The Humber Countryfile


The Humber

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The open-skied landscape of the Humber

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on the east coast of Yorkshire is a bird's paradise.

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Its lush pastoral countryside takes in the Rivers Ouse and Trent

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as they flood into the North Sea.

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For centuries, people here have been defending the flatlands

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against an encroaching tide.

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And now it's home to another form of defence.

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This is MoD Leconfield,

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the UK's only defence school of transport

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and it's where every military driver must come to train

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before they head off for active service.

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Lying deep within the Humber countryside,

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the MoD's taken advantage of this secluded and malleable landscape

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to carve out a playground for vehicles big and small.

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There are 1,300 on site of all shapes and sizes,

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and it's Commandant Colonel Rob Peacock's job to look after them.

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So, Rob, what exactly goes on here?

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This is where we take everyone from across defence,

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young soldiers, airmen, Royal Marines,

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and we teach them everything they need to know about military driving.

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And you've got all sorts of vehicles, all shapes and sizes,

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-and a lot of them.

-Absolutely everything.

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People come here aged 17, 18, might not even have a car licence,

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so we take them through the car licence,

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the early stages of getting a truck licence,

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truck and trailer licence,

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but then the serious business is we put them onto the military vehicles.

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They learn on the MAN trucks,

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Mastiffs you've seen. DROPS truck is the old stuff.

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We've got the sort of Oshkosh fuel tankers over there.

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The point is, they've got to learn to drive in all conditions,

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day and night, all sorts of terrain

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because they need to do this on operations.

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The driving part of it is almost the easy bit.

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We need to teach them to be soldiers on the battlefield,

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it's just that they have to drive vehicles.

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The reality of what these recruits are training for

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was brought home just a few weeks ago when a Mastiff,

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the MoD's most armoured wheeled vehicle

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was hit by a roadside bomb in Afghanistan.

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I feel very sorry for the families at the moment.

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We really shouldn't forget how tragic it is for them.

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But we do our very best to train them

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in these vehicles in every condition we can think of.

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Trying to replicate as closely as possible

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what's going to happen to them in Afghanistan.

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And we need to wait and see what we can learn from that

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and see if there's any tiny improvements we can make

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on the driving side of it.

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Tens of thousands of soldiers have come through here

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in the past five years.

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Jason Figgett's been a DST instructor since 2006.

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After 15 years as a tank commander,

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he's now passing on his wisdom to the next generation.

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'And today, it's my turn in the hot-seat.

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'Not in an armoured vehicle, but in our 4X4.'

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Let's hope she's up to the job!

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CAR REVS

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It's not about speed, you know. It's all about control.'

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OK, all we're going to do now then is come out of this area here,

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just carry on, follow the truck.

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So this is meant to recreate surroundings and terrain

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that you will come across in a military environment?

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It is. Yeah. We actually bring all sorts of vehicles on here.

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The Mastiff, the Foxhound,

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but also our LGVs, our normal military trucks.

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-Just watch these dips.

-Yeah.

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-Yeah.

-OK.

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What we're going to do now is accelerate,

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and as you're going over the brow of the hill,

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I want you to release the accelerator,

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just as you go over the tipping point.

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If you don't, you'll end up going back the way you've just come up.

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If you don't do it as we're on the descent,

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-you'll end up balancing on top.

-OK.

-OK.

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OK, foot off the accelerator.

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-Well done.

-Wow... Whoo!

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-Did you like that?

-Yeah, I liked that.

-Good, good.

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-That'll do you nicely. Nice and gentle.

-Yeah.

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OK, so start to turn now.

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-Yeah.

-Turn now.

-Yeah.

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-Turn now.

-Straight.

-Keep it nice and straight.

-Yeah.

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-There we go.

-OK.

-Cushty.

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And we're going to go right again.

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So this is very real training,

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but it's very real training for the kind of terrain

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that you will face at some stage in your military career.

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Yeah, we're now putting them into a cross-country environment,

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which can simulate all the different types of conditions

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that they could come up against, especially on operational tours.

