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They have been part of man's story since prehistoric times.

:00:27.:00:29.

I'm not embarrassed to say I am a bit of a cow geek

:00:30.:00:49.

Anita is getting a taste for raw milk.

:00:50.:00:51.

Charlotte is looking at the changing face of dairy farming.

:00:52.:01:08.

And Adam is here with the first of this year's nominees

:01:09.:01:27.

They are an important part of our history,

:01:28.:01:29.

Nearly 2,000,000 dairy cows provide the UK with milk.

:01:30.:01:38.

1.5 million make up our national beef herd.

:01:39.:01:43.

Now, you are quite possibly the most important animal

:01:44.:01:47.

providing food, clothing and fertiliser.

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Farming cattle is as old as the hills that they graze on.

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24-year-old Jack Stillwell from West Sussex

:02:23.:02:37.

has been obsessed with cows since he was a boy.

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But it wasn't until he was at agricultural college

:02:41.:02:42.

that he realised he was going to need more than his summer job wages

:02:43.:02:51.

asking complete strangers to donate cash

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His initiative earned him a Young Farmer of the Year award.

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Morning, Jack. Morning. How are you doing, mate? Nice to see you.

:03:07.:03:09.

Good to see you. You all right? Yeah, very well, thank you. Good.

:03:10.:03:12.

It's quite a story, this, isn't it, of how you actually got the money

:03:13.:03:15.

and how you've got to be where you are today?

:03:16.:03:16.

As this thing was kind of progressing, how were you feeling?

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Was it like, "Yeah, this is it. It's going to start. It's happening."?

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I really had no idea I was going to get it.

:03:23.:03:24.

and everything started to fall into place.

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There have been people that have been a bit sceptical,

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but you are always going to get that with something new.

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And I think there's a lot of people who would never have heard of it.

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It is new to the business world, let alone the farming world. Yes.

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So, the idea that somebody is asking for money can raise a few

:03:38.:03:40.

eyebrows but, once people understand it and get to grips with it,

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everyone has been on board, so it's been a journey, definitely.

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And is it better than you thought it would be?

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I mean, this is the world that you are in now.

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You must be just loving it. Yeah. I am enjoying it very much.

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I'm not embarrassed to say I am a bit of a cow geek

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And what we are doing now, feeding them, that makes me happy.

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That's one of my favourite things in the world.

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It sounds pretty cheesy, a bit corny, but I'm all right with that.

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In return for the donations, Jack promised to keep people

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up-to-date with his progress via social media.

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He used the ?4,000 to buy ten Hereford

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Just six months on, his herd is now nearly 250 strong,

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spread over three sites across the South Downs,

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So these are the first ones you bought, then? Yes.

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These heifers here are what I initially purchased

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So, it's nice to see it all coming full circle.

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So, these are all in calf to my Hereford bull here.

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He's a beauty, isn't he? Yeah, I'm very happy with him.

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And how old was he when you got him, then?

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and then he went to work almost straight away.

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So this will be the first time, then, that you've actually calved?

:04:58.:05:00.

Yeah. Up to now I buy them in as calves,

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but I've never actually calved my own,

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so this will be another learning curve.

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The next new experience. It's exciting times.

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Yeah, it's very good. I'm looking forward to it.

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Though Jack works pretty much on his own,

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he reaches thousands of people worldwide

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using the internet to post his photos of British farming.

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So, we are going to take a snap and see how much interest we get by

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the end of the day, measured by the number of people who like the photo.

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If you kneel down next to him. Yeah, all right. Do that?

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That's good. It works? Right, now just do one of him and put him up.

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Seems Jack has already decided who is going to get more likes.

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You going to put that one up, are you? Yeah. That's a cracker.

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That should do really well. All right, then.

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Launch that one and we'll see what kind of reaction it gets.

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OK, good. Now, with low milk prices in the headlines recently,

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whether intensive dairy farming is the way forward.

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and many of us imagine cattle grazing in green pastures.

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Most cows are kept inside just during the winter,

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but now up to one fifth of the milk we produce in this country

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comes from cows which don't graze in fields at all.

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In fact, they are kept inside all year round.

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this intensive style of farming has been practised abroad for decades.

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A few years ago, Adam visited an American mega-dairy,

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The scale of this farming operation is absolutely enormous.

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You can't see any of the cows cos they're all indoors.

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We've never gone as far as that in the UK,

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but a growing number of our dairy farmers

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have started to keep their herds indoors.

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Now, as many as 15% to 20% of our dairy cows

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Many farmers are doing this to produce more milk,

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which might help as the dairy crisis bites.

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It's estimated that every day a dairy farmer goes out of business.

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So, in tough times, is the answer to keep cows inside all year round?

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One obstacle is the public's perception

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and their concern for animal welfare.

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So what is it like for cows to be under cover

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That's more than 12 times the size of the average UK herd.

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He was one of the first farmers in Britain

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to start rearing his herd indoors on the scale.

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Do you worry about keeping cows inside?

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We need to just do the best for them with their bedding,

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with their feeding, with their health,

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so our barns are designed to provide the cows with comfortable

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lying area because cows lie down for about 14 hours a day.

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so there is plenty of room to move around in

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and just providing an environment so our cows can behave as naturally

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as they can in a farming environment.

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Many people will watch this and they won't like what they see.

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Potentially, but that's... We are not hiding away.

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and I don't think it matters whether they are in a barn or outside.

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Cows don't have some imagination of where they want to live.

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I personally think my cows are happy.

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Their happiness comes from being looked after and feeling safe.

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Are you proud of your farm? Immensely proud.

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I'm immensely proud of my great-grandmother who started it all

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Today, this dairy produces enough milk for 200,000 UK consumers

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I think that's actually quite a lot to be proud of.

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with this style of keeping cattle as Neill.

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Compassion In World Farming would like to see all dairy herds

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but Neil is so confident in the welfare of his cows,

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he has invited them on to his farm to have a look around.

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The farmer clearly cares about his cows.

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It's a shame he doesn't let them outside.

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So it is the system that you object to? What's wrong with it?

