Northamptonshire Countryfile


Northamptonshire

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Northamptonshire. The county of squires and spires.

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Majestic limestone manors dot the rolling countryside.

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I'm starting my journey in the north of the county,

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in the small village of Rushton.

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But all is not quite as it seems

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within the landscape. Beneath the quaint is quite a lot of quirk.

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Tucked away on a lonely country lane sits this striking

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but slightly bizarre building.

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It's an intricate riddle, a maze of secret codes.

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Rushton Triangular Lodge.

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It's a celebration of the Holy Trinity - God the Father,

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the Son and the Holy Spirit.

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It was completed in 1596 by one of the county's most famous sons,

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Thomas Tresham, a man for whom three was most definitely the magic number.

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A Catholic politician living under Queen Elizabeth's Protestant reign,

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he designed the Lodge while serving time for his beliefs.

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I'm meeting up with historian Emily Hughes who can hopefully

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tell me a thing or three about the place.

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I know the number three is significant

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but you're the one doing the PhD. How did he construct it?

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He constructed it very symbolically.

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His name, Tresham, "Tres" means three in Latin,

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so quite obviously, a symbol of the Holy Trinity

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and also a pun on his name.

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So the walls are all 33 feet long, there's three sides,

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there's three floors, the Trinity is obvious here.

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On the face of it, it seems a fairly innocent declaration of faith

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but there are other secret, treasonable messages.

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The letter S under the water spout stands for "sanctus",

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part of the Catholic Mass.

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And celebrating mass under Queen Elizabeth could lead to execution.

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What would he have done inside the building?

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Well, he built it for his rabbit keeper, a Lodge for him.

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-Elaborate.

-Yeah.

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Once we get inside, you can see that's completely impractical.

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I think, actually, it's a place of devotion and a place

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he could come with his family and practise their faith

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in secret and in private.

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CHOIR SINGS IN LATIN

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-So this is what it would have been like.

-It might well have been.

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The music, I found it within papers from the Tresham household

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so it might have been composed by Thomas Tresham.

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The music itself are the last words of an executed priest.

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And the symbolism within the music, like the building,

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there's cross symbolism, so there's four notes in the shape of a cross,

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and then throughout the four voice parts are 33 allelujahs.

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So the three is making a comeback again and again.

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But this isn't the only puzzling building in the county.

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The hidden symbolism continues to intrigue at the home of another

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notable Northamptonshire family.

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The Triangular Lodge was just a twinkle in Tresham's sketchbook

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when this place, Canons Ashby, was built 40 years earlier.

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With its formal gardens, its stunning views and its fancy topiary,

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it's a pretty textbook stately home.

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But step inside, and there are some hidden clues to a secret past.

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Welcome to Canons Ashby.

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I'm hoping Laura Malpas can shed some light on its dark secrets.

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A lovely hallway.

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Both the families I'm looking into today clearly had money

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but they were very different, weren't they?

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Well, they were because the Drydens,

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-who lived and built Canons Ashby...

-Here.

-..which is here,

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they were extreme Protestants, Puritans.

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Whereas the Treshams you've been looking at over at Rushton,

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they were extreme Roman Catholics.

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So, you've got opposite ends of the spectrum.

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-Now, this is the great kitchen.

-Very nice.

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But this isn't what I want to show you. This is over here.

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-This is our servants' dining hall.

-Interesting decoration.

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What do they all mean?

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Well, we've got some theories about what they all mean.

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-Can you see there's some dividers, holding a white scroll?

-Yes.

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And then you've got these reeded columns with the set squares on top,

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with an eye in the middle.

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And then we've got family crests all around walls.

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What is unusual is that we've got lots of Protestant families up here

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but we've also got some well-known Roman Catholic families here, too.

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-So they're intermingled?

-Yes,

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something is uniting them that is bigger than religion.

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-What's bigger than religion?

-Quite.