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So with the kind of obstacles that they have got here,

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at least they're getting experience prior to going into operations.

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So you've experienced this environment in places like Iraq,

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Afghanistan, and all over the world and it's real, it makes sense?

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Yeah, especially with the urban village that we now have here.

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Driving in built-in areas,

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what you're constantly looking at is how you can escape,

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especially if you're ambushed,

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and the urban village here simulates that very well.

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And there we go.

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Jason, I really enjoyed that. How did I do?

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I've really enjoyed being with you. Very good!

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Driving aside, there's more to Leconfield than meets the eye.

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Later, I'll be joining some soldiers doing their bit for conservation.

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I'm on the Outer Humber, where the estuary meets the North Sea.

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This unique salty landscape is being given over to farming,

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and I'm finding out how farming is giving back.

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This is a place both ravaged and nourished by the waves.

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The Holderness coast, which stretches to the north,

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is the fastest-eroding coastline in Europe.

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But while the cliffs lose out to the sea,

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the estuary has something to gain from all of this erosion.

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Sea water ladened with sediments from the cliffs

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is deposited on the banks of the Humber,

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creating one of the most fertile

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and richest breeding grounds in Britain.

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Salt marsh.

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I'm meeting Andrew Gibson from the Yorkshire Wildlife Trust.

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He's heading up an innovative project

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that hopes to conserve the Welwick salt marsh.

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Salt marsh is a special habitat. It's a unique habitat,

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it needs that twice daily saline water to push over and onto it

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to maintain these succulent species that we see below our feet.

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And so often, this is the type of habitat that is reclaimed.

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We reclaim it for ports, for farmland,

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and it's being lost in Britain,

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and here we have a large expanse of it, but it's changing.

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OK. Well, let's have a look around our feet

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and see what it is that the birds are coming here for.

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The plants that we have here are sea lavender,

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you have arrowgrass,

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and then you go onto these domes of fescue, or salt marsh grass.

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So, you can see the really special bit is

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there's only a couple of centimetres difference in this height,

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and yet that changes the mosaic of the species in there.

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And with that, changes the mosaic of insects that are in there,

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-and the birds that feed on those insects.

-A lot going on, then.

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A hell of a lot going on, yes.

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But this is a changing landscape.

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Human attempts to drain the land and reclaim it for farming

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has altered the dynamics of the salt marsh.

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Taller grasses now dominate,

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choking out some of the important shorter species.

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What we have is this large expanse of land.

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How do you manage this?

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How do you bring about positive change for wildlife?

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You could do it with mechanical means,

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you could do it with volunteers.

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Often the Wildlife Trust uses lots of volunteers.

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But to make it sustainable,

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you need grazing animals.

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And what better way than having farming grazing animals,

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and involving the community that live on its boundary?

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Andrew was keen that involvement included

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the next generation of farmers.

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He had the sheep.

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All he needed was a local young farmer to shepherd them.

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That's where Jack Johnson comes in.

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Farming's in his blood.

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He grew up helping his dad Charlie out on the family sheep farm,

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started up by his great-grandfather,

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a stone's throw from the saltmarshes of the Humber Estuary.

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-Now then, lads. How are we doing?

-Now, then.

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Good to see you, Jack. Hello, Charlie. How's everything?

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Good, thank you.

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The Yorkshire Wildlife Trust has loaned Jack and Charlie

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an area of the salt marsh, along with a flock of sheep,

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and it's 17-year-old Jack's responsibility to look after them.

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I've just noticed.

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Do you have your own set of traffic lights on the farm?

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-Now, that's something!

-JACK CHUCKLES

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That is amazing!

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And so this is the first time in the history of your family

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-that you've grazed sheep down on this marsh.

-Yeah, it is.

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It's kind of an important thing, like, so...

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-Did you feel a big weight of responsibility there?

-Kind of, yeah.

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And these sheep are all registered to you, they are your flock,

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-as such?

-Yeah, they are.

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So your dad's basically given you this responsibility.