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They wouldn't naturally have to sit in rows like this.

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Naturally they would be out on fields

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sitting at different spacings from each other,

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well away from walkways that are covered in manure and urine.

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wet fields in the rain even in the spring.

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Yes, indeed, and some of the best systems give them the choice.

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So if you took this farm and you opened it out at the far end,

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and you let them out into fields, they can go in when they want,

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So is that your objection generally - that cows just can't do

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That is one of our objections. We would like to give the cows choices.

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is that where they're not incredibly well managed,

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You get a high risk of loneliness. You will often get,

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because of the very high yields of some of these cows, emaciated cows.

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There are very mixed views on the issues associated with

:10:43.:10:45.

keeping cows in year-round but the big question is - is it worth it?

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The amount of milk one cow can produce has more than

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doubled in the last 50 years from an average of 3,500 litres

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a year in 1963 to about 7,500 litres today.

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Cows kept inside like this are fed this highly nutritious food.

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And here is where that really starts to show.

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It just means that you can milk more cows a lot more quickly.

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Now, here on Neil's farm, these cows produce

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an average of 11,000 litres of milk per cow per year.

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And surely when dairy farms are struggling,

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But producing more milk doesn't make Neil immune to

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He's seen the value of his milk drop more than a fifth in just

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over a year from 30 pence a litre in 2014 to 23 pence today.

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Do you think that the economies of scale mean that you can

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survive at that price, perhaps longer than other farmers?

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Well, I'd hope we can do more than survive, really.

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but I guess the investment we've put in over the years is going to

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help us to continue to prosper in these really difficult times.

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but indoor-intensive farms aren't easy to establish.

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They can take years to set up at huge cost and, even then,

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some farmers that have done it have gone under.

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On the face of it, while milk prices are low,

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it might seem like the obvious solution to bring cows indoors all

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year, produce more milk and so make more money but it's not that simple.

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So later on I'll be finding out if, instead,

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it's possible to increase the value of the milk you're selling.

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Cattle not only give us milk and meat, there's also the leather.

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In its transition from beast to brogues, it takes quite a hiding.

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Within these walls, craftsmen work the raw material in the same

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And this is where the process begins, these are the raw hides...

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and this is the first part of their journey to becoming lovely

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Bakers in East Devon is Britain's last traditional oak-bark tannery.

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They've been using oak-bark liquor to turn skin into

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leather on this site since Roman times.

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It's been run by Andrew Parr's family for the last 150 years.

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Andrew's going to take me through the whole process,

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from raw hide to world-renowned, top-quality leather.

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Yup, well, we've been through the first process, which is

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the liming process, to de-hair the hides.

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And they've come down now to Roger, where he's just finishing them off.

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So any short hair that's left on the hide,

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he's taking off with the de-hairing tool over the beam.

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So where do these hides come from, then, Andrew?

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These are all local hides, so they've all come

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It's a good beef-growing area, lots of grass around here.

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And so from good-quality beef, you get some good quality hides.

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We only do beef cattle here because, with cows, they have a calf

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and obviously we're wanting stuff without stretched skin.

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We don't want stretch in the leather.

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So we're just looking for the very best beef hide.

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So you're basically using something that wouldn't have any

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stretch marks, so to speak, in human terms. Yes.

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That's right, that one's a black-and-white.

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That's the pigment in the skin and, gradually, as it starts tanning,

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within two or three weeks, that will disappear altogether.

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So when it comes out, it'll be a uniform biscuit-brown colour

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and that's part of sort of the secret or magic.

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Once they've been cleaned, the real alchemy takes place.

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The hides are suspended in bits of the tanning solution.

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This is what we call the new tan yard. The new tan yard?

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Yeah, it's about 100 years old, so it's still new...to us.

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These hides here have been in for about six months.

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They've got another six months to go.

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And what we're doing here is just strengthening up the tan liquor

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and we're putting the hides back in with oak bark,

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so that oak bark is going to feed the liquor.

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This is my favourite kind of science.

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The guys are just sort of chucking in a couple of handfuls of oak.

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It's very precise. This oak is mostly from Wales

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and some of it comes from the Lake District.

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It is a by-product of the timber industry.

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Most of this is what we call coppice oak,

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so they'll use the main wood for charcoal.

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so nothing is wasted in the timber business, a bit like with the hides.

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Everybody else is using chemicals, why are you using oak still?

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It's very hard-wearing, it's got very high tensile strength

:16:35.:16:38.

and it actually looks beautiful when it's finished.

:16:39.:16:45.

The hides are soaked for a whole year before they're

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there are still a few of nature's imperfections to iron out.

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and we go down through the bottom edge like that. It just gets

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out that hump, you know, the humps you've got in it

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I feel a bit nervous because this is such a precious material

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and commodity, I don't want to mark it or ruin it.

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So why do you add the oil to it? We put it on to look after it.

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and I guess, in the same way you look after your own skin...

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Yes, that's right, yeah, yeah, it is, yeah.

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It's like a protection thing. Nourishes it?

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And how long will you leave it hanging for?

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For six days... Six days. ..we will hang it up for, yeah.

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how do you know which one is at which stage of the drying process?

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Have you got like a spreadsheet or something somewhere?

:17:48.:17:49.

No. Is it all up here? Yeah, yeah, all up here.

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After the years... I've been here for 40 odd years.

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Really ironically, I can remember leading calves as a child

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After being oiled, it's off to be rollered by Jeff.

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Jeff, this is an incredible piece of machinery.

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It's not the newest or most contemporary piece of kit, is it?

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Rolling the leather compacts the natural fibres.

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This not only toughens it but also means moisture can't get in,

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Then finally it gets stained. That's James' job today.

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and what seems like quite a loving process, James, is that fair?

:18:37.:18:41.

I'm one of those lucky people that really look forward to

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getting up and going to work in the morning.

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You can see that you're making a difference.

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You know, there is a product at the end of it.

:18:50.:18:52.

You've got to be patient in this leather-making game, haven't you?

:18:53.:18:55.

these hides from the West Country are shipped all over the world

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to become high-end shoes, bags and equestrian goods.