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If you put a modern day Freemason in this room and show him

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these symbols, they go, "Oh, that looks really Masonic to me."

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But the Grand Lodge in London of Freemasons say freemasonry

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-wasn't established in England until 1717.

-So this is too early?

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This is at least 100 years too early,

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-probably more than 100 years too early.

-Right.

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-It's very mysterious, isn't it? It's very Da Vinci Code.

-Oh, it is.

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So, the symbols may hold the key to a secret society

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but another mystery has recently been unearthed in the room.

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-Inside here...

-You're getting into the cupboard.

-Yes, indeed.

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We were just having a look around.

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I don't know if you can notice, we've got a secret chamber.

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For what?

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Well, it's too small for a person,

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but it's just the right size for things.

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So if you have things you don't want anybody to find,

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then you'd put them in here.

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So many questions, Laura, so many questions!

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We know that there's a lot of story here.

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We've got lots of people who've given us little ideas

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and hints about various things.

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We would love people to, if they've got any ideas,

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come and have a look and come and tell us what they think.

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If you're watching and you know what any of this means, let us know.

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Get in contact.

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Hopefully, one day, someone out there

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can unravel the secrets wrapped within the symbols.

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While we're careering around Northamptonshire, Tom has been

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travelling from England to Scotland finding out why one of Britain's

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most beautiful wild animals is becoming a victim of its own success.

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Deer have always been a part of our rural landscape.

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Yet a glimpse of our largest land mammal is still a rare treat

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for many people in the countryside.

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But this secretive temperament hides a population explosion

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and now they're on the move.

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Following in the footsteps of foxes, deer are now spreading further

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and further into our urban areas.

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They can now be found in many of our biggest cities,

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like Bristol, Glasgow, and here in London.

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They're becoming amazingly bold, brazen, even.

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This is the middle of the day and I can get quite close to them

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before they move off.

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They're getting very used to being near humans.

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It's hard to believe these usually timid creatures would want

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to live closer to us.

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To find out what's bringing them to the cities,

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I'm heading into the heart of the countryside.

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Dr Paul Dolman has been studying deer populations in Britain

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for 12 years.

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How have things been changing?

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Well, you can see for all four of these species in the 1970s,

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they were very localised and then in the last three decades,

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they have spread. They've spread throughout much of the country.

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It is a very consistent picture, isn't it?

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Moving out from these small darker areas,

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the lighter colours spreading out across the country.

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What's driving this expansion?

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Firstly, we have no natural predators. We don't have brown bear,

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wolf and lynx in the UK.

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Secondly, we've actually reintroduced the native roe deer

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to England and red deer,

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and we've released these introduced species, but we've released them

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into an environment that's very favourable for them.

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We've doubled the area of woodland in the last century

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through planting and we've got highly nutritious croplands.

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We now have food in the winter in the form of planted winter wheat.

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All of these things have made it more favourable for deer.

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And you can see that with London here.

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They've spread throughout what is the M25 ring.

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Well, particularly for muntjac, fallow and roe deer, yes.

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They are colonising our cities.

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Current estimates suggest there are now two million deer in the UK.

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Such numbers are already damaging the countryside.

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The problem is that hungry deer are eating their way

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through our woodlands, stopping the growth of new trees

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and destroying precious habitats.

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They're even being blamed for sharp declines in woodland birds,

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like the nightingale.

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But as they move into more populated areas, new problems are arising.

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One of the biggest issues is road accidents.

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It's claimed that more than 40,000 collisions are caused by deer

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every year in the UK.

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Scottish Natural Heritage has been keeping

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an eye on the problem in Glasgow.

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-So, why have you brought me here?

-This is really a busy road

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beside the roe deer habitat.

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We've got lots of traffic, lots of deer,

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and the potential for an accident between the two.

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Have you actually had collisions here?

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Certainly on this road and the M8 motorway just over the hill here.

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So for this whole area, it certainly has its fair share of accidents.