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He can look after all the sheep up there,

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nice and easy on the fresh pasture up there,

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and then you get the challenges of the salt marsh down the bottom.

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LAUGHTER

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Right you are, yeah!

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I know how it works, Charlie!

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THEY LAUGH

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With the average age of farmers at 58,

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a project like this is invaluable in giving young people an opportunity.

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Well, the first thing to do really is just to keep an eye out,

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see whether any sheep's fallen down or are stuck or anything like that.

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-Yeah.

-Then second thing is try getting them in the pen over there.

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'Jack's been given 35 ewes to graze the salt marsh,

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'which, after five years, he'll have to give back.'

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Come on, you've got your lambs, don't worry.

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The cost of the upkeep falls to Jack and his dad,

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but any money they make from selling lambs for meat

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is theirs to keep.

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Basically, so we don't trample too much over the salt marsh

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and disturb any of the birds that may be in there,

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we just slowly and gently walk to the edge so that the sheep funnel

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down through this gateway.

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Now we pop them up there and into the corral.

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Lie down, lie down!

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At this time of year, the marsh is a busy stop-off point

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for a whole host of migrating birds,

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and an important breeding ground for many species,

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like roe deer and redshank.

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We've seen a lot more birds coming in in wintertime,

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especially down where it's been nagged down at that far end,

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and then hopefully they're going to keep on coming here.

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If all goes to plan,

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farming will help enrich this environment for flora and fauna,

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and Jack and Charlie will benefit, too,

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from sales of their tasty lamb.

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So, have you tried salt marsh lamb?

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-Er... No, not yet!

-No?

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-Have you, Charlie?

-No.

-No?!

-First year, so no.

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-Good! This is exciting stuff, then!

-It'll be on the shelves before long.

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-Which one's going on the table?

-Pick one!

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LAUGHTER

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-Pick one, we'll all get some lunch.

-Pick one, pick a big 'un.

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There's no substitute for hands-on experience like this,

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and it's great to see Jack's making the most of it.

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He's not only finding out

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what comes with the responsibility of owning your own livestock,

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but he's helping to preserve this unique habitat

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for generations to come.

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Later, I'll be meeting young female farmers

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hoping to make their mark in the farming world.

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Here at MoD Leconfield,

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I've been experiencing the rough-and-tumble

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of a military driver's training.

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But there's a whole lot more going on in this part of East Yorkshire

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than first meets the eye.

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This site has been owned by the military since 1937.

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There are 16 miles of off-road routes and 1,300 vehicles.

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Last year, 18,000 soldiers trained here.

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But they're not the only ones passing through.

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Birds.

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Thousands of them love this not-so-tranquil paradise,

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and it's the job of MoD conservation officer Alan Bakewell

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to look out for them.

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Alan, why is this such a cracking place for wildlife?

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Because it's slightly unexpected.

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It's the same as a lot of MoD sites.

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Because of the nature of our business,

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they tend to be in sort of wild, secluded places.

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This used to be an old World War II airfield,

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and because of the fact it has been in Defence ownership for so long,

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it hasn't had all of the agrochemicals and pesticides.

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It's about as near to organic East Yorkshire as you're going to get.

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So it's such a natural environment, that's why the wildlife flocks here?

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Yes, that's right.

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We never know what we're going to find next on the site.

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Do you manage the wildlife?

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We don't manage it.

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What we're really doing is surveying to see what species are on-site.

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We, as a group, have to rely on our expertise,

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but to actually assist us, we get experts in.

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We learn lots, and gain from all of their experience.

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So even the MoD needs help sometimes with some things?

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-Even the MoD.

-SHE CHUCKLES

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But with a site the size of Leconfield,

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it's not easy keeping track of all the wildlife

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that's coming and going,

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so the conservation team has come up with a plan.

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Retired Major Tim Cowley is heading up

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the tri-service bird-ringing initiative

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to monitor the birdlife here.

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The project involves people from across the three services,

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the Royal Navy, the Army and the Royal Air Force,

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who net and ring birds together.

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There are several benefits that come out of this.