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But we dropped in on a craftsman a little closer to home who's

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My name's John Hagger and I've been working with leather for 25 years.

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My grandfather was a leather guilder,

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The tools that I use are the same tools that have been

:19:31.:19:38.

used by leather makers, by leather crafters for generations.

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Because it's tanned with oak, that gives me a leather that is not

:19:46.:19:51.

only very durable and strong but it's also supple.

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And because of the hand-dyeing process, it's not uniform.

:19:55.:19:58.

I like to know... In fact, I NEED to know where the leather comes from.

:19:59.:20:07.

I feel like I have a responsibility to my customer to know where

:20:08.:20:11.

There's no part of that leather belt or that leather bag

:20:12.:20:17.

What I love is creating something of beauty

:20:18.:20:30.

Finely-crafted leather is one use for precious hides...

:20:31.:20:45.

..but there's another even finer purpose.

:20:46.:20:54.

She's a botanical artist from Hertfordshire.

:20:55.:21:03.

A key feature of her beautifully detailed work is that she

:21:04.:21:07.

chooses to paint on a very special surface.

:21:08.:21:15.

and drawing on for thousands of years and it's made from calf skin.

:21:16.:21:23.

It can also be made from goats and sheep

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but the best stuff comes from calves.

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I think because it's such an organic material, it's so natural

:21:31.:21:35.

and it fits with the subjects that I enjoy painting.

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And a sense that this surface or support has been around for

:21:39.:21:41.

thousands and thousands of years and it will carry on being around.

:21:42.:21:44.

It will outlast both of us but I'm also working

:21:45.:21:47.

and yet bringing together something which can be quite

:21:48.:21:53.

contemporary in terms of its layout and its application today.

:21:54.:21:56.

So, for me, it very much connects past, present, future.

:21:57.:21:59.

It's got quite a lot of symbolism in it, really.

:22:00.:22:01.

How does it work differently to paper?

:22:02.:22:03.

The paint actually sits on the surface of the vellum,

:22:04.:22:05.

it doesn't sink in in the way that it would into paper.

:22:06.:22:15.

There's something else about the vellum which is its organic quality

:22:16.:22:20.

and if you have a look at the piece I've got here,

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which has got quite a lot of veining.

:22:24.:22:26.

Here you can see veining that's very much echoing some of these

:22:27.:22:29.

shapes, so there's something about the markings here that

:22:30.:22:33.

Gael buys her vellum from the firm of William Cowley's

:22:34.:22:45.

in Buckinghamshire. They've been making vellum for 180 years

:22:46.:22:50.

and are now the only supplier left in the UK.

:22:51.:22:54.

I've come with Gael to meet the manager, Paul Wright, who's going

:22:55.:22:59.

The firm made the news recently when Parliament threatened to end

:23:00.:23:04.

the thousand-year-old practice of writing new laws on vellum.

:23:05.:23:08.

This piece here, this is a manuscript vellum

:23:09.:23:13.

and it's very white. We've taken all of the pigment out of the skin.

:23:14.:23:16.

This would be used by calligraphers and illuminators.

:23:17.:23:18.

Really used for very high-end documents.

:23:19.:23:21.

When Prince William married, the Queen signed what is called

:23:22.:23:25.

which will in turn become a national document.

:23:26.:23:28.

This will be something we'll look back on in 2,000 years' time plus.

:23:29.:23:31.

Anything where you're sort of saying,

:23:32.:23:33.

"OK, then, the document is of personal or national importance,"

:23:34.:23:36.

So, Gael, what are you looking for when you come to get your vellum?

:23:37.:23:42.

So sometimes I will have in my mind's eye a subject that

:23:43.:23:46.

I want to paint on this and think which skin is going to work

:23:47.:23:49.

with the subject that I'm going to be doing and other times

:23:50.:23:52.

I will see a skin and decide it's not what I've come to buy

:23:53.:23:57.

but I have to have it, it has to leave here in the car with me.

:23:58.:24:01.

This is typically talking to me about some quite complex

:24:02.:24:09.

So something like a very complex dried hydrangea.

:24:10.:24:12.

This is where the artwork starts, in many ways.

:24:13.:24:17.

Because each piece of vellum has a unique DNA profile,

:24:18.:24:20.

some internationally renowned artists are working on it

:24:21.:24:23.

Well, a modern artist buys a vellum,

:24:24.:24:28.

keeps a small piece of it, does the work and off it goes and if someone

:24:29.:24:33.

in 20 years' time says, "I've got the original,"

:24:34.:24:36.

There's a magical atmosphere in the stockroom.

:24:37.:24:44.

raw animal skins create a different kind of atmosphere.

:24:45.:24:50.

I do love the way that waft comes out as you open the door,

:24:51.:24:56.

like, "Whoa!" It's an intense smell.

:24:57.:24:58.

Obviously, these are all hand-selected skins

:24:59.:25:01.

from the abattoir. So this is a by-product?

:25:02.:25:03.

Nothing is killed for its skin, it's killed for its meat.

:25:04.:25:06.

We can go through 500 and walk away with 50.

:25:07.:25:13.

After four weeks in a caustic bath to remove the hair,

:25:14.:25:17.

the skins are stretched on frames to dry.

:25:18.:25:23.

Then Lee gets to work crafting the finished article.

:25:24.:25:30.

Hi, Lee. Hiya. Tell me what you're doing to this.

:25:31.:25:34.

Basically, I'm trying to take this grain layer off the skin,

:25:35.:25:37.

the outer layer where the hair was on the animal.

:25:38.:25:40.

And I'm just removing that to get a nice white finish for a manuscript.

:25:41.:25:44.

So, Lee, how many people in the world can do this job?

:25:45.:25:46.

In this country, it's just me at the moment.

:25:47.:25:48.

I understand there's a couple of others in the world.

:25:49.:25:51.

Production stops for a little while. But, touch wood, I don't get sick.

:25:52.:25:57.

How difficult is what you are doing? What is this? This is a lune.

:25:58.:26:01.

It's a very sharp blade and we're just using it to just

:26:02.:26:04.

scrape away as much of the layer as possible.