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We've also got problems with poaching,

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antisocial behaviour, in terms of killing deer with illegal methods,

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which has welfare implications for the deer.

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We might have damage to woodlands and people's gardens,

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-golf courses, public areas.

-Is it all bad?

-Absolutely not.

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A lot of people love deer, and enjoy seeing deer.

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For people in Glasgow, a roe deer is in all honesty the biggest

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land mammal they'll see right on their doorstep.

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That's a huge benefit to educate people,

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they can see and enjoy nature.

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Unless the population is managed,

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it's likely the number of urban deer will continue to rise.

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That doesn't mean marauding gangs of deer trashing our city streets

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but if something isn't done,

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it could lead to more conflict with us, and more suffering for the deer.

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Later, I'll be asking if we need to take more drastic action now

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to avoid further problems in the future.

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'So much for spring having sprung!

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'It's gone all Arctic in Northamptonshire, too.

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'But I'm about to explore a rather unusual type of farming

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'that should definitely warm the cockles.'

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Gin. Now, that's my kind of farm diversification!

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Just five months ago, Tom Warner and Sion Edwards started harnessing

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the spring water beneath Tom's family farm to make artisan gin.

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From young scamps helping out on their parents' farms,

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these two grew up to be best friends at agricultural college.

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Kindred spirits with a clear vision,

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they are now bezzie mates in a distilling business.

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-Hi, Tom.

-Hi, Julia.

-Cor, bumpy old field you've got me walking across!

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Yeah, they are the parks and gardens of an old mediaeval manor house.

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-Really?

-Yeah, where we are right now is actually the fishponds.

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And this is one of the springs that would have fed the ponds.

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Handy for the gin business.

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Very handy for the gin business, because the water is very important.

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It wasn't always gin for you, though, was it?

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We really wanted to get back to some form of agriculture

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that was more exciting than day-to-day running of the farm

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and that's where this idea came from.

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It originally started around growing crops for essential oils

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and you need to distil those crops to extract the oil from them.

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What can you do with a still for the rest of the year?

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We can make alcohol.

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So we dropped the whole essential oil idea

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and just started focusing on alcohol.

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Who's the brains and who's the brawn in this operation, Tom?

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I think, as I'm here on a freezing cold day bucketing water,

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and Sion's up there in the warm, I think

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I can be the brawn and he's the brains.

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This old stable is now home to a beautiful, hand-made copper still

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that looks like something straight out of a Wallace and Gromit film.

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Into the spring water goes a mix of juniper, cinnamon, cardamom,

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elder from the farm and a whole host of other secret goodies.

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Time for me to get warm and find out how it all works.

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-Hiya, Sion.

-Hello, there.

-She's a beauty, isn't she?

-Absolutely.

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So we've got all the ingredients in here bubbling away,

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looking very appetising.

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Basically, we've mixed alcohol, water and botanicals,

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so things like juniper and things that go into gin,

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and we then have to separate the alcohol out.

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As we heat the pot up, it vapours and condenses,

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which is the distilling, basically.

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And it goes all the way through and comes out as liquid,

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-pure distillate, which is full of flavour and about 89%.

-Wow!

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89%? But that's not how you deliver it

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as a final product, at 89%?

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No, the water that Tom brings from the spring,

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we make sure it's clean, then it's called cutting back.

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We cut back the distillate down to 44%,

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which is what we produce our gin at.

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-A mere 44%?

-Yeah.

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Oh, gosh.

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'Once distilled, it's ready for bottling

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'and these two do everything with their own fair hands.'

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I feel like some sort of techno milkmaid.

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-Yeah, it does look like the back end of a robotic cow, doesn't it?

-Yep.

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-And, remarkably, that will do 500 an hour.

-500 an hour?

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Not with me at the wheel!

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THEY LAUGH

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With the elite bottling crew on it, me and Sion, it can, yeah.

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Where do you sell your gin now?