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First of all, we get to find out some of the birds that are here,

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and there's always the potential

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that we might find something we don't know is here.

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There are over 100 species of bird on this site.

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We also find out something about the condition of the birds,

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because if they are breeding they might have a brood patch,

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and we get to, if we're lucky,

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catch birds that have been caught before, which they call controls,

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and then we find out where this bird's been in the past,

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and it might be that in future someone will catch the birds

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that have been ringed here in the first instance.

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As owners of nearly 600,000 acres of land across the UK,

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the MoD claims to take its duty of care for any wildlife

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that takes up residence very seriously.

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And it's encouraging to see how enthusiastic

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the servicemen and women are about the animals.

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And it's that enthusiasm that led to a rediscovery a few years ago

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of a rare bird.

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I'm hoping I might see one.

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Between 1997 and 2010,

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just three turtledoves were recorded at Leconfield.

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But this year alone,

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they've already counted seven.

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This iconic songbird has declined by 93% in the UK since the 1970s,

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and it's a species likely to be extinct by 2020

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unless we do something to save it.

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I'm joining Chris Tomson from the RSPB

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to find out why these beautiful birds are in trouble.

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So, Chris, what's so special about the turtledove?

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It comes here for the summer, it spends a third of its life here.

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It's come all the way from Africa to try and breed in this country.

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-That's pretty special.

-It's very special, it's part of our heritage.

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And it is a very attractive bird,

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and it's a quintessential sound of summer

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that's really disappearing fast.

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Why has there been this rapid decline?

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Well, there's a number of problems. They're not finding enough food.

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Having made that vast journey of 3,000 miles,

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they can't get into good breeding condition,

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so they're not breeding as frequently as we would like.

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They might get one brood off,

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but for the population to actually increase,

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they need to get two, preferably three broods off,

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-and that's what's not happening.

-So where's the food?

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What did they have 100 years ago that they don't have today?

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They eat weed seeds, basically.

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Weeds is perhaps not the right word, it's wild flowers,

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it's...sort of traditional weeds that we're used to seeing,

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like birdsfoot trefoil, knotgrass, redshank,

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those sorts of things that these birds are feeding on.

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Farmland is very efficient,

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it's very well farmed,

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and lots of chemicals are used to control these weeds,

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and so it's harder for them to find food.

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Why is this such a good habitat for them here at Leconfield?

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They've got the sort of habitat that they need to breed in.

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They're quite secretive,

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so they nest in scrub,

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or in this case, they're in a small spruce plantation.

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All this, the trucks, the tanks, the cars, the lorries, the digging,

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-doesn't put them off?

-Well, they were here last year.

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Tim Cowley tells me that there are six here today and a pair,

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so there's six singing males,

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so they've obviously voted with their feet,

0:17:440:17:46

-or with their wings, should we say?

-With their wings!

0:17:460:17:49

I'll give you £1.50 if you show me a turtledove now.

0:17:490:17:51

If we look in the right direction, we might see one.

0:17:510:17:53

THEY CHUCKLE Come on, then, let's see.

0:17:530:17:54

This is very exciting.

0:18:020:18:03

You won't be able to see it because it's tiny, tiny, tiny,

0:18:030:18:06

at the top of a tree just over there,

0:18:060:18:08

but you'll hear the song of a turtledove.

0:18:080:18:11

BIRDSONG

0:18:110:18:13

I didn't think I was going to get to see one.

0:18:130:18:15

Earlier, I was out on the exposed coastal salt marsh

0:18:210:18:24

at the edge of the Humber Estuary,

0:18:240:18:25

with 17-year-old Jack Johnson.

0:18:250:18:27

He's part of a scheme to encourage young farmers

0:18:270:18:30

to get first-hand experience of the industry.

0:18:300:18:32

I'm heading deeper into Yorkshire,

0:18:360:18:37

where there's something of a sea change happening

0:18:370:18:39

at grassroots level.