:26:05.:26:09.

All right, I think the stance is very important. It is, yes.

:26:10.:26:17.

Ouch, cramp. Hang on. I'm going to mess this up.

:26:18.:26:28.

There's actually something really satisfying about it as well,

:26:29.:26:31.

You've got quite a few to get through

:26:32.:26:35.

and I think you're much better at it than me, obviously.

:26:36.:26:37.

As well as the satisfaction of knowing that every new

:26:38.:26:41.

act of Parliament is written on vellum he's crafted,

:26:42.:26:44.

with pride to see Gael take the vellum he's produced

:26:45.:26:49.

I'm going to do my best not to ruin a perfectly good calfskin.

:26:50.:26:58.

Imagine that you're stroking the paint onto the actual petal itself.

:26:59.:27:04.

That's lovely. I'm in the zone. You're really good at this!

:27:05.:27:10.

I don't know about that but there we go.

:27:11.:27:13.

I followed your lines as neatly as I could and, yeah,

:27:14.:27:16.

the good news is I've done it, the bad news is it's going to be

:27:17.:27:19.

here for thousands and thousands of years.

:27:20.:27:33.

Now, earlier we asked whether intensive dairy production is

:27:34.:27:36.

the way for farmers to survive the current crisis over milk prices.

:27:37.:27:41.

But as Charlotte's been finding out, it's by no means the only choice.

:27:42.:27:49.

Making money out of milk is harder now than it has been for years.

:27:50.:27:54.

But not everyone thinks that more intensive production is the answer.

:27:55.:27:58.

What other options do dairy farmers have to get them

:27:59.:28:02.

Some people think the answer is to go big.

:28:03.:28:09.

Others feel we should be going in the opposite direction,

:28:10.:28:12.

He thinks the dairy industry could be missing a trick.

:28:13.:28:18.

By playing to its strengths, he spies an opportunity.

:28:19.:28:23.

Neil, you've spotted what you think is a gap in the market

:28:24.:28:26.

which could help dairy farmers, what is it?

:28:27.:28:28.

Well, it's all about this that we're looking at here today.

:28:29.:28:31.

It's called free-range milk, which is basically based on a commitment

:28:32.:28:36.

by farmers to graze their cows for six months of the year in fields.

:28:37.:28:39.

So who comes up with a definition that that is free-range milk?

:28:40.:28:42.

I have worked with others to build a definition.

:28:43.:28:45.

governing free-range milk production.

:28:46.:28:49.

First of all, freedom for cows to graze,

:28:50.:28:54.

a fair award to farmers and a more informed choice for the consumer.

:28:55.:28:59.

The idea is to return a few more pence per litre to the farmer.

:29:00.:29:03.

price-wise it will be pitched between standard and organic milk.

:29:04.:29:10.

Isn't there an implied criticism, at least, here?

:29:11.:29:12.

Aren't you saying, "Actually, this is the best way to do things,"

:29:13.:29:15.

far better than, for instance, keeping cows in all year?

:29:16.:29:19.

Well, we're not out to criticise anybody

:29:20.:29:21.

but I think if we are to avoid milk becoming nothing more than

:29:22.:29:24.

a cheap white-water commodity, we have to start to differentiate milk

:29:25.:29:28.

differentiating the way in which we farm.

:29:29.:29:32.

Most people actually think their milk comes from cows in fields

:29:33.:29:36.

but, increasingly, less and less milk does.

:29:37.:29:38.

And we want people to be able to make that choice.

:29:39.:29:41.

Farmers at the moment are forced to compete one another

:29:42.:29:45.

out of business to see who can deliver it the cheapest

:29:46.:29:48.

but if we can instil the real value in that milk,

:29:49.:29:50.

we believe we can command a higher price.

:29:51.:29:57.

Well, free-range may be a new concept for milk

:29:58.:30:01.

but it isn't in other parts of the industry.

:30:02.:30:05.

More than half the eggs we buy in Britain today are free-range.

:30:06.:30:09.

Supermarkets might be open to other free-range products

:30:10.:30:12.

Marketing expert Dr Fiona Spotswood

:30:13.:30:17.

believes this new idea might be here to stay.

:30:18.:30:21.

I think if you look at how free-range eggs have taken off

:30:22.:30:25.

and become very normal now, there's no reason why certain

:30:26.:30:29.

consumers wouldn't take on the idea of free-range milk.

:30:30.:30:32.

At the moment things are really bad for dairy farmers

:30:33.:30:35.

Can they market their way out of this crisis?

:30:36.:30:38.

I think marketing is a really powerful way of adding value

:30:39.:30:41.

If they can encourage consumers to feel like they are making

:30:42.:30:45.

meaningful choices, then there's no reason why

:30:46.:30:48.

a little bit more on products. In the future, customers might bring

:30:49.:30:53.

and use that free-range label to sort of show off a little bit

:30:54.:30:58.

to their neighbours when they invite them round for coffee.

:30:59.:31:02.

Phil Brooke from Compassion in World Farming

:31:03.:31:05.

also thinks there's mileage in free-range milk.

:31:06.:31:08.

The public expect cows to be kept outside.

:31:09.:31:11.

They'd be horrified if they were kept inside all of the time

:31:12.:31:14.

but it doesn't say so on the label, so they don't know.

:31:15.:31:17.

There should be a picture of these cows on the label

:31:18.:31:22.

and if it's from a free-range farm, a picture of cows outside.

:31:23.:31:25.

The consumers would know what they were getting and I think we'd find

:31:26.:31:29.

people paying a bit more for kinder milk from cows given more choices.

:31:30.:31:36.

free-range milk will become a staple on our supermarket shelves.

:31:37.:31:43.

will it alienate some dairy farmers, like Neil who I met earlier?

:31:44.:31:49.

so what does he make of free-range milk?

:31:50.:31:55.

Do you see that as a threat to you? Certainly not a threat, no.

:31:56.:32:00.

I'm unsure what it is. We just need to be wary.

:32:01.:32:04.

Does anybody know what free-range dairy is any more than

:32:05.:32:07.