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Because you've just started, it's a very specialised business

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and you've got a lot of competition.

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We try to target upmarket bars, hotels and restaurants,

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good cocktail bars and independent wine shops around the country.

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And where do you want to be in five years' time? Still doing all of this?

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Because you want to keep it niche, don't you?

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Ultimately, we always want to keep it as an artisan product,

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so everything's done by hand.

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But we also want to bring in more ingredients from the farms,

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using the sloes, the blackberries and the damsons

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from the hedgerows around the farm to make different liquors.

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We were thinking of curing meat as well.

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The smell from the pot, once distillation is over,

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is so fantastic and we think and we could possibly cure meat

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in that distillate, because the smell is so great.

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That would be interesting, wouldn't it?

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All of this is making me thirsty. We need to taste some now.

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I think that's a tremendous idea, Julia,

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-and we've also got a little surprise for you.

-Ooh?

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We've got you your very own label

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-produced for your very own bottle of gin.

-Look at that!

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That is brilliant!

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-Cheers!

-Cheers!

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-It's very flowery.

-It's beautiful gin, yeah.

-It is good gin.

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-What's it like to be working with your best mate, then?

-It's fantastic.

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Best friend for the last 16 years of your life, can't go wrong.

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Have arguments sometimes,

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I have to get stuff from the tall shelves for Sion,

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but no, it's great.

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People say you shouldn't work with your friends, but it works with us.

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Deer are thriving in Britain, and their rapid spread

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could in many ways be celebrated as an ecological success.

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With no natural predators and plenty of suitable habitat,

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deer numbers have been booming.

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And whilst that is a really welcome sight

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while we are out in the countryside,

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when they come very close to our own doorsteps and our own roads,

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that can put real strain on our relationship.

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In Scotland, they are tackling the problem head-on.

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To find out how, I'm up early to visit a chilly woodland

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just outside the town of Kilsyth, near Glasgow.

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Ben Harrower manages the deer numbers in this area.

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What's the plan this morning?

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We're just on the edge of the town here, one of our woodlands.

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We're going to go up this track,

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go up to the back of the hill there,

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onto a sensitive restock site, see if there's any roe deer.

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To keep the deer at a level where human contact is kept

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to a minimum, 12 need to be culled at this site every year.

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And how far are we here from built-up areas?

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Well, you've got a community

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just a few hundred metres down the hill there.

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You've got a large town, just on the road we came in there,

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and on the south-east side as well, so we are surrounded.

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When we are controlling an urban woodland like this,

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we have exclusion zones near the towns and cities

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and we will completely exclude going from that area.

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So you will only stick to the back of the woodlands, the quieter areas.

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The Forestry Commission culls 1,100 roe deer every year

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in lowland Scotland, which is then sold on as venison.

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But with the weather closing in,

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there is little chance of seeing one today.

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I can see it is a tricky job. Why is it worthwhile?

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It seems odd, Tom, but we manage deer for the deer's own welfare.

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You see the negative impacts with the interactions with people,

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so it is for their own welfare

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and to keep a healthy deer population on the ground.

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Here, the approach to dealing with lowland deer has been led

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by experience elsewhere in the country.

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The law in Scotland generally supports the need for culling,

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so even if a landowner was reluctant to see it happening on his land,

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the authorities can make it happen

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if they really think it is necessary.

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But not everyone sees culling as the best option.

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Across the border in England, some of the responsibility

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for managing the animals falls on local councils.

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Rather than shooting the deer, some go out of their way to protect them.

0:19:590:20:04

We are right on the edge of the M25. Why have you brought me here?

0:20:040:20:09

I've brought you here

0:20:090:20:10

because this is a tunnel specifically built

0:20:100:20:12

to allow deer to come underneath it,

0:20:120:20:14

so the herds can move.

0:20:140:20:15

And when the M25 was widened a few years ago,

0:20:150:20:18

I lobbied and campaigned to make sure these tunnels remained.