0:18:390:18:41

Here at Bishop Burton Agricultural College near Beverley,

0:18:430:18:46

there's an irrepressible force at work

0:18:460:18:48

amongst our next generation of farmers.

0:18:480:18:50

And it's all to do with girl power.

0:18:500:18:52

Bishop Burton has witnessed a surge in female applicants

0:18:530:18:56

for their farming courses.

0:18:560:18:57

One in five of their agricultural students are now women,

0:18:570:19:01

compared to less than one in ten five years ago.

0:19:010:19:03

17-year-old identical twins Vicky and Lizzie Appleyard

0:19:090:19:13

are studying for their level three agriculture course, and today,

0:19:130:19:16

they're preparing for the college's 52nd annual stockmanship show.

0:19:160:19:21

-Now then, girls. How are you doing?

-Hello.

-Lovely to see you.

0:19:210:19:24

-Who's this?

-This is Delilah.

-Why did you choose Delilah?

-I like the song.

0:19:240:19:28

-You know the song.

-Fair enough. And, Lizzie?

-This is Miranda.

0:19:280:19:33

Good, right. Well, let me give you a hand with a bit of sponging.

0:19:330:19:37

We'll do the armpits down here.

0:19:370:19:38

Yeah, just get all the yellow patches.

0:19:380:19:40

And so, as identical twins, then,

0:19:400:19:42

-you've chosen an identical profession.

-Yeah.

0:19:420:19:44

Have you always been into it? Do you come from a farming family?

0:19:440:19:47

None of our family are anything to do with farming.

0:19:470:19:50

So in that respect, it's quite hard for us to get anywhere.

0:19:500:19:53

As well as being girls.

0:19:530:19:55

So...we came into it through our auntie.

0:19:550:19:58

-She got some Cade lambs to look after.

-OK!

0:19:580:20:00

and we spent a couple of weeks looking after them,

0:20:000:20:02

and we were just hooked.

0:20:020:20:04

So would the ultimate goal then be for you two to have a farm together?

0:20:040:20:07

-That would be pretty cool.

-It would.

-We work brilliantly together.

-Yeah.

0:20:070:20:11

So it wouldn't be a problem. We never fall out.

0:20:110:20:14

And what would you have on your farm?

0:20:140:20:15

-Sheep!

-Sheep!

-Sheep?

0:20:150:20:17

-Just sheep!

-And a pink tractor maybe!

0:20:170:20:19

LAUGHTER

0:20:190:20:21

So all of your friends at your age, I guess on the girls side of it,

0:20:210:20:25

not many of them would wander round farms.

0:20:250:20:28

Not really.

0:20:280:20:29

My friends would be sat there reading their Glamour magazine,

0:20:290:20:31

and I'd have my Farmers Weekly.

0:20:310:20:33

We're a bit different, I'd say!

0:20:330:20:35

Time for a run through for tomorrow's parade

0:20:390:20:41

with teacher Helen Martin.

0:20:410:20:43

-Oh, we've got a sitter.

-We have!

0:20:460:20:49

-We've got a protest on our hands!

-Well, what can you do

0:20:490:20:52

when you've got a big animal like that lying on the ground?

0:20:520:20:55

You can't. I'm afraid 500 kilos of cow has the final say in this case!

0:20:550:21:02

The girls are doing incredibly well, aren't they?

0:21:020:21:04

They're doing so, so well.

0:21:040:21:06

They seem to have that touch,

0:21:060:21:07

and Lizzie and Vicky had them on a halter within two days.

0:21:070:21:10

Some of the lads couldn't match that at all.

0:21:100:21:12

Women in farming is nothing new,

0:21:120:21:14

but we've seen an increase in the amount that want to come in,

0:21:140:21:17

and take top management jobs and actually build a career out of this.

0:21:170:21:20

Well, they're lining up, so I'll let you get back to the class

0:21:200:21:23

and you can continue with the rehearsals for tomorrow.

0:21:230:21:25

-Thank you.

-Good luck with it!

-Thank you!

0:21:250:21:27

One example of Bishop Burton's new breed of business-minded young women

0:21:300:21:34

is 17-year-old Jess Graves.