So that's something we need to know but certainly not a threat.

:32:08.:32:13.

Isn't there an implied criticism of what you do in free-range milk?

:32:14.:32:18.

I don't know, is there? Potentially, I suppose.

:32:19.:32:22.

But I think it's not that much different.

:32:23.:32:26.

They're still looking after the cows,

:32:27.:32:28.

but anything that adds value to the dairy chain without causing

:32:29.:32:35.

harm to another sector of it has got to be a good thing.

:32:36.:32:46.

There's no doubt British dairy farmers are in the midst

:32:47.:32:49.

of one of their toughest times ever and there are no easy solutions.

:32:50.:32:54.

on the future for British dairy farming.

:32:55.:32:58.

You can contact us via the website...

:32:59.:33:01.

or join the conversation on Twitter. We're...

:33:02.:33:07.

Britain has long been regarded the stockyard of the world.

:33:08.:33:11.

Our bulls have populated herds from Aberdeen to Argentina for decades

:33:12.:33:16.

but the humble cow has changed considerably over the years.

:33:17.:33:22.

Bulls in particular have changed through the decades.

:33:23.:33:25.

meet the shifting demands of the market.

:33:26.:33:30.

It's something award-winning young farmer Jack Stilwell is

:33:31.:33:33.

Some of the animals he bought with money raised via

:33:34.:33:38.

an internet crowd-funding campaign are going to market,

:33:39.:33:41.

so will his animals meet today's demands?

:33:42.:33:44.

A fieldsman for 30 years, Mark Ferrett

:33:45.:33:46.

knows his way around the back end of a bovine better than most.

:33:47.:33:51.

So the cow that we know and love, Mark,

:33:52.:33:53.

has changed and evolved quite considerably, hasn't it?

:33:54.:33:56.

and that has been driven by industry demand, really,

:33:57.:34:01.

where you would have had a traditional small, stocky breed

:34:02.:34:04.

used to living outside through the winter as well as the summer.

:34:05.:34:07.

because farmers need to turn their cattle round more, so they've

:34:08.:34:12.

had to introduce a bigger breed to get the beast to grow quicker.

:34:13.:34:17.

The volume of animals coming through in unit has to be revolving

:34:18.:34:21.

quite quickly to enhance the profit margins for the farmer.

:34:22.:34:24.

Conformation of a beast is always so important, Matt.

:34:25.:34:28.

You know, at the end of the day, the public,

:34:29.:34:30.

when they purchase their beef, are always looking for a nice joint.

:34:31.:34:34.

These days, consumers are returning to traditional British beef breeds,

:34:35.:34:38.

I've stuck with Herefords and Aberdeen Anguses... Yup.

:34:39.:34:46.

A bit of fat on the meat is good and that brings the flavour

:34:47.:34:50.

and it's not bad fat, it's good for you.

:34:51.:34:56.

There's a nice, long beast and he's got a good conformation,

:34:57.:35:02.

but what we would refer to in the trade as...

:35:03.:35:13.

Where we're at at the moment with the market,

:35:14.:35:15.

what would you expect to be a good price next Friday?

:35:16.:35:20.

but these lovely little healthy bullocks here which we're selecting,

:35:21.:35:27.

I'm hoping, for Jack's sake, that they are clear 450s

:35:28.:35:30.

It's a good job. Hopefully next week will be payday. Yeah.

:35:31.:35:41.

if our photo of Curly the bull is impressing people as much.

:35:42.:35:46.

That's it. Get the message of British beef out there. Marvellous.

:35:47.:36:04.

Earlier this year, we asked you to nominate your farming heroes

:36:05.:36:08.

as part of the BBC's Food and Farming Awards.

:36:09.:36:11.

And Charlotte Smith, a familiar Countryfile face

:36:12.:36:50.

and all parts of the UK, so they took some sorting.

:36:51.:36:53.

What sort of people are we looking for?

:36:54.:36:55.

Somebody who has done something extra,

:36:56.:36:57.

something they didn't really have to do.

:36:58.:37:00.

Somebody who hasn't really been recognised for that. Yeah.

:37:01.:37:03.

We want someone special. Going above and beyond, isn't it?

:37:04.:37:07.

I think that's the important thing, isn't it?

:37:08.:37:12.

but we've picked three finalists to meet, so we can choose one winner.

:37:13.:37:20.

Cumbria police have declared a major incident as Storm Desmond

:37:21.:37:23.

And where better to start looking for heroes

:37:24.:37:31.

than in the midst of last winter's storms...

:37:32.:37:39.

The floods last year had a massive impact on many farming communities.

:37:40.:37:43.

There were lots of nominations for people who helped out in the flood,

:37:44.:37:47.

so we decided to pick just one that represented the spirit of them all.

:37:48.:37:51.

And that actually proved rather difficult but we have managed it

:37:52.:37:55.

and we are here because it's the Cumbria Young Farmers.

:37:56.:37:58.

So I'm going to meet the Young Farmers.

:37:59.:38:00.

And I'm going to see who nominated them. See you later. See you.

:38:01.:38:07.

Our first finalists are a group of heroes,

:38:08.:38:10.

the entire Cumbria Federation of Young Farmers' Clubs.

:38:11.:38:14.

That's 25 clubs, 1,600 young men and women.

:38:15.:38:24.

When their county was caught up in Storm Desmond last December,

:38:25.:38:28.

they didn't hesitate to get stuck in.

:38:29.:38:31.

Like when Mike Dunning's farm near Tebay was engulfed in a mudslide.

:38:32.:38:38.

Goodness me. What a mess. It's a little babbling brook today

:38:39.:38:42.

but it was a raging torrent that afternoon. Yes.

:38:43.:38:44.

Obviously it burst its banks as you can see there, it burst through.

:38:45.:38:48.

We were stood up to here in water and, you know, coming in full force,

:38:49.:38:51.

it was all you could do to stand in it.

:38:52.:38:53.

Goodness me. It was ferocious, it really was.

:38:54.:38:56.

And then when the mudslide happened, what did it look like?

:38:57.:38:59.

It was just like looking at a wall of soil, it was frightening.