0:20:180:20:22

In the London Borough of Havering, Andrew Curtin has worked hard

0:20:230:20:27

to safeguard both deer and drivers.

0:20:270:20:30

But despite his best efforts, it has been claimed that this borough

0:20:300:20:34

still has the highest number

0:20:340:20:35

of deer-related accidents in the capital.

0:20:350:20:38

But why not control the numbers by shooting some?

0:20:380:20:41

Well, sometimes it is necessary, to control the numbers.

0:20:410:20:44

But we think there are more effective ways of doing that,

0:20:440:20:46

so not using culling, because that isn't our policy at all.

0:20:460:20:49

Whilst some are against culling, on the grounds that it is inefficient

0:20:500:20:54

or even inhumane, for Andrew, there is an even more practical problem.

0:20:540:20:58

There is no point in us doing something drastic

0:20:580:21:02

and then more deer just coming over the border from Essex.

0:21:020:21:04

If there is going to be a response, it needs to be

0:21:040:21:06

across the whole region, the Government needs to consult on it

0:21:060:21:09

and we respond to that and look at the measures being proposed.

0:21:090:21:12

In England, large numbers of deer are already shot,

0:21:160:21:20

around 100,000 every year.

0:21:200:21:22

The Government have been advised

0:21:250:21:27

that up to a quarter of the nation's deer should be culled,

0:21:270:21:30

but when it was suggested that that figure increase to 50%,

0:21:300:21:34

the press splashed the story.

0:21:340:21:36

The headlines were prompted by research

0:21:390:21:41

overseen by Dr Paul Dolman, who we met earlier.

0:21:410:21:44

But he is uneasy with the reaction.

0:21:440:21:47

This is not something that I would be comfortable with

0:21:470:21:51

being attributed to me.

0:21:510:21:53

Paul claims his findings have been widely misinterpreted.

0:21:540:21:57

Although he does think we need to cull more, he says that first,

0:21:570:22:02

we must get a clearer picture of our deer population.

0:22:020:22:05

We don't know how many deer there are in the UK.

0:22:050:22:08

You can see estimates of around 1.5 million or more.

0:22:080:22:12

But this is complex, this is six different species,

0:22:120:22:16

and every species of deer has to be taken on a case-by-case basis.

0:22:160:22:21

And every region of the country has to be taken individually.

0:22:210:22:24

Believing current estimates on deer numbers are wildly inaccurate,

0:22:240:22:29

Paul and his team have been running a thermal imaging study

0:22:290:22:32

in Thetford Forest, giving me the chance to see some deer in the wild.

0:22:320:22:37

They are going to come across the road now.

0:22:370:22:40

Wow, look at them in the sunshine!

0:22:400:22:42

What it's told us is that there are many more deer here than we thought

0:22:420:22:46

and that the deer management has completely underestimated

0:22:460:22:51

the number of deer here.

0:22:510:22:52

So although this is a highly managed forest,

0:22:520:22:56

there are nearly 1,500 muntjac and roe deer shot each year

0:22:560:23:00

in the area we were studying. What we have shown

0:23:000:23:03

is that that is not keeping a lid on the population

0:23:030:23:06

and that there are another 2,000 muntjac and roe spreading out

0:23:060:23:10

into the wider countryside every year,

0:23:100:23:12

fuelling the increase in deer numbers.

0:23:120:23:14

For Paul, until we have an accurate figure across the whole country,

0:23:160:23:20

it is impossible to say exactly how many deer we actually need to cull.

0:23:200:23:24

But it is likely to be far greater than the current

0:23:240:23:27

recommendation of one quarter.

0:23:270:23:30

So, the question for our society is, are we prepared to kill more?

0:23:300:23:35

If the answer is no,

0:23:350:23:37

we may enjoy the thrill of more regular sightings,

0:23:370:23:40

but also endure the peril of more regular friction between us.

0:23:400:23:45

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