0:21:340:21:37

She runs her own bacon business from home, Jess's Porky Pigs.

0:21:370:21:41

You're quite unique. There's not many students that are obsessed

0:21:420:21:45

-with pigs like you are.

-I know, yeah. Really obsessed!

0:21:450:21:47

LAUGHTER

0:21:470:21:49

-When did that start?

-When I was eight.

0:21:490:21:51

My dad bought me two little pigs and I loved them to bits.

0:21:510:21:54

And I sold them and I saw the money and thought,

0:21:540:21:58

"Oh, my God, yes!" So then I bought some more pigs, like 25 and then 50.

0:21:580:22:02

-Even at the age of ten?

-Yeah. I've never stopped.

0:22:020:22:06

So do you just come here to learn about pigs?

0:22:060:22:07

Or are you doing the wider business as well?

0:22:070:22:10

Pig nutrition, and we do business management.

0:22:100:22:13

It's learning more about business.

0:22:130:22:15

There are 23,000 female farmers nationwide.

0:22:150:22:18

But Jess finds there are still some barriers for women to get over.

0:22:180:22:22

I'm filling the troughs up here and my wellies are being nibbled.

0:22:230:22:26

-I thought you'd want the feed!

-Yeah.

0:22:260:22:28

What is it about my wellies that is so exciting and so lovely?

0:22:280:22:31

-Are you taken quite seriously, then, as a young lady?

-No.

0:22:340:22:38

No, they don't believe that a woman can do a guy's job.

0:22:380:22:41

You've got to like, believe in yourself, to be honest,

0:22:410:22:43

and think that you can do it, and just do it.

0:22:430:22:46

It's the eagerly awaited Bishop Burton Stockmanship Show.

0:22:490:22:53

Nearly time for Jess and the twins to display their wares,

0:22:530:22:56

and Lizzie's up first.

0:22:560:22:58

I'm really nervous! Really nervous!

0:22:580:23:00

I hope she behaves. She's not behaving so far.

0:23:000:23:03

But Lizzie's heifer Miranda isn't playing ball.

0:23:040:23:07

As the rest of her class head into the judging area,

0:23:070:23:10

Miranda decides she's not having any of it.

0:23:100:23:12

I think she just got a little bit freaked out with everyone

0:23:140:23:16

and just decided she wasn't going to do it.

0:23:160:23:18

Meanwhile, her twin sister Vicky is having problems of her own.

0:23:220:23:25

After some conferring,

0:23:270:23:28

the judges decide to give Lizzie a second chance.

0:23:280:23:30

She gets to show in the same class as her sister,

0:23:310:23:34

and this time manages to persuade Miranda into the arena.

0:23:340:23:38

The judges are looking for a well-kept animal,

0:23:400:23:42

and good knowledge from their handler.

0:23:420:23:44

And Vicky and Delilah seem to be making a good impression.

0:23:450:23:48

-In third place, Vicky Appleyard.

-CHEERING AND APPLAUSE

0:23:550:23:57

What, I'm third place?

0:23:570:23:58

-Well done, Vicky.

-Yay!

0:23:580:24:00

Feel quite happy, actually. Least I came somewhere.

0:24:030:24:07

Better luck with Miranda next time, Lizzie.

0:24:070:24:09

And remember young Jack from the salt marsh?

0:24:110:24:13

Well, he's here with his ewe, known simply as 3-2-1.

0:24:130:24:16

They pick up a silver in the sheep class.

0:24:160:24:18

Good result. Done well, I think.

0:24:200:24:22

-Good enough.

-HE CHUCKLES

0:24:220:24:24

It's a nice ewe, yeah, very nice ewe.

0:24:250:24:27

Done well. It's done very well. Yeah.

0:24:270:24:30

-Thank you!

-Come on, boy.

0:24:300:24:32

Seeing the work ethic of these young stockmen and stockwomen,

0:24:320:24:36

I'd say the future of farming looks incredibly bright.

0:24:360:24:40

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