:39:00.:39:02.

Unbelievable. My muck-spreader, it was there on its side upside down,

:39:03.:39:06.

it had just lifted it up. You couldn't get your head round it.

:39:07.:39:13.

Dozens of Cumbria Young Farmers turned up to help out.

:39:14.:39:17.

And some are back today to tell us about it. Hiya. Hello. Hi.

:39:18.:39:22.

So tell me, how did the first contact happen, then?

:39:23.:39:26.

I actually got in touch with Mike. Seeing how bad everything was here,

:39:27.:39:29.

I just knew these guys could help out.

:39:30.:39:31.

Even in a small way, it would make a big difference.

:39:32.:39:34.

We soon got together, got our shovels and started digging.

:39:35.:39:37.

So it was handballing work, really. It was.

:39:38.:39:40.

It was all hand work, yeah, it was too high for the digger to

:39:41.:39:43.

get in for access, so it was man and shovel.

:39:44.:39:45.

And why the Young Farmers? Why not the...you know, the Fire Service?

:39:46.:39:50.

Part of the community spirit of Young Farmers, really.

:39:51.:39:53.

Strengthening the local community. Fantastic. Yeah.

:39:54.:39:58.

Congratulations and I think you're very deserved nominees.

:39:59.:40:06.

This is just one of the many stories of Young Farmers in Cumbria

:40:07.:40:10.

Charlotte's caught up with the person who nominated them

:40:11.:40:16.

And to do that, I've left the countryside behind

:40:17.:40:20.

This is Petteril Street in the centre of Carlisle.

:40:21.:40:27.

But during Storm Desmond, it looked more like a river.

:40:28.:40:31.

1,600 houses were evacuated, including this one,

:40:32.:40:35.

home to 80-year-old Marie Scott. I'm meeting her son David.

:40:36.:40:40.

I left this house at about three o'clock on the Sunday morning

:40:41.:40:44.

and it was just lapping the doorstep there.

:40:45.:40:47.

I went home, came back about an hour and a half

:40:48.:40:50.

Yeah, she's coping with it but, I mean,

:40:51.:40:59.

As she says, she's been rehoused and she's living in another house

:41:00.:41:04.

It isn't where she hangs her coat and everything like that.

:41:05.:41:09.

With Carlisle in crisis, Cumbria's Young Farmers really became heroes.

:41:10.:41:17.

They weren't content to just help people in the farming community,

:41:18.:41:21.

they decided to take their agricultural hardware onto

:41:22.:41:24.

We have a lot of resources, a lot of equipment

:41:25.:41:29.

and we can mobilise quite quickly, so we thought we'd try and do

:41:30.:41:32.

a bit of prevention and get some sandbags and see what we could do.

:41:33.:41:35.

And how many of you pulled together to get this going?

:41:36.:41:38.

About 25 that day and they just kept coming out the woodwork.

:41:39.:41:42.

Seeing we were in need and so they came to help.

:41:43.:41:44.

So what did the Young Farmers do to help?

:41:45.:41:47.

In every direction, every single house was flooded

:41:48.:41:49.

and every piece of furniture, fridge, food,

:41:50.:41:52.

everything that was in the house had to be taken out and this street

:41:53.:41:55.

and as far as the eye could see was just laden with rubbish

:41:56.:41:58.

and the Young Farmers came in to help the council because we didn't

:41:59.:42:01.

have enough skips, or anything like that,

:42:02.:42:03.

We've got about nine tractors and trailers, three loaders

:42:04.:42:07.

and a digger and moved quite a considerable amount of stuff

:42:08.:42:10.

on that day. We cleared in the region of five streets,

:42:11.:42:13.

about 70 or 75 trailerloads of material,

:42:14.:42:15.

so I think we made a large impact in one day.

:42:16.:42:20.

Why do you think they're heroes? It's a big word, hero, isn't it?

:42:21.:42:23.

But they just put their own troubles aside

:42:24.:42:27.

and these young lads, whose farms and buildings

:42:28.:42:30.

and livestock were devastated and also ruined, managed to give

:42:31.:42:33.

up their own time to come in and actually help in the city.

:42:34.:42:37.

And how do you feel now that you're nominated as farming heroes?

:42:38.:42:40.

Well, yes, a little bit overwhelmed, really.

:42:41.:42:46.

We didn't do it for any form of recognition.

:42:47.:42:48.

It was just...you like to do something to help, really.

:42:49.:42:50.

All right, let's get these wheels rolling.

:42:51.:42:55.

Well, we've decided to hit the road and re-enact the rescue,

:42:56.:42:59.

so the Young Farmers can meet up for the first time with the people

:43:00.:43:03.

This is great, going through town with all these tractors.

:43:04.:43:16.

That was quite some sight. That was amazing.

:43:17.:43:28.

David, this is David who nominated them.

:43:29.:43:33.

Hello, nice to meet you. Lovely to meet you.

:43:34.:43:35.

This is Tom, who came to your rescue. Thanks, Tom.

:43:36.:43:38.

And the whole Young Farmers crew. Yeah.

:43:39.:43:41.

And these lads managed to bring a little bit more normality

:43:42.:43:44.

Well done, you. Well done, Young Farmers.

:43:45.:43:50.

Great. Amazing how many people turned out for you.

:43:51.:43:53.

Yup, yup, every one of them. Thank you very much.

:43:54.:43:56.

Someone here at the back of the group is another person who

:43:57.:44:02.

and that's Jason who works for Carlisle City Council.

:44:03.:44:06.

Jason, what difference did this lot make?

:44:07.:44:08.

We were under real pressure as City Council and other partners to

:44:09.:44:12.

get on with recovery and support people who had been affected.

:44:13.:44:14.

"If you want something done, just ask a farmer."

:44:15.:44:19.

And that was absolutely right on this occasion.

:44:20.:44:21.

You made a tremendous difference and I'm really grateful.

:44:22.:44:24.

It was inspirational what you did. So thank you very much indeed.

:44:25.:44:27.

Well done for everything you achieved down here

:44:28.:44:29.

and keep up the good work. Well done, thanks very much.

