

-and asked if I knew him.

0:42:100:42:14

-He lived next door to me

-near Llanbedr.

0:42:150:42:18

-"Could you buy a dog for me?"

0:42:180:42:21

-I phoned Glyn Jones, went over

-and brought a dog back for him.

0:42:220:42:27

-One of his terriers

-comes from Llanbedr too.

0:42:270:42:30

-Yes, one of the Jack Russells

-comes from Llanbedr.

0:42:310:42:34

-I'm not the only one from Wales

-in this area!

0:42:350:42:39

-How much do they weigh?

0:42:460:42:48

-These ram lambs

-are about eight months old.

0:42:480:42:51

-The biggest are eight months old.

0:42:520:42:54

-They weigh up to 90kg.

0:42:550:42:56

-They weigh up to 90kg.

-

-He has good rams. A good length.

0:42:560:42:57

-He has good rams. A good length.

0:42:570:42:59

-I think he feeds them cake.

0:42:590:43:01

-HE SPEAKS FRENCH

0:43:020:43:03

-Oh, oats and...

0:43:040:43:05

-Oh, oats and...

-

-Maize.

0:43:050:43:05

-Maize.

0:43:050:43:06

-Oats, maize and...

0:43:070:43:09

-..barley.

0:43:110:43:12

-It's healthier than anything else.

0:43:140:43:16

-HE SPEAKS FRENCH

0:43:160:43:18

-It's all grown here.

0:43:180:43:20

-The whole lot.

0:43:200:43:22

-Do you give them minerals or cake

-or anything like that...?

0:43:220:43:27

-He's French!

0:43:270:43:29

-He's French!

0:43:290:43:30

-You're doing well, fair play.

0:43:340:43:36

-The neighbours are excellent

-and France is a lovely country.

0:43:420:43:47

-People have time to talk and laugh.

0:43:470:43:50

-The cattle couldn't be finer.

0:43:500:43:53

-Many farms keep a lot of geese.

0:43:540:43:57

-You never see them in Wales

-these days.

0:43:580:44:01

-The villages still retain

-their old, familiar character...

0:44:040:44:08

-..and the machinery too, at times.

0:44:090:44:11

-Food and mealtimes

-are very important to French people.

0:44:140:44:19

-A siren sounds

-when it's time to eat...

0:44:200:44:23

-..and they eat, siren or not.

0:44:240:44:26

-How many farmers' wives in this area

-work every day?

0:44:260:44:31

-It's hard to tell.

0:44:320:44:34

-I'm not sure how many

-work outside the farm.

0:44:340:44:37

-But many of them work

-with their husbands.

0:44:380:44:41

-In Wales, it's common for

-farmers' wives to teach in schools.

0:44:410:44:46

-No, they usually...

0:44:460:44:47

-No, they usually...

-

-Lots of young wives...

0:44:470:44:48

-Lots of young wives...

0:44:480:44:49

-Here, they usually stay at home.

0:44:490:44:52

-They stay home

-and look after the children...

0:44:520:44:55

-..and they help out on the farm.

0:44:560:44:59

-This is good.

0:45:000:45:02

-Reasonably priced too.

0:45:020:45:04

-When you first came here...

0:45:040:45:06

-..had you seen it advertised...

0:45:070:45:09

-..in a paper or something?

0:45:100:45:11

-..in a paper or something?

-

-I made a phone call...

0:45:110:45:13

-..to the Ministry of Agriculture

-here...

0:45:130:45:16

-..asking if there was anything

-for sale to young farmers.

0:45:160:45:21

-They sent some details and that's

-how I started looking around.

0:45:210:45:26

-Did your neighbours welcome you?

0:45:260:45:28

-You were foreigners, after all.

0:45:280:45:30

-You were foreigners, after all.

-

-The man next door...

0:45:300:45:31

-The man next door...

0:45:310:45:33

-..after a fortnight,

-he wanted to buy the place.

0:45:330:45:37

-But a fortnight

-after we moved to France...

0:45:370:45:40

-..he knocked on the door...

0:45:410:45:43

-..and said, "No hard feelings,

-good luck to you."

0:45:430:45:47

-Farmers are a sociable group

-and hunting's very important.

0:45:480:45:52

-You hunt together.