:44:30.:44:32.

What an amazing group of people. I know.

:44:33.:44:35.

Because they could have just done what we all do, couldn't they?

:44:36.:44:38.

Watch it on the telly, feel very sympathetic, make a cup of tea.

:44:39.:44:41.

They rallied the troops, rang round, got together and got stuck in.

:44:42.:44:45.

Just brilliant. And made a real difference, a real difference here.

:44:46.:44:48.

This is going to be hard. It's a good start, though, isn't it?

:44:49.:44:52.

It's just before dawn and I'm out buying milk for breakfast.

:44:53.:45:21.

But what makes this milk different is that it's raw milk.

:45:22.:45:32.

Non-pasteurised, non-heat-treated, straight from the udder.

:45:33.:45:43.

I've come to Fen Farm in Bungay in Suffolk to meet Jonny Crickmore,

:45:44.:45:48.

one of a growing number of farmers registered to supply it.

:45:49.:45:52.

From just a handful at the start of the decade, there are now 114 just

:45:53.:45:56.

like him, producing raw milk to meet the demand of a burgeoning market.

:45:57.:46:02.

If you like the flavour of milk, and you taste raw milk,

:46:03.:46:07.

It's got so much more flavour and it's more silky,

:46:08.:46:12.

it's not been battered around in pumps and been cooked

:46:13.:46:17.

and it's just as straightforward and basic as it comes.

:46:18.:46:26.

At the heart of Jonny's operation is a 300-strong herd

:46:27.:46:29.

a breed from the Alpine regions of Europe.

:46:30.:46:33.

So what's different about this breed?

:46:34.:46:35.

If you notice, they're quite a chunky cow.

:46:36.:46:38.

Mostly the milk is used for making comte cheese,

:46:39.:46:41.

so this is sort of the Swiss-French border.

:46:42.:46:43.

so it's got higher butterfat and higher protein.

:46:44.:46:48.

Higher solids in the milk actually makes more flavour in the milk.

:46:49.:46:51.

You don't have to convince me, I love butter.

:46:52.:46:54.

I'm an absolute butter and dairy obsessive.

:46:55.:46:56.

They're massive, some of these cows, aren't they?

:46:57.:46:58.

Yeah, they're quite chunky. They've got some power behind them.

:46:59.:47:02.

Jonny originally brought in the Montbeliardes

:47:03.:47:04.

but soon found that people were asking for his raw milk.

:47:05.:47:16.

and conditions in the parlour are kept scrupulously clean.

:47:17.:47:22.

you wouldn't be cleaning the teats quite like this, would you?

:47:23.:47:29.

No, I mean, every dairy will be different. Some dairy farmers

:47:30.:47:32.

will spend more time than others but, on the whole,

:47:33.:47:36.

what we are doing different is we're spending a lot more

:47:37.:47:39.

time in the milking parlour making the cows' teats clean

:47:40.:47:42.

and trying to prevent muck going in the milk.

:47:43.:47:47.

'A special brush applies disinfectant to the teats.'

:47:48.:47:51.

That's it, you want to go over once or twice.

:47:52.:48:03.

You want to see that teat nice and shiny.

:48:04.:48:06.

This herd produces up to 6,000 litres a day.

:48:07.:48:14.

The bulk of it still goes for pasteurising but Jonny's holding

:48:15.:48:17.

back more and more because of the increasing appetite for raw milk.

:48:18.:48:22.

Sorry, lady, there we go, and last one.

:48:23.:48:25.

There's been a bit of a buzz around the product for a while now

:48:26.:48:28.

Is it working? Oh, yeah, there you go, the milk's coming out, lovely.

:48:29.:48:35.

Because raw milk isn't pasteurised, harmful bugs could still be present.

:48:36.:48:40.

This can make drinking it risky for small children,

:48:41.:48:42.

pregnant women and people with underlying health conditions.

:48:43.:48:46.

So all bottles have to carry health advice and testing is rigorous.

:48:47.:48:52.

The Food Standards Agency comes out and takes a sample of the milk that

:48:53.:48:56.

we sell and they're testing really just for the hygiene of the milk.

:48:57.:48:59.

So they're testing for the level of pathogens.

:49:00.:49:02.

So this would be your listerias, your salmonellas,

:49:03.:49:05.

And how clean the actual milking parlour is itself.

:49:06.:49:09.

I suppose the testing is even more rigorous when you're doing

:49:10.:49:12.

something like raw milk because, well, it has to be, doesn't it?

:49:13.:49:15.

Yeah, I think it needs to have a high level of testing.

:49:16.:49:19.

You just need to make sure, at the end of the day,

:49:20.:49:23.

The spring sunshine is beginning to punch through

:49:24.:49:38.

and the first of the day's customers are here for their milk.

:49:39.:49:43.

They've come here to buy direct from the farm as it's illegal to

:49:44.:49:46.

Well, it's a totally different taste and everything.

:49:47.:49:54.

You can't beat it, really. Real milk. I know, real milk.

:49:55.:49:57.

And cream about that much on a bottle. Yeah.

:49:58.:49:59.

Does is remind you of something you used to have when you were a kid?

:50:00.:50:02.

From ten litres a day just a few months back,

:50:03.:50:13.

Jonny's now shifting 200 litres a day.

:50:14.:50:17.

And because there are no middlemen and no supermarkets,

:50:18.:50:20.

he keeps every penny he sells it for.

:50:21.:50:24.

It's a lot creamier, silkier and it's got a lot more flavour.

:50:25.:50:39.

Well, that's what I think but raw milk still divides people.

:50:40.:50:43.

Some claim health benefits whilst others warn of the dangers

:50:44.:50:47.

from drinking milk that might contain harmful bugs.

:50:48.:50:50.

But the advice on the bottles is clear and, ultimately,

:50:51.:50:54.

Farmers up and down the country are getting ready to turn their

:50:55.:51:02.

cattle out but what has the weather got in store for them and us?

:51:03.:51:06.

Good evening. It is a changeable week ahead. We start with a look

:51:07.:51:31.

back at March. It was drier than normal. Further south, it was wetter

:51:32.:51:38.

than normal. We saw storms early in the month and storm Katie bringing

:51:39.:51:44.

rain to the southern half of the UK. It settled down in the middle part

:51:45.:51:53.

of the month. There was an easterly wind coming in from the North Sea.

:51:54.:51:58.

However, it was across the south-east today where we saw 17.2

:51:59.:52:02.

degrees in Gravesend which made it to the warmest day in England so far

:52:03.:52:08.

this year. We will not see that in the coming few days. We will pick up

:52:09.:52:13.

a westerly breeze and it will turn that bit cooler. It will maybe be

:52:14.:52:21.

cold and off by the end of the week for some frost in places. It will

:52:22.:52:29.

not be raining all the time. We have since heavy downpours in the past

:52:30.:52:35.

few hours. Not a great rush hour in central and southern Scotland. The

:52:36.:52:41.

eastern side of Northern Ireland is also looking pretty wet through the

:52:42.:52:44.

morning. A scattering of showers in Wales. Showers are on the other side

:52:45.:52:51.

of the Bristol Channel. Central and eastern areas getting off to a

:52:52.:52:57.

reasonable start. Cloudy for some, brighter for others. Generally

:52:58.:53:00.

speaking, for England and Wales, we will cease showers breaking out

:53:01.:53:02.

through the day. A bit of sunshine in between. This in China is limited

:53:03.:53:11.

for Scotland and Northern Ireland. It is seven or 8 degrees in

:53:12.:53:19.

Aberdeen. Onto Tuesday, low-pressure drifting across the north of the UK

:53:20.:53:24.

taking most of the rain with it. A reasonable day for most places on

:53:25.:53:29.

Tuesday. Any early rain becomes light and patchy. We will get to 12

:53:30.:53:34.

degrees for many places in the far south-east. A big change happens

:53:35.:53:40.

Tuesday night into Wednesday as this weather front comes in from the

:53:41.:53:48.

west. A lot of isobars. The cooler air will be dragged in behind. There

:53:49.:53:53.

will be some showers around. The cooler air is flooding its way in.

:53:54.:53:57.

Many places struggling to get into double figures. It looks like

:53:58.:54:02.

further showers on Thursday. It will be a blustery cool day with a fair

:54:03.:54:08.

bit of cloud and some rain at times. Some places really struggling to get

:54:09.:54:13.

above 89 degrees. Onto the end of the week and we have this weather

:54:14.:54:18.

front drifting its way in from the Atlantic. We are likely to see

:54:19.:54:28.

developments along this front. The low pressure will stick around next

:54:29.:54:32.

weekend as well. It is the southern half of the UK which is most at risk

:54:33.:54:37.

of some cloud, outbreaks of rain at times. Further north it should be

:54:38.:54:41.

that bit drier, particularly into the north and west.

:54:42.:54:51.

Their milk, their leather, their meat.

:54:52.:54:59.

I'm spending the day with Jack Stilwell,

:55:00.:55:02.

an award-winning young farmer combining modern thinking

:55:03.:55:05.

The last stop of the day is on another bit of Jack's shared

:55:06.:55:10.

farmland and it's with his breeding cows of the future.

:55:11.:55:13.

And it's quite a big day for them because, after a long winter

:55:14.:55:17.

indoors, they're about to get their first taste of fresh green grass.

:55:18.:55:29.

Well, even though Jack got into farming in a very modern way,

:55:30.:55:32.

what he's doing is incredibly traditional

:55:33.:55:34.

and it's all about this - the landscape,

:55:35.:55:37.

Really, he's chosen breeds that can do well on grass

:55:38.:55:42.

and don't need a huge amount of supplementary feed.

:55:43.:55:45.

The problem he's got is that his fields are really quite spread out.

:55:46.:55:49.

So today we are taking part of his herd over the Downs.

:55:50.:55:55.

Jack's mate Alex is lending tractor and trailer support.

:55:56.:55:59.

We're only going to get one shot at this, really,

:56:00.:56:01.

so we're just trying to make sure it's kind of as

:56:02.:56:04.

efficient as possible and everything's in the right place.

:56:05.:56:13.

The plan here is to make the pen smaller and smaller...

:56:14.:56:19.

so the cattle only have one place to go.

:56:20.:56:22.

Once one goes, the rest of them will go.

:56:23.:56:25.

Right. Thank you very much for that. No problem.

:56:26.:56:50.

Some of these have never seen grass, have they? No.

:56:51.:56:55.

That's a great sight, isn't it? That is what it's all about.

:56:56.:57:07.

Seeing them run across the grass like that... Uh-huh.

:57:08.:57:12.

So really, going forward, then, what is the grand plan here?

:57:13.:57:22.

The grand plan for me is just to continue

:57:23.:57:24.

If a good opportunity comes my way, I'll grab it with both my hands.

:57:25.:57:30.

As long as I can keep it sustainable and allow it to keep

:57:31.:57:32.

paying for itself, I don't really see a limit to it, to be honest.

:57:33.:57:36.

Jack hopes his story will inspire others just as he was

:57:37.:57:41.

inspired by the wise words of one of his sponsors.

:57:42.:57:45.

He said that someone helped him when he was younger, which allowed him

:57:46.:57:49.

to become successful and the one caveat to that was that,

:57:50.:57:52.

when I was successful and I had made it, that I should help people do

:57:53.:57:56.

the same thing and I really like that sentiment.

:57:57.:57:59.

before Jack can help out some other young farmer.

:58:00.:58:04.

Judging by Curly's fan club, there's plenty of interest out there.

:58:05.:58:07.

you've got the whole field to play in and you're still stuck around us.

:58:08.:58:15.

It seems like, because this whole programme has been

:58:16.:58:17.

all about cattle, they just wanted to say goodbye

:58:18.:58:19.

because that is all we've got time for this week.

:58:20.:58:22.

Next week we're going to be up in Northumberland where John

:58:23.:58:24.

will be following in the footsteps of one of our best loved artists

:58:25.:58:27.

and Ellie will be in a bit of a hotspot.

:58:28.:58:31.

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