0:45:520:45:53

-You hunt together.

-

-I took my fox terriers for a walk...

0:45:530:45:54

-I took my fox terriers for a walk...

0:45:540:45:56

-..and someone saw them...

0:45:570:45:58

-..and that same night someone called

-and invited me to come to hunt.

0:45:580:46:04

-On my first hunt...

0:46:040:46:06

-..the only French word I knew

-was the word for 'hole' - 'trou'.

0:46:060:46:11

-I had terriers,

-and I said, "Trou, trou, trou!"

0:46:110:46:15

-Terriers in the trou - in the hole!

0:46:160:46:19

-That's how it started!

0:46:190:46:20

-It was fun.

0:46:210:46:22

-France has its priorities right.

0:46:320:46:35

-Farms must make a profit

-and be a place to raise a family.

0:46:380:46:43

-Was it easy for Vaughan and Sally

-to move their family to France?

0:46:460:46:51

-Or was it a difficult process?

0:46:510:46:52

-Or was it a difficult process?

-

-It was easy.

0:46:520:46:54

-Or was it a difficult process?

0:46:540:46:54

-It was easy.

0:46:540:46:56

-We got a handout to buy stock.

0:46:560:46:59

-You get interest-free loans

-for seven years.

0:46:590:47:03

-I think it was a handout of 30,000

-to buy stock to start off.

0:47:030:47:09

-This is a great help, Sally.

0:47:090:47:12

-The banks are on your side.

0:47:120:47:13

-The banks are on your side.

-

-Yes, definitely.

0:47:130:47:14

-Yes, definitely.

0:47:140:47:15

-If you have a degree in agriculture,

-or been to college, is that a help?

0:47:150:47:21

-Definitely.

0:47:220:47:23

-You don't even need to have

-such good qualifications as that.

0:47:230:47:28

-Any basic young farmer's

-qualification is sufficient.

0:47:280:47:31

-Something like an NVQ.

0:47:320:47:34

-Anything like that -

-anything on paper...

0:47:340:47:37

-..from a college - Coleg Llysfasi,

-or Glynllifon or wherever.

0:47:370:47:41

-Did the fact that you had children

-help you when borrowing money?

0:47:420:47:47

-Don't they take children

-into account?

0:47:470:47:50

-Yes, and they help

-on the farm too.

0:47:510:47:54

-There's a good family allowance

-if you live on a farm.

0:47:550:47:59

-Excellent.

0:48:000:48:00

-Excellent.

-

-Tell us more, tell us more!

0:48:000:48:01

-Tell us more, tell us more!

0:48:010:48:03

-The more you have, the more you get.

0:48:030:48:06

-They compensate you

-for staying at home.

0:48:060:48:09

-They like mothers to stay at home

-until the children are three...

0:48:090:48:14

-..and you get extra family allowance

-for that...

0:48:140:48:17

-..which is better than somebody else

-bringing up your children.

0:48:180:48:22

-You get help for them going back

-to school - for clothes, books, etc.

0:48:220:48:28

-Sally, how easy was it to come here

-and get established?

0:48:280:48:33

-It was time-consuming,

-trying to get everything in place...

0:48:330:48:37

-..to be able to make a serious offer

-and move here.

0:48:370:48:41

-We were told at one time

-"You haven't got a chance,"...

0:48:420:48:46

-..because someone local wanted it.

0:48:460:48:48

-It went before a local committee

-to decide who'd get the farm.

0:48:480:48:53

-How did it come into your... ?

0:48:540:48:56

-How did it come into your... ?

-

-Because we had the children...

0:48:560:48:57

-Because we had the children...

0:48:570:48:58

-..and they felt

-we would be more beneficial...

0:48:580:49:02

-..supporting local schools

-and living as a proper family...

0:49:020:49:06

-..and that the farm would stay

-as one and not split up...

0:49:060:49:11

-..which they liked.

0:49:110:49:12

-A young family making a new life

-for themselves in France.

0:49:200:49:24

-And who could blame them?

0:49:250:49:27

-One thing's for sure...

0:49:280:49:30

-..rural Wales and Welsh rugby

-are poorer without them.

0:49:300:49:34

-S4/C subtitles by TROSOL Cyf.

0:50:020:50:05

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0:50:050:50:05

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